Rear adjustment links and tie rods for Riviera

2005 Park Ave not the same part. 25954973 and it fits both sides. Pitch is different (the curve) which will affect the tow & in and out of the wheels. ( I had 1974, 1977, 1980 Corvettes, I know all about rear end alignment!)

The 1999, 1998, 1997 they claim (Original GM PARTS) is the right part. Well better then just working on the 1997. Junk yards are selling different links saying they are the same....My head hurts.

I'm thinking maybe I am not supposed to replace these links...I mean what if the mechanic glanced at at them and thought yes the tie rod ends and the arms.....think they'd be an easy after market part...just to be safe?

The universe was telling me something. I got on the ground, slid under the car and felt them, yanked on them...they seem fine...surface rust...but solid...got a friend who rebuilt motorcycles to feel 'em...he said why are you going there?

I have found a few pairs out west...and in the south...like $100- $110 shipped....


Should I leave 'em alone or risk buying parts at the junk yard?

only way to tell would be to grind the rust. if it is really surface rust then a repaint with chassis black POR-15 or its cousins (oxygen-scavenging epoxies IIRC) would fix you up, and maybe add replacement tie rod ends for good measure (a full-line MOOG chassis parts place should be able to find you some that will fit).

Found a perfect match...

https://i.servimg.com/u/f37/16/67/12/77/found_16.jpg

These are off of a 1997.

Mine are very rusty and the ends are falling apart. No Hollander (Using the GM part ) part number. Located them by calling a yard that specializes in GM and the part guy knew exactly what I meant. Love the salvage yards.

Show us pics then maybe believe!!!

OKAY>>> Here they are...and they are in FANTASTIC SHAPE.....$80 for the pair.

Found them in OREGON off a 1997 for $80 for the pair...my ends are blown in the rear....

So I've been reading through these forums since my dad brought home a 95 Riviera. I'm working on cleaning it up and getting it sorted as we speak. Right now, I'm working on getting the rear suspension worked out. All the rubber components are cracked and caked in road grime, so I'd like to replace them. I can get LCA bushings, and the shock and mount, and air lines. I'm trying to find out whether the rear outer tie rod is the same as the front? The ball joint is pretty bad. Also, anywhere I can get rear link bushings? And the bushings between the rear link member and the body?

Thanks in advance!

Welcome! I'm not sure if the tie rods are a different size. Link Bushings may be a dealer only part. Not sure. I ran new lines and a valve underneath my bumper. Your air shocks are likely spent as well. They're affordable and easy to install . Good fortune to you in your fixing!

I spent HOURS on the internet looking for the rear outer ends. Never could find them. Found the complete rear adjustable link's and ends at a salvage yard in Oregon.

After taking some major crap from a some of the guys who post here ("could not find a part at the urinal at Madison Square Garden") I was just looking for some help for gosh sakes. God only knows what that was about....

Anyway....The difference in the ride is (after the links were swapped out) is a MAJOR IMPROVEMENT!

The old rubber ends were pancaked completely on one side, the other half of it was hanging off. Used to do a real thud...thud now it's like riding in a new car. Made more of a difference then replacing the shocks did. Good luck...I could not find a Holander part number, but if you go to car-part.com do a search talk to some of the older guys I'm sure you'll locate some. Have them send you pictures of the parts first if possible. Oh and the non tie rod ends needed to be machined they ended up being quarter inch too thick... These did come off a 1997 so my mechainc is still not sure what that was about ???

Quote :

After taking some major crap from a some of the guys who post here ("could not find a part at the urinal at Madison Square Garden") I was just looking for some help for gosh sakes. God only knows what that was about....

oh boo hoo..dey gave me cwap foh cwyin out wowd! da mean fohwum guys..waaaa!!!

I'd like to take this chance to remind anyone looking for rear adjustment links that there is an option that was linked to in page one of this thread. It’s a custom option that costs about the same as stock ones (If you can find some) and is a vastly superior solution:
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t7827-write-up-custom-rear-adjustment-links

so true. mine work real good. and to replace a worn bearing only costs less than $25 bucks,for both sides!

[quote] so true. mine work real good. and to replace a worn bearing only costs less than $25 bucks,for both sides!

If they are so cheap and you can make them why don't you offer to do so? Hum?

dey gave me cwap foh cwyin out wowd![quote]dey gave me cwap foh cwyin out wowd!

Honestly robotennis61....

I don't get why you came down on me....I was looking for help...girls can't ask about repairs?

You're pretty nice to folks, generous in your responses to others. Just me huh?

If I could have (had the tools, talent, looks' kinda hard) fabricated your option I might have tried to figure it out or have someone else do it for me. Then the thought of installing it well that is something that isn't happening here.

How does your modification companisate for the angle in the original links...would those straight ends result in a tow-in on the rear tires? Is the space/size of the "worn bearing" of any consideration to the final result?

Why not offer these for sale to folks who need them? Looks like there is a demand.

well ya got a point there lisa. im just a suker for cute girls....on the other hand,i did put the parts needed to make this happen.all ya gotta do is buy em.dont even need to weld.you weld if you want to. jus takes figuring out.

Lisa P wrote:

The washer pieces that look brand new - are those for the camber adjustment cams or whatever back there? I've been afraid to touch those since we snapped the end of one of the studs off already during a routine alignment service.

I'm really not object to your fabricated method. But as Lisa pointed out, how does this compensate for adjustment? I don't want to spend money to make it worse.. Also, fact is, my arms are still seemingly good. I just needed the bushings on the rear cradle (body attachment, and where the links attach to the cradle), and the tie rod end; the ball joints are blown.

I think the problem is nobody's really sure what dark parts bin GM pulled those ends out of. I would not be surprised to find they are off something common like a '66 Pontiac Tempest or, even funnier, a '70 AMC Gremlin. http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-ES368RL

cryoburned wrote:

I'm really not object to your fabricated method. But as Lisa pointed out, how does this compensate for adjustment? I don't want to spend money to make it worse.. Also, fact is, my arms are still seemingly good. I just needed the bushings on the rear cradle (body attachment, and where the links attach to the cradle), and the tie rod end; the ball joints are blown.

If you cant find the rear tie rods seperately and cant fathom searching all over creation for what will cetainly be a crap pair,a simple solution would be to run a die over the threaded end of the adjustment link and thread on a front tie rod. i mean,you would have to figure how to do it. im allmost certain that the rear adjustmentlink is a larger OD on the threaded end. the front tie rod is smaller. i good tap and die set and some calculating and you can make your own from a front set. if i had to guess from memory,a front tie rod pair can be bored out and Heli-Coiled and then tapped to the matching thread to the rear adjustment link.im going from memory her so...i dont see why it cant be done.the rear is bigger so...plenty of material there to work with.

my set up is a race set up.just bolting up aint gonna happen.lot more to it than that.

Right. That is a part of why I kinda wanted to explore not that. Although I guess For the effort of re-cutting threads I could weld some correctly sized allthread??? But that still doesn't fix the adjustment cams. Have you a solution for that (or if you care, or if it matters)?

Plus I saw the words sleeving and reaming, and I don't have the precision equipment to do either..

...well for anyone interested in maintaining their Riv forever,yer gonna have to start thinkin outside the box. if you cant think outside the box buy a hyundai. parts are becoming hard to find.
adjustment cam? oh boy! the alu rod in the pic is left/right threaded.all youz have to do is loosen the lock nuts and turn the rod to get your toe. easy peasy japanesy.plain simple stupid.
not my ideas.just borrowed from the race car industry. race cars are set up in such a way as to allow most any repair or adjustment to be done quickly and with minimal effort.i aint kiddin. last a super long time too! only drawback is NVH. who cares.

Right. But isn't the tie rod portion for the adjustment of toe, while the cam is for the adjustment of camber? Or does the link not lift the LCA at all?

And again, like I said, I don't have precision tools. A sleeve I could probably manage, but I'd imagine I'd need a proper drill press for 10* reaming of the LCA?

p.s. I have a hyundai.. lol

1, the Riviera is not adjustable for camber at the rear.whoever told you that is a dumb ass.
2,the oem rear adjustable link has to be disengaged from the control arm to adjust toe if outside the cams range.PIA.a heim joint & a swaged tube do not need to be disengaged to adjust toe.
3, let me explain the rear AL. the cam is to adjust toe.you turn the cam and you get toe.if your alignment does not fall within the limited oem adjustment,then you have to disconect the outer tie rod and spin it in or out as the alignment dictates. however,its rare that the oem cam cannot toe in or out within its range. but its butt ugly and suseptible to failure. and why do you want ugly?the ball joint wears out and is not replaceable.what will you do then?heim joints will always be in production and cost about $10 to $20 bucks and up depending on the quality.
4,"does not lift the LCA at all"? what?
5,i dont have precision tools either.a 10 degree reamer can be bought for around $80 bucks.you chuck it in your cordless drill,bite your tongue and start drillin..thats all you need. i have a makita cordless drill and a bosch 4" grinder and a flux core welder.those are my precision tools.