Got my riv back in the driveway. Fixing fuel gauge woe

It's a 97 and the VIN begins with 1

On ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320205950264&_trksid=p2759.l1259

They guy SAYS it will work on my money back. I also have a 10% coupon. Should I try that or just replace the whole sending unit? I suckered my fiance into driving it and we reinsured it today

What's going on with your fuel gauge? I ask because I think mine stops moving at 3/4 on the gauge. Pretty sure I've taken t below that but I'm being cautious.

Mine works when completely full and quits working around 3/4 tank. Sometimes it hovers up and down but never accurately works.

Hmm. Sounds exactly like what mine's doing. I'll be interested in your progress!

replace the whole entire fuel pump assembly. i bought mine from advance for about $200....its well worth it. remember your fuel sending unit is starting to go out, how long do you think it will before your pump starts going out? it's an 11 year old pump replace it! plus you have to pull the pump out to get to the sending unit anyway. there a ton of threads on here about replacing the pump. just my thought on the subject

Just so you know the 8th digit should be a 1.
Eight digit is engine code.
1= 3.8 Litre SC

The part in question:



Thanks so much Rickw! My 8th number is a 1

I don't really want to replace the whole pump as I don't just have $200 to throw around at this point and the pump is making no other signs of being bad. I'm going to investigate tomorrow and possibily order that part if need be.

If it's just a broken or frayed wired or bad connection, it shouldn't cause the pump to go bad. It has never whined once.

One more thing, is it simple to remove the pump? I assume its under the carpet covered by a panel like Cadillacs?

manofmany you are my god

i had no idea I could get just the sensor. walbro and functional fuel gauge here i come!

Yes, it is under a panel accessible from the trunk.
Relatively easy, make sure you have a new seal to install when you put it back together and if the locking ring is corroded replace that also.
So inspect these things first before disabling the car so you can have them on hand for a quick reassembly.

turtleman wrote:

manofmany you are my god

i had no idea I could get just the sensor. walbro and functional fuel gauge here i come!

Apparently if the 8th digit in your vin is a 1, it will work. Thanks Rickw for that information!

I'm gonna go inspect things. Nothing like have a gorgeous flawless Riviera that runs and drives like a dream.

I let me younger bro in law drive it home yesterday. He has always driven big trucks and I asked if he smashed the throttle and he said not all the way because he felt scared.

Direct from the seller:

this item will work on your application, on some models splicing the connector is required...thanks evalero1

If splicing is all that is required, that is no big deal. I don't want to replace a perfectly working pump if ya know what I mean.

Here is what I am looking at:



What do or might I need? Ive done engines and trannies but never fuel pumps. The pump works great but the gauge only works when full to 3/4 tank.

Ideas, suggestions? Wires seem intact and unfreyed.

More bad news. That top plastic return line you see... it broke.

I guess I HAVE to get a new pump now? Any idea where I can get the cheapest?

Spray with penetrating spray and let soak. May want to spray multiple times to ensure you can get locking ring loose. And I would definitely count on replacing with new.
Also, Gasket/Seal/O-ring that is under there;
there are 3 different possible types, be sure you use exact replacement for the type you have. One is "H" shaped other is flat type rubber gasket and the last type is an o-ring, if i remember correctly. There is a service bulletin that I've read in the past explaining the three types. Bulletin # 00-06-04-019 ask your local dealer if you find you need to reference it. It also lists all the different P/N's of seals. Different seals were used on different P/N tanks.

Well it looks like you beat me to my write up (on previous page).
Try Ebay motors and see if any are for sale. Make sure what you are looking at is for a Vin. #1.
Non-supercharged is a different p/n and is cheaper. Naturally ours are more expensive. Also check www.monsterpartsonline.com , www.trademotion.com,
www.gmpartsdirect.com
Make sure you look at shipping costs from them also, when you add it up you might be able to get one for the same price at your local auto parts store.
MAKE sure you specify VIN. 1

You've been a huge help Rick.

I've been soaking it in PB blaster. It won't budge, counterclockwise. I think this is the OEM pump anyways and its at 183k, If it fixes my problem, great! I didn't want to have to do this but I guess I have to, along with finding the correct locking ring. This one is metal and gone.

Now I have to source the cheapest I can find.

I got the ring out. A big breaker bar I use to remove windows did the trick. Got the pump/unit out.

Nothing visually seemed wrong. The float seemed limp.

Is this odd though? I turned the key over and the gauge went straight to full. Is that normal? I sourced a unit 25 minutes away with EVERYTHING except the metal retainer ring for $369 from napa. Says its an Actual MFG OEM unit. Sound alright?

By the time I wait for shipping and pay shipping with GMpartsdirect, I am not gonna be ahead. I really hope this fixes my gauge woes...

By the way, I saw no gasket or o-ring....

I guess its safe to say this has been in there all 183k miles and could use a changing anyways?

Fuel level sender = 40 ohms empty and 248 full
So, with the connector disconnected at the pump and key "on" the gauge would read full.
Gaket or o-ring isn't under the locking ring or lip of the pump its part of the fuel sender assy.

That makes sense. I really need to pick up an ohmeter the more and more and I read about them. These new pumps with the sending units seem to come with the oring and gaskets, just not the locking ring.

I'm going to source a local locking ring if possible (my old one was pried and beat to death) and buy it Friday if possible.

And Rick, once again I cannot emphasize how huge of a help you have been.

One last thing. Is there any reason to worry I may have messed up the tabs or whatever is used to lock the locking ring in place? It was pretty brutal getting out, and I'm not a weak guy by any means.

I guess it depends on how badly it got mangled. Couldn't be too bad if you were able to reinstall it.
Just pressurize the pump while watching the top of tank check for leaks, Also if it is sucking in air it will affect the EVAP System and you may get a light. Otherwise drive and enjoy.
Glad I could be of some help.
Rick

I ordered a new pump/unit/gasket for $302.

Gonna pick up a new locking ring for $6.50 or so Friday and get it all installed.

Actually the pump and ring is currently removed and not installed. Basically it's just gas sitting there. Wish I didn't have a full tank.

I misunderstood. i thought you bought the Napa unit and installed it.

I was originally going to go with the Napa unit but they can't have it until next Tuesday. I can get a unit from O'reilly for $50 less and have it Saturday.

Back to the JGC Limited til then. I hope my local Buick parts counter can get me the locking ring by Saturday. Rockauto wants $9.45 to ship a 6.50 part.