any power problems? maybe the battery is going bad, or the starter...
SuperRiv07 Addict
Name : Nick Age : 40 Location : Brookfield, And If everything goes right A Nice big house in Bolingbrook with a big GARAGE Joined : 2008-07-20Post Count : 706 Merit : 0
any power problems? maybe the battery is going bad, or the starter...
i dont think its the starter or the battery coz it sometimes kinda loses power even when its running, u could notice the interior lights lowering. ill change the battery and then see what happens. I also have this problem that it sometimes doesnt let me go over 2000 RPM even if i press the gas pedal all the way, then if u dont let go of it, the whole car starts to shake. when u brake down to 50kmph it goes away, happens on a highway very often... what could it be?
1wickedninja Addict
Name : Josh Age : 36 Location : port saint lucie, Fl Joined : 2008-07-30Post Count : 647 Merit : 5
Is the 'check engine' light on? IF so at least pull the codes. If not, check the crank sensor. When they start going bad they will not give a consistent signal to the ECU (engine control computer). WHen the signal fails, the engine dies, RPMs slow and unless you have brand new fully charged battery your lights dim.
You may want to locate (not purchase) a battery. It is under the rear seat, remove the rear seat cushion and inspect the battery terminals for fit and corrosion. Be absolutely sure, while you're in there, that the battery vent tube is connected to the battery and to the grommet thru the floor for venting. If there is corrosion in the battery area, this would be a good time to clean it up with sodium bicarbonate in water and a little detergent, and then repaint.
Also while you are at it check for silly stuff, like the alternator belt being loose because the tensioner is failing; check to see that the ground strap by the front passenger side motor mount is OK (it is often corroded in a RIv this age and so you may end up drilling it out and installing a stud and bolts yourself);
The big hint for me is that it won't behave sometimes over 50km/hr; that is "limp home" mode and menas you have I think a crank or cam sensor that isn't operating consistently. In that case if the car is running it won't go very fast and if it is not already running it will not start. There is more about that in the factory service manual.
Do some more investigation please and tell us some more.
I checked the alternator's belt its not loose, everything seems OK in one look, I'm not really familiar with this car, don't know what a lot of things are under the hood. I fixed the battery vent tube, it was broken. There is no corrosion yet, but needs some good cleaning coz I think its starting to rust. So I think I'm gonna need new crank and cam sensors shipped. Is replacing them an easy job to do? Could I do it on my own?
here's the broken battery vent:
I took a pen's tube and the vent tube, then melted the the two together and it was as good as new
SuperRiv07 Addict
Name : Nick Age : 40 Location : Brookfield, And If everything goes right A Nice big house in Bolingbrook with a big GARAGE Joined : 2008-07-20Post Count : 706 Merit : 0
OK I watched the video. This will take a whoe but is all fixable, I think.
First thing, the battery. Many if not most repari garages can check your battery. The check is to use a hygrometer to take some fluid from the cells to see what the quality of the charge is. I bet you have at least one bad cell, or the baterry is discharged. It is not run down too bad or else you would not be able to start the car at all - but the goofy thing with the Riv is that if the battery's charge is low, the electronics fail in interesting ways. I think that is why the battery is so big. You can get a hygrometer yourself from a car parts store, then pry off the battery cell covers and test it yourself. The hygrometer will come with instructions.
By the way, you can slow down the discharge of the battery by turning the twilight sentinel switch to the 'minimum' limit. To do this slide it all the way to the left. It will bounce back a little, tha's OK just leave it.
Regarding the area where the battery is - that is CRITICAL. You really need to remove the battery, clean off the rust from the top and the bottom with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) so as to neutralize the acid, then when it is dry you must repaint it with a rust-resistant paint (rust resistant primer and a finish paint to match the car is OK) and reinstall the batter with the clip and bolt that hold it down as well as the vent. The reason for the rust is the battery does vent and if thelittle pipes are not connected the venting causes rust. You must fix it now or it will rust out very, very quickly.
With a good battery in place the next thing I think you should do is check the main engine ground wire, which is on a frame rail just in front of the motor mount. You may need to spray it with penetrating oil from underneath to loosen the bolt. When I tried to remove mine for cleaning I ended up breaking it - so I drilled out the remains and installed a stainless steel bolt that I made up by buying a larger and longer stainless steel bolt and a couple nuts, cutting the head of the bolt with a Dremel Moto-Tool, tapping the frame rail to fit the new bolt (it was only bigger by 1 mm) and then fitting the new bolt to the frame, then the ground wire to the new bolt with the new nuts.
Now look at your electrical system to see if there are any splices. The engine computer is supposed to control the throttle for cold starts so you should not have to touch the gas pedal at all. So I am thinking that you need to see if there are any wires that seem patched togehter; I doubt it though.
Next, we need to start working on sensors. Answer the above and I will tell you some more.
Albertj - Thank's a lot, I really appreciate it. I'll get with the cleaning as soon as possible. And what about the sensors, do I need to purchase crank and cam sensors or is there a way to fix them?
albertj Master
Name : Location : Finger Lakes of New York State Joined : 2007-05-31Post Count : 8687 Merit : 181
They have to be purchased but are not that expensive. Try the USA web site:
http://www.rockauto.com
to find part numbers and brand names for the sensors. Then you may be able to source them locally, as there's more than one Holden, Vauxhall, or Opel that will use the same sensors.
As for replacing them the crank sensor requires that you remove the harmonic balancer. Not sure about cam sensor. If you are experienced at this, great. If not, any good mechanic with some knowledge of the General Motors 3800cc V-6 engine should be able to deal with this. Let me know, you can post or send me a PM (private message) on this board.
Albertj
RIVIERASC95 Amateur
Joined : 2008-09-15Post Count : 28 Merit : 0
Subject: Re: Vato's 95 Riv Fri Oct 03, 2008 3:08 am
after fixing the vent in the battery, im not having any problems starting the car, it starts great. Though when i stop at the lights i can feel something smells real bad and i think its coming from the vent, is that normal? And i still have that acceleration problem, I will try to get an opel's crank sensor if its the same and replace it. I will let you know if this works. Thanx alot Albert
albertj Master
Name : Location : Finger Lakes of New York State Joined : 2007-05-31Post Count : 8687 Merit : 181
Well... remove the rear seat again. I think you should look for the following:
1) that the pen you used to fix the tube did not break somehow. Maybe it got weak from the acid fumes and came off again. You should consider getting plastic tubing of appropriate size for the repair. One way to do this might be to visit a junkyard (I think the British call them Wreckers) to get the tubing from another car such as Volkswagen that have batteries that are vented through floor. You can then use the other car's tubing to repair yours. You may also simply be able to get appropriate tubing from a hardware store. Vinyl tubing will work although it will discolor with age and exposure to acid. Nylon tubing used for fuel will work.
2) no kidding you need to get the battery tested - that is, to take off the caps, make sure there is enough distilled water in the cells, and use a hygrometer to measure the charge in each cell.
3) with the rear seat removed, be sure you do not have some metal of any sort hitting the wiring under the seat. There are fuses and relays under the seat.
4) that the battery terminals are clean and tight. Take the cables off and clean the terminals and battery posts with wire brush or maybe an emery board. Most likely your starting got better not because of the venting but rather because you moved the terminals.
With those taken care of - there is also a chance the smell you have is coming from under the hood not under the seat. The power to the engine and such comes into the engine compartment via a battery cable that comes up around the passenger side of the firewall and goes to a terminal block that is in front of (nearer the headlights) the windshield washer fluid container, near one of the engine mounts. That terminal block should be in small plastic box with red printing stamped on it. In front of that is a negative terminal post with a cable to the starter and other places. The point is to check both of those to make sure they are clean and the contacts are good. Be careful with the negative post, at the age of your car they often break when you try to take them apart for cleaning. Easy to replace (just need a tap to make threads for a new bolt, and install the new one) but a pain in the butt (awkward location to fix). Other things to look for under the hood: leaking fuel lines, chafed wiring, problems with rotating parts (alternator, PS pump, A/C, idler pulleys), the valve covers or the intake manifold (could be leaking oil or antifreeze onto hot exhaust manifold). But I am just guessing because you did not descibe the smell.
Another source of smell couldbe you have a brake dragging.
ok ill get another tube. the contacts are clean and in a good shape. its just the battery doesnt have distilled water in it, they told me it was a dry one (not sure if im saying it right) anyways im gonna recharge the battery tomorrow and change the tube (coz i cant find a new one that has terminals from the side like this one) ill let u know if the smell stays after the tube changing so i can check all that other stuff. thanx again albert
albertj Master
Name : Location : Finger Lakes of New York State Joined : 2007-05-31Post Count : 8687 Merit : 181
The car is from the US - we could confirm the identity ofhte battery.
As far as I know, there's no dry battery specified for the Riviera. If your battery has a vent, it is a wet cell - however, it is sealed. If I remember right you have to peel up the label to unseal it and check the cells. Also - the original Delco batteries have an "eye" - that is they have a built-in hygrometer. The eye shows green when the battery has an OK charge.
hope you can post that picture.
Albertj
You may decide that you want a new battery, it may be that an Opel dealer can help you get one.
RIVIERASC95 Amateur
Joined : 2008-09-15Post Count : 28 Merit : 0
Subject: Re: Vato's 95 Riv Sun Oct 05, 2008 4:05 pm
Ok, so i changed the battery and the smell is gone and it starts great too. The one i got is 74amp, is that ok? I mean the guy at the shop said it was ok and i didnt really have a big choice (coz of the reversed)
albertj Master
Name : Location : Finger Lakes of New York State Joined : 2007-05-31Post Count : 8687 Merit : 181
Subject: Re: Vato's 95 Riv Sun Oct 05, 2008 10:13 pm
The only thing is that the battery MUST be vented outside of the car. So if you got tubes from the battery connected outside the car, great. If not, you got very big problems coming.
Riviera battery is supposed to have 900+ cold cranking amps. I think because of the accessories, the delayed-off lighting, and the amount of elecrical things that are actually on when the car is supposedly off.
Did you clean the battery tray out with sodium bicarbonate (baking soda)? I think you call it carbonat neutru de sodiu (cristalizat). No kidding as soon as possible you need to clean out the area under the seat where the old battery was, and neutralize that acid, and repaint the thing or really, you will have a big hole in the car where the acid ate away the paint. This is real important, don't delay. Take battery out, spread a thin layer of carbonat on the metal, dip a brush or sponge in water then scrub and it will make bubbles, scrub until it stops bubbling, then rinse out with clean water - and repeat until the carbonat neutru de sodiu no longer makes foam when the water and fresh carbonat is added (it will take 4 or 5 repeats maybe).
here are some part numbers you may need. If you can't get to Opel dealer try Saab, they are now part of General Motors. Come to think of it - there are Chevrolet dealers in Romania too - probably with the part numbers (below) they will be able to get for you the parts you need.
battery tray - 25694615 battery retainer (a little metal bar , bolts to floor and holds battery at bottom edge, if your battery was leaking you maybe want to replace this one) - 25558374 screw for retainer - Metric hex head M8x1.25x40, grade 9.8 battery vent tubing - 25678807 battery (from AC DELCO catalog) "79-6YR" (this battery exceeds 100A-Hr) BAsically you want a "group 79" battery with 880 CCA or better. This will be something like a 120 - 140 A-Hr battery
Good luck and let us know what you do next.
Albertj
Last edited by albertj on Sat Oct 18, 2008 4:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
RIVIERASC95 Amateur
Joined : 2008-09-15Post Count : 28 Merit : 0
Subject: Re: Vato's 95 Riv Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:15 am
could you give me the codes for cam and crank sensors?
albertj Master
Name : Location : Finger Lakes of New York State Joined : 2007-05-31Post Count : 8687 Merit : 181
Subject: Re: Vato's 95 Riv Sat Oct 18, 2008 4:58 pm
You mean the part numbers?
10456148 and 10456161.
Albertj
RIVIERASC95 Amateur
Joined : 2008-09-15Post Count : 28 Merit : 0
Subject: Re: Vato's 95 Riv Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:55 am
yes i meant the part numbers, thanx
one more question, my car gives me really bad fuel economy, around 12-13mpg in the city, is that normal for a Riv??
deekster_caddy Master
Name : Derek Age : 52 Location : Reading, MA Joined : 2007-01-31Post Count : 7717 Merit : 109
one more question, my car gives me really bad fuel economy, around 12-13mpg in the city, is that normal for a Riv??
Depends on how you drive it... If you have a lead foot, that's about normal... I get 16-18 in mainly city driving, 20-22 on the highway unless I really set my mind to it, then I can pull off 24.
albertj Master
Name : Location : Finger Lakes of New York State Joined : 2007-05-31Post Count : 8687 Merit : 181
I get around 13 in the city. If I drive around 55-60 MPH on the highway I get around 30 miles per gallon. If I keep up with traffic, 26-28 (you can guess the speed) miles per gallon.
Rivieras do not get good city mileage. Too much inertia. They get (or at least, can get) excellent highway mileage.