LED conversion of interior lights?

Has anyone done this? The interior lights I have looked at so far are different from any LEDS I have seen on the internet. I converted my '91 Mercedes easily. They are mostly bayonet-based for tail/turn signals. My Riv lights are not. So, anybody taken this on and/or is this the right topic to be asking on?

John Redman
2 '95s and the new one, a '97

Fuggedabuttit - Link

Then again . . .

Turtleman got some to work - Link

See and heed the links... Thinking about it, you can do it but you'll have to also install a bunch of Wheatstone bridges and resistors to get them to light when you want and go out when you don't. The trunk light operation, for instance, depends in part on a 'keep alive' bleed through the lamp that is not enough to make the filament glow. When the switch closes, it gets enough current to illuminate the filament. If you simply install an LED, the LED won't actually go out if installed correctly and won't enable the circuit if you install it backwards.

The interior front dome/reading lights won't work with the switches if you install the LEDs one way and won't work with the doors if installed the other way.

Why?

You could say that the Riv has '90s electronics wired into a '50s wiring harness that requires a floating ground.

...meaning that sometimes lamps are switched "off" by raising both terminals to +12V and sometimes switched on by making some terminal that would be grounded, hot.

This is why weird gremlins happen when the battery gets low.

This is why certain basic circuits still function when compromised.

This is also why it is vexing to modify the Riv's electronics -- it's not that hard but you have to figure out the potentials in the circuit at the point you're modifying, not just wire from apparent "hot to ground" at points of convenience. Hobbyist-level experience designing and building circuits will help.

Crazy stuff. I'm happy with the "old school" ambience.

Well slap me down. Thanks. I was just thinking of reducing drain on battery. But my new shut-off switch stops it all. On the other hand, the LEDS I put in the '91 Mercedes are a whole lot brighter.

The battery drain is a bummer. I've been using a battery tender on mine. It costs more but it keeps the battery "conditioned" (not sure what it's doing, but it spends a lot of time doing it) and the clock stays set.

JohnBoanerges wrote:

Well slap me down. Thanks. I was just thinking of reducing drain on battery. But my new shut-off switch stops it all. On the other hand, the LEDS I put in the '91 Mercedes are a whole lot brighter.

No slapdown intended at all, just a little detail so you're aware of why weird stuff happens if you try this along with some insight into how to work around the problems.

AFAIK the LEDs can be installed to illuminate the climate control - they are already used in the control's indicators. To do that requires some disassembly and some soldering. However, the incandescent lights hit the "eye ease green" color of the other dash lights better. There is a write up on this on this site.

https://www.carknowledge.info/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/mercedes-benz-190e-wiring-diagram-instrument-panel-lamps-1-1991.jpg

I looked at a '91 Merc 190E diagram for the instrument lights. On your Mercedes did you use LEDs in the instrument panel as well as the interior cabin, and how did the dimming functions work once the LEDs were installed?

I converted the entire interior of my 1970 GS455 to LED lighting.  The difference was night and day.  The interior lighting really pops now.  It was very easy, plug and play.  The 194 LED bulbs I used were not polarity sensitive.  They would work in the Riv wherever a 194 bulb fits like in the door.  The dash lights in the riv are solder in though.

I have left the exterior of my 70 stock incandescent except for the license plate and trunk lights. If you convert the exterior lights, the LED lights create a problem with the stock flasher units. I could convert the 4 marker lights as they use the 194 bulbs.

One thing to be mindful off is if you are converting a bulb that uses a colored lens, like in the Riv door (red), get a red LED 194. The white ones will actually bleach out the lens as they are so much brighter.

LARRY70GS wrote:

Wow.

Did you make those speaker adapters yourself?

DeepFrozen wrote:

LARRY70GS wrote:

Wow.

Did you make those speaker adapters yourself?

No, they are commonly available for all GM A bodies,

https://www.retromanufacturing.com/products/kick-panels-for-1968-72-buick-skylark-with-factory-air-conditioning

https://customautosoundmfg.com/product/custom-fit-speakers/kickpanels?&autoMake=&autoModel=all-buicks&product=kchv-68-2a

I've installed LEDs throughout my interior ('98) and exterior, with the exception of headlamps, which are reasonably bright HIDs.
I guess I'll have to investigate if my trunk light stays on, but I love the increased luminance everywhere. I feel a luxury car shouldn't have night light ambience.
Yes, the courtesy lights flicker rather than fade. Not ideal, but the incandescents are too subtle for me. I'll flicker along until someone makes LEDs that are bright and work, or brighter non-LEDs.
Suggestions welcome

JohnBoanerges wrote:

Well slap me down. Thanks. I was just thinking of reducing drain on battery. But my new shut-off switch stops it all. On the other hand, the LEDS I put in the '91 Mercedes are a whole lot brighter.

We'll be dealing with the battery drain on Riv either after it returns from the installation of the new set of tires from 4Wheelonline. Shut-off switch sounds the best solution.

LARRY70GS wrote:

DeepFrozen wrote:

LARRY70GS wrote:

Wow.

Did you make those speaker adapters yourself?

No, they are commonly available for all GM A bodies,

https://www.retromanufacturing.com/products/kick-panels-for-1968-72-buick-skylark-with-factory-air-conditioning

https://customautosoundmfg.com/product/custom-fit-speakers/kickpanels?&autoMake=&autoModel=all-buicks&product=kchv-68-2a

Nice, I wish those were available for Chrysler b-body.

It looks amazing.

I had no idea the electronics are so antiquated on this car. When I had my remote start installed (which works perfectly) I wanted to add the heated seat and power to the windows to be able to roll them down removing the heat from the car before I enter. My 12v guy told me the car did not have any more available inputs or outputs.

I did put led lighting in my 99 trans am which made a nice difference.

Can you share the brand and model of remote starter you installed?

https://www.dronemobile.com/
Compustar remote start with a two way remote and drone mobile. The key is all in the quality of the install

Thanks.
I have a Compustar 2 way on my SUV. Works very good except I seem to trip it into valet mode once in a while. Not really sure why, but it's easily righted. I like the 3000 ft range.

So, the Drone thing... is that software or is hardware also required?

Also, what systems can you control, if any on a 1998 OBDII car? I imagine you have to have the heat on when you shut down the car for it to be on when it starts remotely? Or does Drone add features.

Wondering what it cost, ball park?

I have a Tint World franchise close to me. They can handle install.

The drone is a module that can be added to your existing setup and it is also a yearly subscription service of about 60 bucks for cell phone access. I needed to start my car at work since it's further than 3,000 ft and there's lots of buildings.

It's about 200 bucks plus 60 a year and of course it will start the car and if your climate control is on it will operate it. The unit plugs into the brain of the remote start. You will get a one month free trial once it's installed.