RPM limiter on Superchargerd 3.8

My rev limiter is set at 3,500 rpm. Whats your all rev limiter set at?

6000 RPM

what?! 3500 rpms? how is yours set at 3500? mine is same as AA's

Under what condition are we talking?
3500 in P/N makes sense.

im talking like redline

6200rpm as recommended by ZZP for my cam.
Definitely requires the shift speed/time/pressure to be changed also though or it takes a couple hundred rpm higher for the shift to be completed at WOT.

5500, stock right???

had 6000 yesterday...and yesterday for the 1st time...i hit the speed limiter on passing some cars. was craszy...had 6-7 cars fornt of me and a bit hill....passed them all..speed just rised rised..and when turned back on line...sav the speed limiter ...shifted the next gear? or something...cos the rev cone on 2000...and saw from mirrors a flach light from beheind lol.....guess it bumped so much fuil on...and when got shut down...some of the fuil burned in exhaust pipes? cos i think i saw somekind a light flash from mirrors beheind. backfire? lol

in park or neutral its about 3500 rpm but ive gotten it to jump the limiter two or three times to the 5500 rpm limiter. and 5500 as far as i know for any other gear

3500 in P/N

I'd have to look at my DHP settings, but I thing 1st gear is set at 5900 and 2nd at 6000 rpms.

You gotta remember, thats only when it shifts. During the shift, your rpms will still jump a little higher. So my 2nd gear probably hits 6200 in reality. I full scan during WOT runs will tell you for sure. Dont set them too high and make sure the limiter is set for the mods you have.

the factory rev limiter is set at 5,500 rpm but what kind of chance of engine damage if someone were to put the pedel to the medel so to say? Mine has 192,000 on it and dont want to end up throwing a rod because of bad bearnings or some stupid thing like that. I also am curious to know just what kind of horsepower increases have you guys noticed when adding a synthetic oil such as royal purple that was previously running on mineral based oils?

Thank You

Josh

The valvetrain is the main concern with high revs because over time the valvesprings can become soft/weak.

5500 is pretty safe as long as you don't keep the RPMs up by manually holding in 1st or 2nd. On a high-mileage car, the valvesprings probably are a bit soft, so letting the transmission do its job will ensure you only see the higher RPM for a second or two. Even so, the primary risk with weak springs would be floating the valves. Not good, but not catastrophic.

As for throwing a rod, anything's possible, but I have not heard of this happening much with 3800 engines, even high-mileage ones. Our bottom end is very stout (crank is good for up to 1000 hp). Proper maintenance - frequent oil changes & proper level - is good insurance against crank/bearing/rod failure. It doesn't need to be synthetic, just clean, proper weight oil.

Imo, you gain a small HP amount from using synthetic oil, but it doesn't compare to actual engine modification, especially with our torquey engines, which use beefier parts. On smaller, high revving engines, synthetic probably makes a bigger difference. As for longevity, I've used regular 10w-30 oil for over 150k miles (car has 175k), with modding starting around 30k miles. I'm sticking to the plan for as long as I have this car. I change oil & filter every 3k.

If you want to know a little about your engine's condition, take an oil sample and send to Blackstone for analysis. You can learn about your oil, condition of bearings, and any other fluids that have leaked into your oil over time. Link:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/care-maintenance-f8/mostly-good-oil-report-analysis-t2572.htm?highlight=analysis

Synthetic 5w30 gives the exact same performance as traditional 5w30. It's the viscosity that matters. If it weren't 5w30, it would have a different rating. Synthetic is more resistant to breaking down.

Throwing a rod is not an easy task even on a high milage 3800. More likely to pop a piston from knock/detonation combined with extended WOT than to throw a rod bearing.

okay, so what might cause my rev limiter to not work? I threw a MAF voltage code not to long ago but since the car was running fine figured what the hell, I'll keep driving it. Then a couple of weeks ago when I was pulling out of work I went to get on it and it bogged quite a bit. When I came up to the stop light I decided to rev it up a little to see if it was juts under load or in neutral as well. When I revved it up it didn't hit any rev limiter. I parked the car when I got to my apartment, since then I haven't had any problems with it bogging on heavy acceleration, it just seems like it's idling really low (in gear at 700 rpms, feels like it wants to hesitate a little if i try giving it a little gas, then it goes). I still have no rev limiter.

Also, before you make any wise cracks, yes the rev limiter was working before the incident. Don't know how long before because I don't just rev my car up on a daily basis, but I do know it was working. I'm running partial synthetic 5w30 and the car is at almost 170k miles.

when you say its not hitting the rev limiter, do you mean it will rev past 3500 in N and P or do you mean that when WOT it hits the redline before the shift?

It goes past 3500 in park and neutral. Although I went out today and for some reason it's working again :? Confusing. The car has been running better lately too though. IDK. Maybe it has something to do with the check engine light (low voltage to MAF)

I don't know if this was mentioned already but I think the 3500rpm limit in neutral is only in effect when the car is not moving or below a certain very low MPH. IIRC, you can stop the the car and put it in neutral and the limiter will cut it at 3500 but if you are cruising down the street and put it in neutral, it lets you rev it up. That's how mine is...

Dustin, if you have a code for low voltage to the MAF, it's conceivable that could cause a variety of spontaneous symptoms like that. PCM's can be touchy with voltage issues and be thrown off by intermittent problems elsewhere, IME.