Sweet, time for car work :)

Besides working on the Riv on my lunch times this week, tonight I got a couple hours or so of babysitting out of my 10yr old girl and her friend, taking care of my 3 yr old boy.

I took advantage of the opportunity to get the SC oil drained, the snout removed, cleaned out the old oil residues, and install my new ZZP coupler. No real issues to note, all went smoothly. I went very light on the RTV when I put it back together, but still had some excess squeeze out when I tightened it all down. I'm letting it set up til noon tomorrow before I refill with GM fluid. The snout sure feels nice and tight now!

One thing that caught my eye, is how LITTLE you would have to be low on fluid, for the fluid to not reach the bottom of the coupler. Not a good situation... be sure you are filled up to the bottom of the threads in the fill hole.

So, SC snout is back on, and will be filled tomorrow. Next up of course is pulling the motor mount so I can change both belts and that bastard lower SC idler pulley. It looks like crap, really, has to go. Then the Plog and crossover. hehehe But if I want to keep up the noon thing, I'll have to start driving my 68 to work on Monday, as my wife will be back from Hungary and need the van that I've been driving this week with the Riv laid up. But the 68 needs brakes...

Go Dave Go!
You sir are a busy man.

Glad you got the 68 out of storage and can enjoy it for a while.

Bert

I wasn't planning on driving it at all until I got the brakes finished up, but the Riv work has to come first, as my DD.

Noon tomorrow I'm hoping to be done with the SC work and have the motor mount off before I head back to work. Can't work on it tomorrow night, with soccer practice on the schedule. I suspect the Plog/crossover will have to be put off for now, or maybe I can squeeze it in this weekend. I've got everything sprayed with PB Blaster already.

Wkat kind of RTV did you use to seal the supercharger back up with? Also how much oil was left in the snout after you drained it? I was thinking about taking my supercharger apart and cleaning up the inlet and outlet when I change my LIM gasket.

I only had blue RTV here so I went with it. There was some kind of yellowish stuff on the mating surfaces that I scraped off first. Kind of looked like dried Gascacinch.

I got very close to 8oz out of the SC before I opened it up, so there wasn't a LOT of it remaining, but enough that it was a good thing I laid out several layers of paper shop towels under the snout and pushed it back in there with a long screwdriver, to catch it. Doesn't really catch it, but keeps it from running all over the place. I had to do some cleanup, but not real bad. There may have been an ounce, but it was only a year old fluid, not nearly as pungent as the OLD stuff I drained last year.

There was lots of black buildup on the inside surfaces, that cleans up pretty well with a can of brake cleaner, and a little wiping. If you're changing the coupler, the ZZP piece goes on a little hard, especially putting the snout back on.

Supposedly the gasket goop they use is available at dealers in super small tubes. It's called "red gasket maker". The tolerances are so tight that you could probably run w/o sealant and not have an issue.

Glad to hear you are making it happen.

This your first time changing the belts/pulley? One trick I use is getting the E torx bits to pull the studs. That way the mount comes out easier w/o having to come over the end of the studs. (E torx are the reverse bit to a Torx bit.)

SHOOT....... i didnt use ANY sealer , when i bolted the snount to the case up!........... am i dead meat?

I didn't use anything to seal my snout when I changed my coupler a year ago. Still holding the SC oil I put in back then.

AA wrote:

I didn't use anything to seal my snout when I changed my coupler a year ago. Still holding the SC oil I put in back then.

ooofta!

Bill is right, sealer isn't mandatory, but a very small amount is cheap insurance.

Bill, I've previously changed all the pulleys except the lower idler pulley. First time with the belts on this car. Thanks for the tip on the E torx bits, don't think I have a set.

I've used 6-point sockets on E-Torx studs before with good results.

Jack's write-up is certainly convenient on my laptop in the garage while working on this. Though I mistook the "loosen but do not remove" notation regarding the 2 lower bolts on the mount, to mean "remove later..." haha. Almost took them all the way out as last step, then realized the mount has slotted holes there... DOH!

Got stuck at the bottom stud on the engine bracket though. My deep metric socket set does not include an 18mm, just skips it. So I picked one up coming back to work along with an E torx socket set. $$$ Maybe will get back at it tonight.

Having an inverted torx set is handy anyway... I've never heard the term Etorx before though, is that what they are really called? E for what? Emulsified? Exhausting? Extra pain in the ass?

E for external. It doesn't say that on the package either. They're just torx sockets instead of bits, that's all. Says sockets on the label.

Correction: It DOES say External Torx on the package in small print, but just refers to it as a socket set in the larger labeling.

I prefer to have the right tools for a job as well, so these will come in handy.

hows the engine mount rollin along?

The mount came out no problem and the bracket is loose as of last night. Have tried a Gates 38001 and a Ford equivalent pulley for the lower SC idler, but both seem kind of loose once tightened up. Not a LOT, just doesn't seem they should be that way AT ALL. So my reassembly is delayed a bit, going to try to pick up a Dayco 89006 at noon today and try that out. The old pulley had no wobble at all, so I don't want to rush to throw this back together w/o trying an alternative to Gates and Ford.

BTW, daycoproducts.com has a very nice interchange function to see other mfgr's equivalents.

The Dayco 89006 worked great, but I think the issue was some sealant residues on the shoulder of the mounting bolt. Cleaned it up and no wobble at all. Will keep the others for spares or upper idler replacement.

Got the engine bracket's 3 mounting bolts started in again after slipping in the belts, and should be able to finish things up this weekend. Should run the alternator to Advance Auto for a quick test tomorrow though. And the PS pump hoses seem to be showing a slight leak.... aaarrrggghhhh. Hope I can get to the Plog and crossover too.

Finished!

Took a couple hours this morning and got it done. No leftover parts, no parts missing. Ran the alternator to NAPA, they tested twice and failed both times... None in stock though. I'm skeptical, and run it to Advance Auto, where it passes with a reading of just over 15 volts. NAPA's equip doesn't give an actual figure, he said it comes up bad if under 14 volts. So I slapped it back on and quit worrying about it.

Bad news, I have a full tank of 87, so swapped on my 3.8 mps for the week to come. Runs great, everything looks good, and that annoying rattle is completely gone. Sure is nice to have the boost back after what, 3 months without???

Good news, Dave. Glad you got everything to work. If the alternator does decide to fail later on, the good part is you will be able to replace in an hour or less. Gotta love the old school alternator placement on top of the engine.

Thanks for posting all the info, it might help some of us in the future.

Bert

Yeah, the alt is a breeze. But I was disappointed that my 2 closest parts stores did not have a replacement in stock, and neither carry Delco-Remy units at all. I'll have to figure out a source that wouldn't take 2 days to get here if the need arises. I wonder how long my reman alt has been on... I'd have guessed it would have been the original unit, not a repl.