OH NO... Got my oil change.......SOLVED

97 Riv, SC, stock....
Well, i took the Riv and got the oil changed this morning... No problem, except they didnt have a stock air filter... No problem went down the street, got the filter and came back to let them install. Had them vaccuum out the air box while they had it open.
When I left w/new filter installed.... Engine running fine till you put the throttle down hard, then it shakes pretty bad and doesn't have the pep it did b-4....
So, rather than have the oil jockeys trouble shoot, I brought it home and did a lil testing. First, I pulled the filter completely out and tried a test drive just in case it was something to do with the filter itself. Only minor improvement. It seem like the engine is missing badly, but I cannot see why.
Then as long as I had the cover off the air box, thought I'd pull the red insert... as son as I puled out the insert and went for a test drive, the SES light came on. Didn't want that so in the process of putting that insert back in, I busted the O2 sensor.....
Still regardless, that shouldn't cause shakink/missing under heavy accelleration.... Any Ideas?
Also, can I disable that O2 sensor easily?

Bill, when they took off the Air Box cover did they unplug the IAT sensor?

No, they pulled the air tube, then just slid the cover twards the engine compartment till it cleared and they could reach the filter to swap.

Can that IAT be disabled?

#1BearsFan wrote:

Can that IAT be disabled?

mine just chills in the fenderwell area.................

Just guessing but I would say the MAF sensor has taken a crap. No idea why it happens or how but I have had the same thing happen twice(2000 Regal LS and 95PA)...
But when it happened to me it was a few days after the work was done when the trouble started.
Bert

98riviera98 wrote:

#1BearsFan wrote:

Can that IAT be disabled?

mine just chills in the fenderwell area.................

mine too

if u wanted to be really cool u could get a oil filter for a blazer like me

palermocorey90 wrote:

98riviera98 wrote:

#1BearsFan wrote:

Can that IAT be disabled?

mine just chills in the fenderwell area.................

mine too

if u wanted to be really cool u could get a oil filter for a blazer like me

holy shit batman........... i already have been doing that since this thread....
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/care-maintenance-f8/pf-52-oil-filter-t2530.htm?highlight=blazer+oil+filter

werd me too

Look around the MAF and throttle body.....make sure they didnt unplug any sensors or vacuum connections....

I bet it has nothing to do with the air filter....look under the car....I had my wifes '98 cavilier taken to jiffy lube to change the oil, and the guy in the pit snagged his glove on a sensor and pulled it loose....it wouldn't shift out of first.....then the little zit faced fucker tells me that "this is the way it was when I brought it in..."

So I climb under the car, see this wire connection hanging down, plug it in, tell the punk to go back to school, start the car and drive off.....problem solved....

OK... Udate...
Went to AutoZone and had them put the reader on... Cyl 4 misfiring. That explains the rough run and shaking, just dont understand why all of a sudden and immediately after changing the air filter.... Coinsidence??? Maybe. Just got back and have it sittin in the shade with the hood up to cool off so I can reach the plug wire without char-broiling my arm and hand. Gonna try and pull the wire and plug to see if I can see any issues.. I ordered a new IAT for the airbox while I was there... Now I am gonna gut the airbox for sure. Holy schnikee, what were they thinking when they put that restrictive red plate in the airbox hood? Looks like a waste of space to me...restricts airflow to about 50% of the filter!

I bet that oil boy pulled that plug loose...BASTARDS!!!!!

*shakes fist at little oil*

Chicken wrote:

I bet it has nothing to do with the air filter....look under the car....I had my wifes '98 cavilier taken to jiffy lube to change the oil, and the guy in the pit snagged his glove on a sensor and pulled it loose....it wouldn't shift out of first.....then the little zit faced fucker tells me that "this is the way it was when I brought it in..."

So I climb under the car, see this wire connection hanging down, plug it in, tell the punk to go back to school, start the car and drive off.....problem solved....

On our 2000 Regal one of the quick lube pit boys crammed his hand up through the splash shield to change the oil filter and it pushed the wiring harness for the RF wheel up against the harmonic balancer...

Approx. 3 miles later I got a warning light...

Bert

*shakes fist*

Yeah... guess I will buy a set of ramps and do the oil myself....
Just went and bought new plugs.. gonna change em out and see where I am at afterward.

The god news... The SES light went out when I changed plugs, and it is a little smoother now, but I think my #6 plug is still bad and DAMITALL I just couldn't get that pig out. Couldn't get the cap off it actually. The other 2 in the back were a hassle, but not impossible. Just that last one in the back on the drivers side. (#6)
Any suggestions before I make an appointment to have someone else doit?

relax....step back....yell at it...have a drink....take a breath and try it again.....

twist the boot a little helps.
are you trying it from the top or the bottom?

Quote :

That explains the rough run and shaking, just dont understand why all of a sudden and immediately after changing the air filter.... Coinsidence???

Most of our SES lights illuminate after repeated fault detections over multiple engine starts. If the misfire was detected, say after 3 start attempts, it throws the code and a light. SES lights can also go out by themselves using this same system. Different codes use different numbers of starts to report their faults.

The back plugs can all be done from the top of the engine, passenger side. It helps to be slender enough to fit your body between the hood and the support rod. #6 is hardest, but easier to get at from the passenger side.

What did the spark plug from #4 look like?

The 2 back plugs that i got out were pretty bad, worse than the front 3.
I can reach the #6 plug from the passenger side, but I just cant get enough power on it to pull the cap, tried twisting but at that angle also very difficult. Gave it a break for today. Gonna try again tomorrow morning when it is nice and cool out.

If all else fails I will jack it up and try coming from underneath over the exhaust from the passengers side, looks roomy from there and as I am a righty I will be able to use my favored hand to pull it. Can only reach with my left from the top on the passenger side.

Sounds like a couple possibliities.

1) were the front and rear plugs different brands? You would not be the first 2nd or 3rd owner of a Riv who discovered plug maintanance only 1/2 done... if those plugs were different brands most likely some "genius" decided to only change the fronts at least once in the past.

2) might want to use a spark plug wire puller (ask the counter guy at a NAPA or CarQuest, they are kinda like pliers) to get at that rear plug wire. They are not always necessary, but always helpful if the wire is stuck for some reason.

3) if your mileage is over 50,000 consider changing the wires. The OEM wires are great, I'd use those or Magnecor wires.

Albertj

I guess they pulled the wires to inspect them, to try to sell you new wires too. They probably didn't reinstall them properly and now the plugs are fouled.

I never go to quick-anything places, there is no such thing as "good, fast" repair work. That's why I do it all myself.

Well, heres the next chapter in the continuing saga......
I went and bought a floor jack today cause the shop wants $120 to change 1 plug and install my new wires that I ordered. Screw that... I'd rather do it myself. Also, with the new jack, i will be doing my own oil changes as well. Screw-em all!
OK, so now that I have actually changed 5 of 6 of my plugs... still running rough so I went back to the Zone and had them hook me back up. Now instead of cyl4 misfire, it shows "random misfire".
I will jack it up and change #6 plug tonight. New wires wont get here till Wednesday, so that will be my Wednesday evening project.
In the meantime i will be reseating the cables/connector for the MAF, Ignition module, etc etc etc.... If it is just a bad connection I will find it...
Thanks to everyone for your great suggestions, dont worry, i will post the results when all is well.