Hose to Nowhere

I think this is the culprit. This little hose goes nowhere and has been packed with gauze and pinched off by a plastic zip tie. Given all the pics could someone explain what this is?

I've been having vacuum issues for a long time. Sometimes it doesn't even feel like the supercharger is connected or working. Also the cruise disengages when the issue is noticeable.

Should I find some sort of cap to put here or does this need to be hooked up to another component on the other end?

This port is left open originally. It did have a little foam filter when the car was new. Take off that elbow and see if your issues go away.

Once again BigDave is right on. Pull that thing off and see what improves. If it still feels like the SC is not kicking in, rev it from under the hood and look at the actuator just behind it to see that its moving freely. The actuator extended all the way should be full boost and should kick in under engine load, so sharp jabs on the throttle should see is move down and back up. What can also happen is the solinoid that your strange elbow is attached to can go bad and the result is half boost. Replacements can be hard to find new, but you can use any one off anything, even an m90.

Great info. I'll tries this out after work...and closer to home.

I miss that kick of speed and strength.

Be sure to pit some kind of dust filter on that opening in place of the elbow. A chunk of open cell poly foam will do, such as plastic kitchen sponge. Someone on here had a bunch of spare ones of the OE filters.

Karma is right about the boost solenoid. I had a code for a long time and that I eventually linked to that solenoid. It made a big difference after changed. I'm pretty sure if it is bad you will be getting a code though which will have to do with the computer, evap purge, and the boost control solenoid.

Didn't get too much into it last night but I looked at my mystery hose and thought that if the original part was semi-permiable, like sponge material, this gauze DIY jobbie should do just fine.

I did take off my MAF sensor I bought this past years and sprayed it with MAF cleaner. After starting it stumbled a little but smoothed out.

Happy to report my Check Engine Light did not come on throughout my entire 45-mile commute this morning; the light usually coming on 1/4 mile away from my driveway.

Seeing as the sensor was new I hadn't figured it needed cleaning, I had the spray from a while ago in hopes of salvaging the old component.

Smooth at highway speeds and not choppy going downhill with cruise(I leave it on for the entire highway trip). Even at 75mph the whole way the fuel seemed to sip rather than consume.

Happy for now but like most of my successes, some other issue is sure to be on the horizon.

I'd still be tempted to pop that "aftermarket" filter off and see how it runs. I ran for years with no filter there and honestly the stock bit of foam is a bug screen, no more.

It all comes down to how much air resistance that thing has. Is the tube full of gauze with a a cloth end cap? is it just the cloth capping on the end? how much air can really easily move through it? how much of the diameter is crushed by the zip tie on the end? does it have some resistance that under vaccum will cause it to crush closed? The boost solonid uses that port for its breathing in and out, so much like how an electric sprinkler valve uses a tiny bit of flow to trigger larger flow: it uses small amounts of airflow to trigger the changes in pressure to have your boost actuator kick up and down.

Not saying anything for sure, but the more I look at your pics, the more I'd take that sucker off there and see what happens. There are lots of possibilities for how it can be changing air resistance in and out of the port. For airflow through an orfice, a 90deg bend alone has a dramatic difference in flow resistance.

Put a sponge on it. At least try it for a bit without that elbow "thing" on.

Mine's been uncovered for as long as I can remember. No issues that I'm aware of.

Well, OK, you sold me on the idea, I will remove this when I get home. Keep it in the glove box just in case.

After work the light came back on. Felt no difference in the ride.

After fueling up I went to the adjacent BJ's high up on a hill. This area ALWAYS cause the car to choke a little when starting eve through the treck up the hill feels fine. So this time for shiz-n-gigz I took off that elbow and went into the store.

I get out and start the car, it rumbled a little but did not choke like before and the light did NOT come on; which I've learned means everything and nothing. The whole ride home, about 10 miles, no light. Car sat for 20mins then went to get pizza down the street, no light.

The feel on the other hand feels heavier but does not struggle through rpms.

I'll check back after this morning commute.

**update

Started the car for 5 minute( for my comfort not the let the engine warm). Came back to the car and noticed the engine light on. I turned it off, let it sit for a few minutes then turned it over again. No light for the whole commute. I do understand that after clearing the issue it does take the computer a few long trips to understand and correct the code. So far it looks good. Still not feeling that strength of the supercharger though. One thing at I time I suppose.

Is this the same intermittent code you had before? did you ever get it scanned properly yet?

I had one that would pop up, or not at random times like yours. Screwed around with the EGR tube and stuff, but ended up replacing the EGR for it to go away. You need to read that code.

I'm frustrated trying to find someone with a scanner to find out.

I own 2 scanners, one for OBD-1 and another for OBD-2 (and OBD-1); both will not read the codes from my 1995-GM OBD 1.5 system even with the cable adapters.

I had it done once at Mineke, they gave me the codes and located the issue for $50.There was a leak at the connection of the EGR-tube. Codes read, MAF high MAF LOW, TPS LOW. All of which were replaced and still I get some sort of code. Not going to spend that again. Just can't. This car has been all about What-Ifs. My mechanic fixes what he thinks was broke, problem persists but says "oh it needed to be replaced soon" and on to the next repair. Too much work but luckily it is driveable and not crazy. I just feel how different it has changed since I've owned it.

I know Actron makes a scanner that will work, just wish I knew before spending soo much money already. If it gets to the point where I can't figure it out on my own that's the day it gets trucked off.

Actron 9185 !

The cheapest one on Amazon is $240!

Too much!

I got the CP9145 ages ago for around 89$.

Hard to find now though. And the newer models are more expensive. Might be able to source one on ebay though?

Will the CP9145 read OBD 1.5?

Sure will. It was one of the only things that would back when I started scanning.

I love that scanner. It's paid for itself time and time again, especially for reading the stupid OBD 1.5. Also, that scanner reads a TON of parameters for the Series I/OBD1 and 1.5. Even knock retard. If you can find it, grab it.