Overheating

So, new water pump, new radiator, flushed and filled, BUT water keeps boiling out of the overflow into the reservoir, doesn’t seem to circulate through engine. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Chuck

Chuckly wrote:

So, new water pump, new radiator, flushed and filled, BUT water keeps boiling out of the overflow into the reservoir, doesn’t seem to circulate through engine. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Chuck

my guess is you didn't "burp" it right - do a search on this site you'll find posts (at least one by me) on how to do it right. An IR thremometer might help, by the way.

Albertj

Yep, there's probably an air pocket surrounding the thermostat.

I don’t think that’s my problem. I’ve got a flush kit installed in the top heater hose, and can fill it completely. Then after a few minutes running, steam starts bubbling into the reservoir, while the water in the radiator is only warm. I think that water is boiling out of the engine block, and not being pumped from the radiator into it. That’s why I changed the water pump. Any other thoughts? Thanks again for your response.
- Chuck

Chuckly wrote:

So, new water pump, new radiator, flushed and filled, BUT water keeps boiling out of the overflow into the reservoir, doesn’t seem to circulate through engine. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Chuck

what year/model etc? You posted this in the Turbo V6 and other section, which would make for a different answer. Help us help you by adding that information to your signature.

Oh! I didn’t realize that! I have a ‘98 supercharged 3800.

Chuckly wrote:

Oh! I didn’t realize that! I have a ‘98 supercharged 3800.

The flush kit helps but will not "burp" it. No other thoughts. As long as the 'stat has an air pocket it won't open and you'll spill coolant.

At your own risk, it would not be a bad idea to remove the 'stat and dunk it in boiling water just to see what happens. You can do this in your kitchen in, yeah, a pot of boiling water. Get a chap saucepan from teh dollar store, put enough water in to cover the 'stat, then boil the water. Using a wire coat hanger, bend the coathanger so that you can insert the hook thru the frame of the thermostat without blocking the valve. Lower it into the boiling water and it should open fairly quickly. If not, you have found at least part of your problem -- the thermostat is bad. They will fail open or closed, better ones (like the original equipment ones) are designed to pretty consistently fail open. Be careful so you don't burn yoruself or damage anything. And if you decide to do this, let us know what the thermostat does.

Albert;

Thanks again for your help, I forgot to mention new thermostat also!

- Chuck

You may also want to test the cooling system to see if it holds pressure. Also check the coolant for the presence of hydrocarbons. If you have a leaky head gasket, and compression is bleeding into the cooling system, you will have constant over heating problems.

Nobody yet has mentioned the radiator cap.....................

Chuckly wrote:

Albert;

Thanks again for your help, I forgot to mention new thermostat also!

- Chuck

...does not mean you should not test it.

...and you still have to properly burp the system.

...and Abaddon mentions the rad cap... I would def NOT ignore Abaddon.

If the rad cap is bad, the coolant will boil prematurely, which would more than likely happen just before or at "normal" operating temperature. Since our reservoirs are vented, it will boil through the overflow tube more than it would the cap, especially if the cap is only a few Lbs off spec.

I've seen quite a few rad caps get overlooked, and hundreds spent when the repair is only about $15. Take your cap to Autozone, Advance, O'Reilley, etc and have it tested. Last I remember, any "good" auto parts joint has a Pressure Tester for that.

I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's definitely something worth checking.

Albert........

Thanks everybody! New cap, burped the system. Head gasket possibility worries me, but I have no coolant in the oil pan. BTW, Abaddon, we spent 50 years in Detroit, Utica, Royal Oak, Troy, Pontiac, Holly, and Clarkston before getting cold enough to move to Daytona Beach!

- Chuck

Chuckly wrote:

Thanks everybody! New cap, burped the system. Head gasket possibility worries me, but I have no coolant in the oil pan. BTW, Abaddon, we spent 50 years in Detroit, Utica, Royal Oak, Troy, Pontiac, Holly, and Clarkston before getting cold enough to move to Daytona Beach!

- Chuck

are you saying it's behaving now?

No, just running out of ideas!

Chuckly wrote:

Thanks everybody! New cap, burped the system. Head gasket possibility worries me, but I have no coolant in the oil pan. BTW, Abaddon, we spent 50 years in Detroit, Utica, Royal Oak, Troy, Pontiac, Holly, and Clarkston before getting cold enough to move to Daytona Beach!

- Chuck

if the head is leaking between the water jacket and a cylinder you may not get coolant in the oil.

(and a water-glass based mechanic-in-a-can might work)

There exists a chemical test for combustion gases in coolant. That and a coolant pressure test should be telling.

http://www.ehow.com/how_7885485_test-exhaust-gases-coolant.html

http://www.benplace.com/pressure_test.htm

LARRY70GS wrote:

There exists a chemical test for combustion gases in coolant. That and a coolant pressure test should be telling.

http://www.ehow.com/how_7885485_test-exhaust-gases-coolant.html

http://www.benplace.com/pressure_test.htm

Great catch...