a/c delete?

When I started the 98 Riv this morning there was a terrible clattering/grinding sound from under the hood. A bit of checking about and I've determined that the a/c compressor clutch/pulley is shot. The clutch isn't engaging well, and it's making a terrible racket, and you can see some metal shavings stuck to the outer part of the clutch.

So reading these forums and talking to a local a/c guy, it sounds like a waste of money to replace the clutch - chances are the compressor and dryer will need to be replaced too. This is about an $800 job here, and where I live you need a/c maybe one month a year, so it just doesn't seem worth it. I'm leaning towards deleting the a/c altogether, something I did on my Toyotas for perfomance reasons, with no issues, but in those cases I just pulled the compressor and put on a smaller belt. (I think the older supras even had a dedicated ac belt?)

Anyways, I see I can pick up a bypass pulley online for about 50-60 bucks shipped. Just wondering, has anyone actually done this? It will mean disconnecting the electrical for the a/c - does anyone know if this will cause a problem? Anything else i might want to watch out for?

It won't throw a light or anything. You can just remove the compressor and add in the bypass pulley. Then if you want you could repair the clutch, sell it, or just leave it off. Its pretty easy.

if rockauto ships to canada then they have it for cheaper than any of the vendors ($24)

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1022038,parttype,10329

Yeah thanks Matthew, I found that but shipping is $31 to here - I can get it local for $40 plus tax so I'm going to do that,

a/c delete done - took about 1 hour once the system was evacuated to remove the compressor and put in the bypass pulley. The Dorman pully matches perfectly on the compressor bracket, no need to shim it or anything.

I did find I had to remove the bracket to get the compressor out - 4 easy bolts, if you ever remove one save yourself the trouble of trying to angle it out around the bracket.

Two years later... Has anyone done a/c delete for performance?

Any power gains?
Guesses on total weight reduction if everything is removed?
Any unforeseen problems that could occur?

Just started thinking about this because i hardly ever use my a/c, and i dont feel like spending $$$ to have the condensation sucked out and refilled with freon.

AC shuts off when you hit WOT, so power gains are moot if any, imo. And because our engines make so much torque at low RPM, MPG gains are also very little. My car shows no measurable MPG improvement with AC off.

I haven't deleted mine because it gets used daily. I do notice a slight power drop with it on, but it's worth it for me.

if you take it all out save the peices i need good replacements lol

Call me stupid, but I went ahead and did it. AC didn't work, ac pulley had a weird grind, and I never use ac anyway (Windows down type of guy), so I took everything out.

Total weight savings= 27 pounds.
Total power gained= probably 0

I'm putting a trans cooler where the condenser used to be.

I wouldn't call you stupid! At least you realize the power gains aren't significant, but the weight savings is absolutely real. My (original) AC pump started leaking last summer. I've recharged it a few times, and it's time to swap out. I picked up a low-mile replacement for $75 at a local yard, will be replacing soon.

But - if I didn't drive the car in the summer, I might do the same as you!

I did it on the 98 a few years ago. AC clutch was firing out metal chips, so since the wife is more of a windows down sunroof open sort of girl, I just put in the bypass. Weight savings, nothing more.

For my jag m112 project onto the 95 I had intended to try and relocate the alternator to the AC location to make more room up top, but that project is stalled at this point.

I'm just happy that unnecessary weight is gone!
27 pounds is worth it in my opinion.

What happens when you're running defrost and the computer calls on the AC to do an offseason cycle? I presume nothing but I've often given that process some thought when it comes to MPG with defrost running.

IFallsRon wrote:

What happens when you're running defrost and the computer calls on the AC to do an offseason cycle? I presume nothing but I've often given that process some thought when it comes to MPG with defrost running.

The wire to the nonexistent compressor goes hot, and nothing else changes. It's just drawing fresh air and not able to dehumidify it at all. Not a problem if you manage your airflow properly. (always keep a small amount of fresh warm air blowing on the windshield in the winter and you won't have a problem)

You could simulate what will happen by unplugging your AC compressor if you want to see what it's like. For most of the northern half of the country it's not a dealbreaker to have no AC (for many people, not all). Nice on the occasional hot august day, but I kept my windows and sunroof open 80% of my summer driving. All highway driving is a different story though - it's nicer to keep the windows closed at high speed.

How was it getting the lines off of the compressor and out of the way? I'm deleting soon on my winter Riv and need all the research I can get.