How much would it cost to re paint my Rivvy?

I'm not even sure at all, but how much would it cost to get my Rivvy repainted?

also what about shallow dents barely noticeable? fill with bondo and paint over or try to suction them out or what? I'm asking you guys before some body/paint place tries ripping me off, and I actually wouldn't mind doing it myself provided the right tools, but I don't wanna mess it up without any tools.

unless:

is sanding it down entirely then applying primer, then either engine paint or flat black a bad idea to basically make it just not look bad until I have enough money to get the sqrivi bumper tuck surgery done, THEN invest in good paint?

basically how many cans of spray would I need, and how much would it cost about? I could probably find a facility to spray it down and let cure for an allotted time provided that I sand it down myself :3

Well from a quick search it takes about 20 cans to do flat black on a hatch civic. double that for the riv.
I would personally stick with the paint that is on the car. For a little bit of money you can detail the crap out of a factory paint with some clear coat left. A rattle can job will not last and you cant wax, clay, or detail flat black.

A paint job cost ranges from $300- well over $15,000. you get what you pay for.
If you are looking to get something close to factory in terms of quality then you will need to fork over about $2,000 for regular paints and $2500 for tri-coats/pearl.

Flat black with a semi-gloss clear top coat will look nice with some subtle red or yellow striping in the right spots, IMO. You can do it with rattle cans and it will hide most of your dings.

ghpcnm wrote:

Flat black with a semi-gloss clear top coat will look nice with some subtle red or yellow striping in the right spots, IMO. You can do it with rattle cans and it will hide most of your dings.

If this is the look you are going for then fine.


but this flat black paint job cost considerably more (done right IMO)

painting a car with rattle cans will guarantee disaster. not to mention it's more expensive if you do it that way. For a little under $300 bucks you can buy a base coat clear coat system.

http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_starfire_bronzemet.html (just an example)

not the greatest paint in the world but miles away from a spray can.
harbour freight has really good hvlp guns for $29 buck and up.an old time body guy i used to work with turns out very nive work with one.
add to that some masking paper and tape and you got yourself a project.
it takes so much work to paint a car correctly ,that to waste your time on a less than perfect paint job doesnt make sense.
body work,sanding,prepping,masking,blocking,priming,sanding some more,degreasing,and finally painting followed by clear.ugh.so much work.people dont realize. by the time you get half way done with the prep work you will really appreciate all the work you've done.
I aint never painted an entire car,painted many motorcycles and car parts,but never an entire car.its my first time too! so I shouldnt give advise.but just from getting the car prepped I know that it would have all been in vain if I skimp on the paint.

you can fix your own dents that isnt too hard, im sure you can find good videos on line. DONTuse bondo its garbage ! pay a lillte more and get a decent brand. i went with martin senior micro light , you can get it at napa. When painting a car in a garage you will need a compressor able to keep up with the paint gun. A decent paint gun (gravity fed HVLP) iwata and sata are very popular models..You will need a regulator and water oil separator . A good filter on a fan to get some kind of ventalation and good light is also a must. Not sure what your going for but any route you go to get a decent finish is gonna cost you. Rattle cans are garbage and in most cases dont have UV protectant and the paint ends up being softer, less weather, scratch, chip resistant and will fade after a few years... I did a old turbo lazer i had black with rattle cans i had the paint perfect for a ratle can job then sold the car ( my DD was smashed in the body shop it was a temp car) i seen the car a few years later looked like total crap lol
Best route would be find a good repatable body shop see if they will cut you a deal (you do most of the prep work) and when you have the money do all the body work, sand down most of the car and tape what you can. Dont drive the car with primer or body filler exposed unless your on your way to pain it. Body filler will act like a sponge and soak up water then rust or bubble/ fall out. Primer is a cool look but we have all seen the cars driving around that look like chalk because the primer has no protection for UV deterioration!
Body shops pay alot for painting due to the EPA so they pass the bill onto the person getting the car painted. When i did my car materials alone were $1200.00 not counting tape and sand paper.
good paint is not cheap but it will last a long time and the body shop will usually back up the work (except for rust) for the life of the car.

I got mine done very acceptably by Maaco for about $850. That was a couple of years ago. Things could be more expensive where you live, though, and this was for just basic paint--one coat, no clearcoat (fortunately my white isn't pearlescent). I had no bodywork done, but I did have to have some surface rust taken off.

I'm pretty much negative on rattlecans, bondo, and any other temporary patch you might put on, because then that will have to be sanded off before you can get a good finish over it. (More expense if you have it done, more of a pain if you do it yourself.) If it's just dented and weathered, I'd say, live with it until you can do it right. On the other hand, if you have rust starting, then you need to stop that right now and some home patchwork is probably warranted as a stopgap.

I can tell you this. In most cases, you will get what you pay for. In some cases, you will get more than you paid for. A little over 2 years ago, the paint on my Riv was showing it's age. The first signs of trouble was a hazing of the clear coat. It looked like someone took steel wool to the paint. Then, the paint started to lift away from the primer underneath. I had a decision to make. I either had the car painted, or, I sold it and bought something else. There was never really any question though, I'd grown attached to the car, and wanted to keep it. IMHO, Buick hit a home run with this car. It had power, comfort, and gas mileage, and it looked like nothing on the road today. I let it be known amongst my friends and fellow club members, that I wanted to paint the car. One of my friends used to paint cars with a guy who had opened his own shop years ago. He said this guy was good, and that he would talk with him about my car. I ended up using this guy to paint my car. I left the car with him for 7 weeks, and not once did I go down there or call him. My friend was down there a few times a week anyway, and he gave me regular updates and pictures of the progress. I knew the car was being worked on every day. What he did was use my car to fill in when his workers had some down time, so the car got done a little at a time. I was amazed when I looked at the pictures I was getting, and saw that I was getting a first class paint job. The car was totally disassembled. Everything was removed, door handles, mirrors, side molding, windshield, and window moldings, and both bumper covers. Hell, he even had a glass guy cut out the fixed side windows because the chrome surround was all one piece with the window. The car was completely taken down to bare metal, and primed and prepped with the best stuff. I was so pleased the day I picked the car up. The entire job cost me 4200.00. There is no doubt in my mind that I should have paid at least twice that for what I got. It's been over 2 years now, and the car looks just as good as the day I picked it up. I had 0 issues.

My recommendation is that you shop and ask around where you live. There are still shops out there that will do it right.

also dont use rattle can if you want to paint the car later on. it is very hard to take off the car its soft and clogs up the sandpaper, it will somtimes also cause a cemical reaction if you spray over it causeing all the paint to crack !

turned out nice is it a tri-coat?

2000ws6transam wrote:

turned out nice is it a tri-coat?

I have no idea, but I can tell you it's like a mirror. All I know is it's base coat/ clear coat

I don't think I'd ever wanna pay 4200 for a paint job :3 especially when my entire car cost $750. I never realized paint was so damn expensive :o

Is engine paint anywhere near as strong as auto paint? Also, I had an idea to paint it old olive green like a warbird wwII airplane. Would that be any cheaper?

the newwer dupli color would be your best bet if you dont wanna spend alot ... engine paint would be worse

Well, the main reason I don't wanna spend a whole lot at the moment is because I wanna eventually get the sqrivi bumper tuck done. Basically, I don't mind it looking not showroom until I get the bumpers tucked in :p

That being said, flat black dupicolor is strongest you say?

c0reyl wrote:

I don't think I'd ever wanna pay 4200 for a paint job :3 especially when my entire car cost $750. I never realized paint was so damn expensive :o

Is engine paint anywhere near as strong as auto paint? Also, I had an idea to paint it old olive green like a warbird wwII airplane. Would that be any cheaper?

That is an awesome price for the paint job I had done. Most people have no idea what paint and body work costs these days. I can remember being quoted 5000.00 to paint my 72 Skylark back in the 1980's. To do it right, it takes a lot of hours. There are plenty of shops that will just scuff the paint and paint right over. The Riviera has to be taken down to bare metal if you want it to last at all. The factory paint is terrible. For what you want, if I was you, I'd strip the car myself, and then take it to Maaco. You can probably get a good job that you'll be satisfied with, and the price will be right.

LARRY70GS wrote:

2000ws6transam wrote:

turned out nice is it a tri-coat?

I have no idea, but I can tell you it's like a mirror. All I know is it's base coat/ clear coat

yeah looks like the did base clear then wet sanded then re-clear it gives the finish more depth with out all the orange peel

c0reyl wrote:

I don't think I'd ever wanna pay 4200 for a paint job :3 especially when my entire car cost $750.

My point exactly!!!

If you have the typical 12-15 year old $750 car, why not???

I rattle can my work cars all the time and they look pretty darn nice.


Materials needed: Most can be bought at any auto store
-300-400 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-1000 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-2000 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-Car polish (as fine a grit as possible)
-Alcohol and paper towels
-Dawn dish soap
-Terry cloth towels
-Color Paint (Rattle Can)
-Automotive Clear Coat (Rattle Can)

Step 1: Sand the surface using the 300-400 grit sandpaper down to a “smooth finish”. Take the time and do a thorough job at this stage. Sand the surface so the paint has something to bond to.

Step 2: Clean the surface with the Dawn Dish soap, Use Dawn since it removes grease the best. Towel dry then rub the surface with a paper towel soaked in alcohol to clean the surface further. Once it is air dried you can put the first coat of color on the surface. Do a slow even coat, don’t go too thick since it will drip then you have to wait for it to dry and start over with sanding. Let it dry “to the touch” as per the cans directions . Put another thin coat and let dry. Do this for about 5-6 coats minimum, you can keep doing this until you're satisfied with the coverage.

You will notice that the surface looks like an orange peel. This is normal. After you put your last coat on the paint you need to wait at least 12 hours for it to “Cure” (I like to wait 24 hours).

Step 3: Use the 1000 grit paper and WET sand the surface to remove the “Orange peel” Don’t sand too hard or you will remove the color. This step doesn’t have to be perfect, just reduce the orange peel look. Wash with dawn dish soap then alcohol then let dry. Put 2 more coats of color (Don’t worry if it is not shiny) and let cure for 12-24 hours.

Step 4: Wash with alcohol and let dry. Use the clear coat rattle can and put the first coat then let dry “to the touch” per the cans directions (Usually 30min). Do this with min 5-6 coats. The more you put on the “deeper” your paintjob will look. When done let it “Cure” for 12-24 hours. The surface will be a dull looking paintjob, but we are not done.

Step 5: Wet Sand the surface down with the 1000 grit paper to reduce the “orange peel” look of the clear coat. Use the 2000 grit wet sandpaper to smooth out the remaining orange peel look and make the surface smooth to the touch. Don’t go too deep with the sandpaper or you will rub through the clear coat. Use the polish and a terry cloth to make the surface shiny and gleaming. Wash and wax the surface and your done!

About as good as Maaco IMO

Would I do it to the Riv or the Reatta? HELL NO !!!

Dave,
That is fine as long as the paint on the car is sound. On the Rivieras, that is not the case. I've looked at a lot of these cars. The paint fails in the same way. GM had a problem with incompatibility between the primer and the paint I believe. I've seen what happened to my car, happen to at least 6 others that my friends have. That's why I would strip the car myself if I didn't want to spend the money on a good paint job. Even Maaco can put a nice paint job down, as long as the surface is sound. It's a waste of time and money to paint a car that will just peel anyway.

LARRY70GS wrote:

Dave,
That is fine as long as the paint on the car is sound. On the Rivieras, that is not the case. I've looked at a lot of these cars. The paint fails in the same way. GM had a problem with incompatibility between the primer and the paint I believe. I've seen what happened to my car, happen to at least 6 others that my friends have. That's why I would strip the car myself if I didn't want to spend the money on a good paint job. Even Maaco can put a nice paint job down, as long as the surface is sound. It's a waste of time and money to paint a car that will just peel anyway.

I understand what you're saying Larry and I agree. BUT...I'm talking about painting a $750 car on a very limited budget. By the way...You have a beautiful Riv.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=rattle+can+paint+job&view=detail&mid=D0F3E7613F1AB45B8916D0F3E7613F1AB45B8916&first=0&FORM=LKVR

ghpcnm wrote:

LARRY70GS wrote:

Dave,
That is fine as long as the paint on the car is sound. On the Rivieras, that is not the case. I've looked at a lot of these cars. The paint fails in the same way. GM had a problem with incompatibility between the primer and the paint I believe. I've seen what happened to my car, happen to at least 6 others that my friends have. That's why I would strip the car myself if I didn't want to spend the money on a good paint job. Even Maaco can put a nice paint job down, as long as the surface is sound. It's a waste of time and money to paint a car that will just peel anyway.

I understand what you're saying Larry and I agree. BUT...I'm talking about painting a $750 car on a very limited budget. By the way...You have a beautiful Riv.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=rattle+can+paint+job&view=detail&mid=D0F3E7613F1AB45B8916D0F3E7613F1AB45B8916&first=0&FORM=LKVR

Thanks Dave, and yes, I understand..

ghpcnm wrote:

c0reyl wrote:

I don't think I'd ever wanna pay 4200 for a paint job :3 especially when my entire car cost $750.

My point exactly!!!

If you have the typical 12-15 year old $750 car, why not???

I rattle can my work cars all the time and they look pretty darn nice.


Materials needed: Most can be bought at any auto store
-300-400 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-1000 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-2000 grit sandpaper (Wet/Dry)
-Car polish (as fine a grit as possible)
-Alcohol and paper towels
-Dawn dish soap
-Terry cloth towels
-Color Paint (Rattle Can)
-Automotive Clear Coat (Rattle Can)

Step 1: Sand the surface using the 300-400 grit sandpaper down to a “smooth finish”. Take the time and do a thorough job at this stage. Sand the surface so the paint has something to bond to.

Step 2: Clean the surface with the Dawn Dish soap, Use Dawn since it removes grease the best. Towel dry then rub the surface with a paper towel soaked in alcohol to clean the surface further. Once it is air dried you can put the first coat of color on the surface. Do a slow even coat, don’t go too thick since it will drip then you have to wait for it to dry and start over with sanding. Let it dry “to the touch” as per the cans directions . Put another thin coat and let dry. Do this for about 5-6 coats minimum, you can keep doing this until you're satisfied with the coverage.

You will notice that the surface looks like an orange peel. This is normal. After you put your last coat on the paint you need to wait at least 12 hours for it to “Cure” (I like to wait 24 hours).

Step 3: Use the 1000 grit paper and WET sand the surface to remove the “Orange peel” Don’t sand too hard or you will remove the color. This step doesn’t have to be perfect, just reduce the orange peel look. Wash with dawn dish soap then alcohol then let dry. Put 2 more coats of color (Don’t worry if it is not shiny) and let cure for 12-24 hours.

Step 4: Wash with alcohol and let dry. Use the clear coat rattle can and put the first coat then let dry “to the touch” per the cans directions (Usually 30min). Do this with min 5-6 coats. The more you put on the “deeper” your paintjob will look. When done let it “Cure” for 12-24 hours. The surface will be a dull looking paintjob, but we are not done.

Step 5: Wet Sand the surface down with the 1000 grit paper to reduce the “orange peel” look of the clear coat. Use the 2000 grit wet sandpaper to smooth out the remaining orange peel look and make the surface smooth to the touch. Don’t go too deep with the sandpaper or you will rub through the clear coat. Use the polish and a terry cloth to make the surface shiny and gleaming. Wash and wax the surface and your done!

About as good as Maaco IMO

Would I do it to the Riv or the Reatta? HELL NO !!!

Thanks for the tips man. I think ill try this first and end up paying good money after I replace the bumpers for the sqrivi set :3

Instead of gloss, how does a really dark flat black look? I might end uqp buying a pant gun and going from flat black with a tint of metallic red into it so at low light it loooks black, at night, nearly invisible and bright sun will look like volcano red hinting out of the black :p

You could do it like I did if you are handy with tools and have a flair for any sort of painting. Cost me a little over $100 in materials and two days time to do it myself with the help of a friend (prep and then spraying). We did it under a makeshift car port in my driveway. Car doesn't look as near as nice as Larry's I'm sure but for only a couple hundred it was worth it. And the car looks the same over two years later as it did when it was first painted.