SERIOUSLY.... the transmission now... advice please!?

OK... so more horror I forgot to put in my other thread... I did read all the other ones which kindof sortof helped.

When changing the engine we unhooked the lines from the cooler... both of the mechanic guys I have doing the swap kindof cringed... brown... kindof looked gritty almost and did smell.... I have a 96 SC with 170xxx and I don't think it has been upgraded... it might actually be the original fluid if not the first change fluid...

So... I bought 4, 4 quart jugs of the Valvoline Dec/merc stuff I plan on using ( I got them for $1 each... yes.. one dollar) my issue is will this fluid subvice and do the duty? And I plan on dropping the pan checking it out... throwing 6-8 quartsquarts in and a new filter.... then doing it again about a month later because a flush is a no go... is all this a good idea? Thoughts on the fluid....

Also... I would have it extracted while the build is going on... but I don't want to push my luck with this Guy he's already done a lot for not much money..

And last but not least.... what kind of bad things could be going on in this thing...? I mean what should I be prepared for when I drop this pan and what parts should I prepare to buy.. seeing how I have never cracked open a trany?

Thanks guys I really need some good advice on this one

You're on the right track. I'd drop the pan and change the filter. I'd check/clean the magnet in the pan also. Dex 3 is your best bet on the initial change then you can upgrade to Dex VI after. You can also pick up a product from NAPA called Lubeguard in a red bottle (GM specific) to supplement the trans oil you're putting in. It's a nice additive that helps recondition dry hard seals in the valve body and such. Love the stuff.

Let us know how it goes.

Sweet... thanks man... that's what I'm gonna do... gonna do it twice with this Dec/merc stuff that's rated dexron 3... once when I get the car back... and a month after.. I figure the first change will get all but 2 quarts or so and dillute the crap... then the second time will leave 2 quarts of the 80% clean fluid so it will leave me overall with only 5-10% of the original crap... and of course the filter and magnet... ill try that lubeguard too... great advice.. its what I needed. Thanks.

wee-one wrote:

Sweet... thanks man... that's what I'm gonna do... gonna do it twice with this Dec/merc stuff that's rated dexron 3... once when I get the car back... and a month after.. I figure the first change will get all but 2 quarts or so and dillute the crap... then the second time will leave 2 quarts of the 80% clean fluid so it will leave me overall with only 5-10% of the original crap... and of course the filter and magnet... ill try that lubeguard too... great advice.. its what I needed. Thanks.

If the transmission was operating properly before you discovered the burnt fluid, you're likely OK.

Do not be surprised if there is a lot of crap in the pan not to mention on the magnet. No reason to wig out about anything except identifiable fragments of broken metal that look like a piece of something. Be sure to reuse the factory pan gasket *or* get a new factory style one (comes with the ACDelco filter kit, any good parts store will know what you are talking about)

$1 for 4 qts of DexIII/Merc is a bargain, it should have been $60-80 for that much, but Dex 6 will last longer and does not cost that much more; if you could get enough Dex III to do both changes fine but if not consider switching to DexVI on the upcoming change. I had my fluid changed a while back (~ 2 years 45,000 miles ago) to Dex VI, I *liked* that change. Had it changed again last week (maintenance time) at the shop that did the rebuild; they switched back to DexIII (I asked them to stay Dex VI but I saw them get the Kendall DexIII/Merc case, I am not happy BUT they did the rebuild and the tech said there is not much difference. From my perspective -- the Dex III costs a LOT less and the difference is Dex III is not as good cold as Dex VI, no way, and the shifts are mushy). I am not gonna sweat is - car runs in 4th gear lockup most of the time anyway, almost all my driving is highway, and so I'll probably just do a maintenance change back to Dex VI next year when it's time.

I am indifferent about additives and with frequent fluid changes would rather not bother.

Yeah... I ended up getting 16 quarts for $4 plus tax... can't beat that that's for sure.. so like I said I'm gonna do two changes including the filters in a months time... should rejuvinate the trany... it is fine now but real nasty fluid.... drove it up a real steep incline onto a flatbed And shifts fine so not quite time for a rebuild yet.... and I do plan on finding all sorts of shavings on the magnet... this fluid should be fine for another 10,000 miles after the two changes and ill switch to some other stuff... I do live in Nebraska... harsh winters... so this might be five for the long haul from what you are saying... and ill throw some additive in there... can't hurt it... its about time for a rebuild anyway... 10,xxx on engine.... 170xxx on trany so it'll need it within a year or two... no harm in experimenting.. thanks for the advice... I'd def like at least one more persons tho.

wee-one wrote:

Yeah... I ended up getting 16 quarts for $4 plus tax... can't beat that that's for sure.. so like I said I'm gonna do two changes including the filters in a months time... should rejuvinate the trany... it is fine now but real nasty fluid.... drove it up a real steep incline onto a flatbed And shifts fine so not quite time for a rebuild yet.... and I do plan on finding all sorts of shavings on the magnet... this fluid should be fine for another 10,000 miles after the two changes and ill switch to some other stuff... I do live in Nebraska... harsh winters... so this might be five for the long haul from what you are saying... and ill throw some additive in there... can't hurt it... its about time for a rebuild anyway... 10,xxx on engine.... 170xxx on trany so it'll need it within a year or two... no harm in experimenting.. thanks for the advice... I'd def like at least one more persons tho.

Yes I'd like to hear more folks chime in, if only with 1-liners.

Quick commets - call them "parting shots"

As far as how long this transmission will run without a rebuild? If you keep the fluid fresh (change every 50K or shorter interval) it can run a very long time. With one rebuild to correct for factory penny pinching my guess is that all bets are off as to how long because it could well be 200+ K miles. Another 50K and I will have 200K on one rebuild of the 4T65E.

My guess is the Dex III after the second change should hold you for 3 yrs/50K whichever's first.

As for the engine you might/should consider getting Blackstone or another oil testing firm to read a sample of your oil and give you comments. They can tell you how fast it is wearing. If you use syntheic oil you could rack up a whole lotta miles on it depending on the precision of the rebuild and preventive maintenance.

...anyway, yeah, gotta hear others experience.

I'd be weary about rebuilds on these transmissions unless it's a technician who is experienced with this model. There have been a multitude of posts on all 3800 forums of someone getting a rebuild on their 65e at a reputable trans shop only to have the trans fail 5,000 miles (or less) later.

If my trans was shot, I'd go hunting for a low mileage stocker... check the fluids in it and if it seems fine.. throw that sucker in.

Just my .02

Its all been covered.Nothing more to add really. The tranny runs good with the new fluid change.Your plan to run a few tranny oil through the tranny is a sound one.don't forget to change the filter at every oil change.it will cost you a few $ but imo its worth it.
your thoughts on a no-flush is right on. old trannys don't do well with flushes. I would add an oil cooler though,that would really be a good choice.they don't cost much.

Yeah.. thanks... someone else said something about an oil cooler... a trany cooler too I guess..

Also... testing the oil isn't going to help too much... I just had the new engine tore apart so it should be fine. The oil didn't look too bad either... and I am using synthetic oil... the Penn ultra hyper syn... its one of the best common oils you can buy and it is readily available when I top off every couple months.

But I am going to keep an eye out for a new trany because if you guys saw how bad this Guy ran this... damn... it was tore up.. I am glad I got a new engine... the thing was inch away from throwing a rod.

We that is reassuring.. ill just run the two changes then save up for the upgraded rebuild in about a year... kindof sucks that the Guy doing the swap specializes in trany repair because I'm pressing my luck with him by doing what he is now... LOL... I doubt he will ever want to hear from me again... good news is I am going to have it all done this week and plate and register it and FINALLY drive it after a months wait for the first time!!!

wee-one wrote:

Yeah.. thanks... someone else said something about an oil cooler... a trany cooler too I guess..

Also... testing the oil isn't going to help too much... I just had the new engine tore apart so it should be fine. The oil didn't look too bad either... and I am using synthetic oil... the Penn ultra hyper syn... its one of the best common oils you can buy and it is readily available when I top off every couple months.

But I am going to keep an eye out for a new trany because if you guys saw how bad this Guy ran this... damn... it was tore up.. I am glad I got a new engine... the thing was inch away from throwing a rod.

We that is reassuring.. ill just run the two changes then save up for the upgraded rebuild in about a year... kindof sucks that the Guy doing the swap specializes in trany repair because I'm pressing my luck with him by doing what he is now... LOL... I doubt he will ever want to hear from me again... good news is I am going to have it all done this week and plate and register it and FINALLY drive it after a months wait for the first time!!!

I hear you, Randy Wee-One.

For the rest of you reading this, and for the record.

Testing your oil (by Blackstone or another lab) does no good if the engine is bad. If the engine is good it helps a lot because you can find out what maintenance intervals and wear characteristic your engine has, given the way you drive. It is preventive maintenance, not a problem diagnostic.