Write-Up: Replacing Supercharger Belt Tensioner

Ordered a new one. Still squeaking after replacing the smooth and grooved pulleys (smooth one was rough upon spinning anyways, and I got a 3.5" grooved instead of a 3" because of the smaller SC pulley). $3.99 one day shipping through Amazon woooooooooo.

Alright, I got mine in (Gates) and I have some things to say.

The Gates tensioner was the cheapest one I could find with a name that I trusted.

The grooved pulley that comes with it is made of plastic. I ripped it off later on down the road and replaced it with a 3.5" metal grooved to make up for the smaller SC pulley.

There are washers between the bolts and the pulleys on this model. DO NOT USE THEM. Take your old bolts from your old tensioner and re-use them. The reason behind this is that if you have the bolt tight, the washer restricts the pulley and will not allow it to spin freely (or at all, really). If you have it loose enough for the pulley to spin freely, the bolt can be undone by hand and will cause either the pulley or the belt to fall off (the latter happened to me).

All of this being said, I should have probably spent the extra cash and got the Delco tensioner. This one is working great with the old bolts though, so I'll just leave it be.

Check the image:

I need to replace #9 for sure and #3 while I am in it... anyone know how to get #9 out from behind the engine mount?

Yes, you have to take it all apart,

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t725-write-up-replacing-belts-and-pulleys

Idle pulley assemblies and belts comes to $298 at Discount Auto... not exactly a cheap fix.

Try rockauto, you can probably save 100.00.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1999,riviera,3.8l+v6+supercharged,1352843,belt+drive,belt+tensioner,11659

Dagwood(TSRW) wrote:

Idle pulley assemblies and belts comes to $298 at Discount Auto... not exactly a cheap fix.

**easily** save $100 by buying from RockAuto dep on where you live. Tensioner assemblies plus belts for my 98, Continental Gatorback belts and Continental tensioners totalled $170.56 shipped to me in zip 14870. And would have been ~less had I not forgotten to snag the latest shared discount code off this site.

the torx head retention bolt seized up on the 3.5" smooth idle pulley behind the engine mount bracket. it snapped off... how do I get that snout out so I can take it to a machine shop?

At this point, I am about to junk this thing...

Also; I strongly recommend staying away from RockAuto.com. I have gone through nightmares trying to return bad product from them. They will refuse to accept warranty returns and claim "you did not properly ship the return" and then refuse to pay or only offer to the core charge. I had to involve my bank to get my funds returned. It is not just me... look up rock auto warranty return problems on the web and watch the horror stories roll.... Their business ethics are highly questionable.

Dagwood(TSRW) wrote:

Also; I strongly recommend staying away from RockAuto.com. I have gone through nightmares trying to return bad product from them. They will refuse to accept warranty returns and claim "you did not properly ship the return" and then refuse to pay or only offer to the core charge. I had to involve my bank to get my funds returned. It is not just me... look up rock auto warranty return problems on the web and watch the horror stories roll.... Their business ethics are highly questionable.

I can't explain that. All of my dealings with them have been exceptional. I have returned parts a few times with no problems at all.

Dagwood(TSRW) wrote:

Also; I strongly recommend staying away from RockAuto.com. I have gone through nightmares trying to return bad product from them. They will refuse to accept warranty returns and claim "you did not properly ship the return" and then refuse to pay or only offer to  the core charge. I had to involve my bank to get my funds returned. It is not just me... look up rock auto warranty return problems on the web and watch the horror stories roll.... Their business ethics are highly questionable.

As for that bolt, isn't it reverse threaded? I don't remember. If not, then drill/easyout. If so, drill to remove then tap/helicoil I guess. Either way you'll need to support the engine and remove the bracket. A piece of 2x4 under the boss on the bottom of the engine (you'll need to look for it, don't use the oil pan) so you can support it with a floor jack then just take off the bracket. http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/GM-Pontiac-Grand-Prix-Idler-and-Tensioner-Pulley-Replacement-Guide/

As for RockAuto, One time I returned an alternator core, never did get my refund. I had a problem with mirrors I'd ordered, they were really helpful. I surmised it really had to do with which supplier the actually had for the item (RockAuto, IIRC, does not stock parts).

I am finding the only way to remove that bolt it to either drill through the wheel well, easy out if possible, helicoil if not, or disassemble the engine peripherals down to the block and replace. Both options are gonna be less than pleasant.

"... I surmised it really had to do with which supplier the actually had for the item..."

Totally Immaterial. As consumers, we deal directly with Rock Auto. Their obligations to us is primary and must be met according to consumer protection laws. That they shove off issues to the consumer based upon their supplier problems is wrong and shows poor ethical judgement as they would rather do what's best for Rock Auto than what's best for their customer. Buy at your own risk...

Dagwood(TSRW) wrote:

I am finding the only way to remove that bolt it to either drill through the wheel well, easy out if possible, helicoil if not, or disassemble the engine peripherals down to the block and replace. Both options are gonna be less than pleasant.

"... I surmised it really had to do with which supplier they actually had for the item..."

Totally Immaterial. As consumers, we deal directly with Rock Auto. Their obligations to us is primary and must be met according to consumer protection laws. That they shove off issues to the consumer based upon their supplier problems is wrong and shows poor ethical judgement as they would rather do what's best for Rock Auto than what's best for their customer. Buy at your own risk...

Suit yourself, and in your copious spare time have a look at the Uniform Commercial Code as regards mail order transactions, and the terms and conditions posted on RockAuto's website. Rock's stated terms are fairly narrow.  That said, you're right to take your business elsewhere.

I'm having a hard time figuring out which "Torx" bolt you guys are talking about. There isn't a single Torx head bolt in the block. The only Torx bolts are the ones that hold the pulley to the tensioner itself.

That 3.5" idler pulley for the supercharger mounting bolt behind the engine mount bracket is the one that snapped. It is a normal right hand thread that requires a T50 torx socket to remove. The cheap plastic replacement installed by the previous owner literally melted into the bearing causing it to seize, heating the bolt to until it was weakened by the heat. It snapped with minimum effort applied. It took a bearing puller to get the bearing off the pulley mounting bracket.

The studs that hold the pulley brackets and engine mount brackets onto the block have a torx head on them which require an external torx socket (E10 I think) to remove/install them.

Ok. So it's the actual bolt that holds the pulley on. I knew about the E-Torx stud. I've had to remove that a few times.

Dagwood(TSRW) wrote:

That 3.5" idler pulley for the supercharger mounting bolt behind the engine mount bracket is the one that snapped.  It is a normal right hand thread that requires a T50 torx socket to remove. The cheap plastic replacement installed by the previous owner literally melted into the bearing causing it to seize, heating the bolt to until it was weakened by the heat. It snapped with minimum effort applied. It took a bearing puller to get the bearing off the pulley mounting bracket.

The studs that hold the pulley brackets and engine mount brackets onto the block have a torx head on them which require an external torx socket (E10 I think) to remove/install them.

I feel for you, Dagwood. Even without seizing up it's a time sink to do the R&R.

Albertj

The worst part is having to R&R twice... needed the car to get me to work this week so I had to put it all back together and I am running without the Supercharger. Next weekend it all comes back apart again...