Valve cover gasket replacement - advice?

I'm fairly certain that my rear valve cover gasket is leaking a little bit. I changed the oil pan gasket a while ago, but the oil was coming from above that. It's not weeping enough oil for it to even drip, thinks are just a little wet down there. I changed the front valve cover gasket no problem, but that was also a while ago.

I took a look at this thread: Possible Valve Cover Replacement

Dave mentions a new valve cover gasket for the front that is available.

What is this new (better?) gasket? Is it the Felpro that he mentioned? Dave, would you like to chime in on this?

I also need some advice on how to go about changing this gasket myself. The front's a no-brainer. The rear is what concerns me. I don't really want to pay some jackass the 50 bucks or whatever to fix this, and I've got free time.

What all needs to be removed to get back there? Or is it one of those things where you can feel around and take it apart like that?

I'm not really scared to do the job, but I'm not going into it blind. I'm sick of this problem, and even if it's not the rear valve cover gasket, I don't care - at least it'll be done and I tried to save some money.

I do already have a replacement gasket for the rear, but like I mentioned before - I want a quality replacement part in there if I'm only gonna do this once.

I just finished replacing mine. I had the top of the engine off, so I am not too sure what needs to be removed. You need to move the wires out of the way. I think you have to remove the alternator and associated bracket that is attached to the supercharger. Once you start, you should be able to see what needs to be done. You will have to loosen the bolts on the little mount that curves up that holds the engine cover on. I would check AA's write up he did when he changed his rockers. I can't remember if he went into much detail with the removal of the valve covers, but it might help. Also make sure that the new gaskets are in good shape. I don't know if it happened during instal or if the gasket was bad, but my front gasket had ripped in half. I was a few miles away from home and I noticed smoke coming from the engine. I pulled over and let it cool for a little bit and drove a little bit until I could see smoke. It started to smoke pretty good when I got closer to home. It was definately a bad experience.

EDIT: Here is AA's link http://rivfaq.bravehost.com/rockers.htm.

i found that its better to use 1/4 " sockets and a swivel for the back( at least on my 95) there is a whole lot of stuff in the way that you are better off loosening and pushing out of the way......over all its not a big job,just requiers patience......

Ben, last I checked with the dealer, the new gaskets were not in stock yet, but that was a couple months ago. I also do not know what they sell for, or if you could even buy a set. They are likely to be held in reserve at first, for recall work on the W-body cars. That was a comment from the dealer parts mgr at the time. I've since purchased a Fel-Pro set from NAPA, and they look like excellent quality parts, in fact I think someone else commented they are probably better than what GM is supplying. After the fact, I found the Fel-Pro set is $20 cheaper from RockAuto.com ... BTW, haven't installed mine yet.

I used the OEM gaskets - sealed up very well. Should be able to order for less at GM parts direct. From dealership mine were $60.

I used Fel Pro and have had great experience with them.

To do the rear (Do you guys have the alt bracket that covers the VC like GP's?)
Disconnect battery
Remove Alt
Remove support bracket from alt to SC
Remove map rail and EGR shield.
Loosen or remove center bracket for engine cover/O2 connector holder.

At this point you should be able to get at the rear cover easily except the wiring harness will be in the way a bit. A helper is great when dealing with the harness.

I with new gaskets, I used a bit of clear RTV all around. Probibly not needed, but it should never leak.

Front took about twenty minutes. Back took about two hours. I know I'm not a mechanic but not too bad for a rookie! Few bloody knuckles and one broken clip that holds that monster wiring harness! Not a bad job and it needed to be done badly. It was leaking pretty bad. Just turned 100,000 and it seems like she's breaking down in all the very expensive areas. Bearings, Mufflers, Tensioner pulleys and such. Oh well, I love her and will keep fixing as I go! Nothing too difficult about the gasket replacement other than being patient and careful. Good to have someone there to hold the harness up while extracting the rear cover and putting it back.

Not Bad! It can be tricky to get the rear cover off cleanly...

Good work!

Do you know or does anyone know where I can get new valve cover gaskets from. Does the dealership sell them ? or do they just charge an arm and a leg for them .Also looking to get new Valve covers, metel, steel something other then what came with the car. I hear that they tend to leak and warp. I would like to get new ones and replace the gaskets to. I want to replace the intake gaskets as well. One more thing the supercharger outlet gasket, does the dealer carry these? IF someone could let meknow where i can get these items for a good price Id apreciate it alot. Im int the process of waiting for a coupler to come in to replace that on the supercharge as well and want to do everything at once.

The gaskets are about $14 ea from GMpartsDirect.com. I don't know why you'd change from the plastic covers that come with the engine, unless you just like the idea of having metal. I haven't seen any excessive leaking or warping from the plastic OEM covers.

I changed the gaskets one time, They're a pretty good design, better than any other cars I've worked on.

I have never seen or heard of one of these valve covers warping. Gaskets do need to be installed carefully. The gasket can fall out, but you are not supposed to put any RTV on them. I put a little glob of bearing grease into the slot in the valve cover in about 5 places (not all the way around, just little dabs), then mush the gasket into the grease. The grease squishes itself out of the way when you tighten the valve cover (don't overtighten!). It's a really easy job.

FelPro VC gaskets are the same quality as the OEM ones, but you can get OE pricing from monsterpartsonline.com for a competitive price on the GM part. VC gaskets are really not a big deal to do.

Sorry to resurrect  an old thread (I've seen worse though so I feel fine with it) - anyone know the torque specs for the valve cover bolts? Just want to make sure I'm as close as can be...

And I know, I know... I need the Factory Service Manuals. One day  

ZEP wrote:

Sorry to resurrect  an old thread (I've seen worse though so I feel fine with it) - anyone know the torque specs for the valve cover bolts? Just want to make sure I'm as close as can be...

And I know, I know... I need the Factory Service Manuals. One day  

10nM or 89 lb/in

Thanks Scott. I haven't messed with the valve cover for years but I got it off a little while ago, inspected the underside and found that one of the areas that curves around an injector was cracked and a chunk of the valve cover material fell off when I touched it...





As compared to the other side which is totally intact... only has one small hairline crack in it:


Does anyone think the chunk missing would affect the gasket seal, performance, pressure, oil leakage, etc.? I'm prepped to put in a new gasket and new screw grommets

I think it needs replaced. That's just asking for a leak right there. Good opportunity to clean up or paint a fresh set of covers!

Okay thanks AA Sometimes I just need that second Riv owner opinion. The reason I took the front cover off is because it was leaking and that missing chunk probably had something to do with it.

Off to GM Parts Direct!!

How the hell do you remove that little two-piece plastic plugwire guide on the front edge of the valve cover. Feels like it clips on but does it lift up or pull forward? I need to replace my front gasket but fear of snapping brittle plastic is in my way.

Lookin at the above black replacements Zach has, does it just slide onto those little flat slots?

Honestly, can't figure this out. I and previous owner never routed the plug wires through it. I looked at the ones on the lesabre and reattas and they just slide up and off super smooth and easy. If I didn't know better I'd say the one on my riv is bolted on

Pulls straight up and out away from the cover, in the direction of "V".

 I'll give er another go tomorrow if the temp gets above 20 haha Not sure why it's bein so stubborn

Cold plastic doesn't like to flex. It wants to break instead - try heating it up - like right after you shut off the engine following a trip.

^why I stopped before trying to force anything today. I'll give it a shot tomorrow n report back. Thanks for the info

welp, several days later and many friends having helped me try to remove the stupid thing and its painfully clear that it's not going to be coming off. It's unclear why it's stuck on but obvious it's not moving. So...either have my local mech give it a shot or just trash the thing to remove it and go without

Here's what the mechanic will do: remove the ignition wires from the bottom side of the plastic holder, then with a couple of gloved hands, pull UP on the holder. Grab it near where the semi-circles are.

Mine has never to my knowledge had the wires run through it. I've leveraged myself time again and had some very tree-like friends of mine lift up on it and it won't come. In fact, it begins to lift on the front suspension before giving any signs of releasing ...

Sometimes you can get a little pick in there and release the tabs while pulling.

It's possible that's it's just part of the stud now though. I suppose years of hot/cold will meld the plastic into the threads. I don't have any of those laying around....