...best bet is to use 'search' function on these pages and make a list of the issues people have posted about the '95s.
...since your '95 is/sounds so clean, I suspect your biggest issue will be non-availability of various parts.
You've been around a while so you probably know the following, so it's for the benefit of those who don't.
Like any car you're buying used you might consider making the bill of sale "subject to mechanics inspection" and have a mechanic *other than* the dealer run diagnostics. Just be sure to write 'subject to mechanics inspection' on the bill of sale. Before you sign it.
This does not mean let the house mechanic pull the codes, it means to have an independent mechanic give the car a 'safety inspection' (such as your state - Illinois?) may require or that they may offer for marketing, *and* that they connect the car to a Sun (by snap-on) or similar diagnostic machine and run a set of diagnostics. The diagnostics would likely include:
Cranking start/warm-up test including battery cold-cranking and total amps, as well as startup emissions; these tell you if the battery/starter are OK or if there is unusual load at startup, too-high emissions, and such.
Cruise tests including alternator output, emissions, air/fuel ratio; these tell you if there's issues with alternator, fuel supply or metering (maybe the throttle body is just dirty).
Idle test: look at emissions, electronic and mechanical operation at idle, and (again) emissions.
Base Timing Screen: RPM gauge; measurement of timing and engine temperature. Basically this is to see if the car's base timing has been set off-spec. *why* that might be is a different kettle of fish, but at least you'll know.
kV test: This checks the output and timing of ignition operation. If nothing's wrong with the PCM and the coils this will be in spec.
Power balance: This stells you basically of the engine is wearing evenly.
You also should to have the mechanic do a compression test and a cylinder leakdown test - they turn off ignition, crank car and see how long the cylinders each hold compression. Tells you if the engine is worn to the point of needing rebuilt. Unfortunately I don't know the compression the series I or series II normal-aspirated 3800 engines are supposed to have but I suspect someone else can post this.
It should cost under $200 (maybe as little as $50 depending on the shop) to do this set of diagnostics.
If any of the diagnostics are off spec then (at least in Pennsylvania or New York) you can renegotate or cancel the sale because the car failed mechanic's inspection (had parameters out of spec). In practice however what usually happens is the dealership repairs the problem(s) if they have their own shop, or gives on the price if they don't.