tortuga

turtleman wrote:

It's a good thing I love this car and plan to keep it forever

FUCK YEAH
 

Codith, do you have anything about your l26 swap here?

charlieRobinson wrote:

Codith, do you have anything about your l26 swap here?

Pretty much page 9-13 covers it
I got the complete long block June '11 in preparation for a future build and then the build was suddenly prompted that December to get done because the JP single timing set in my original engine broke. My original was still salvageable but I had a fresh L26 sitting there so yeah

I picked up the tortuga today!
Trans is tighter than Miley's ass! :D    Actually, I felt the difference through the trip as I drove it 3 hours home and sorta broke it in. It's really nice now. I really don't notice the difference with the gear ratio so much which is fine. I feel like the torque converter and clutches are a lot less unhappy as it does the same thing every time I push it instead of wild-card shifting.
And yeah Dave at triple edge performance said it was the input shaft that snapped and all my clutches were burnt to hell. Apparently I could use some new outer tie rod ends as well. They are all wibbly wobbly I guess.
Now I need to get back with Prj and re-tune the car after swapping the fixed frequency AFC for an adjustable one so we can set it to a less severe maf skew before fully tweaking the trans settings because the trans line pressures and such reference the maf frequency. I could sluggishly do that myself I guess but I trust Paul over me seeing as I sort of just learned the proper philosophy of maf tuning that I hadn't been doing this whole time.

PS the rental car this time was a 2013 chevy sonic. It was a bit more interesting and feature-full than the yaris for sure as it had steering wheel controls, cruise control (thank god), a non-proprietary means to connect a music device to the radio, manual shift mode, and a cigarette lighter that works so my gps lasted the whole trip this time! I didn't really push the car or anything but that tranmission was kinda drivin me nuts. Everything it did felt wrong. There was no getting used to it, it just sucked. Interior was pretty normal except for the gauge cluster that looks like it was taken right out of a sport bike.

If there isn't a video within the next week you will have deeply hurt my feelings.

Glad to hear shes good to go!

Great news! On the trans fluid pressures, I wasn't aware MAFF affected the pressures. Mine are arranged by torque steps, which should be derived from throttle %. There are 32 steps for each gear.

AA wrote:

On the trans fluid pressures, I wasn't aware MAFF affected the pressures.

MAF will affect the trans on any car...especially a skewed one. If you look up MAF codes and they're descriptions, they tell you to ignore all trans codes and related shifting concerns until you fix the MAF problem.


Cool shit Turtle. Happy to hear you're back up and running.

great news! TEP is great too. You'll be happy with their work.

That's what my maf table is right now with the fixed frequency AFC and I more or less have a truthful number in my injector flow rate table with the only lie being a compensation for using e85. I did it that way so that if I have to run gas at some point, I just change the IFR which worked really nice when I switched to e85. I could counter-scale the IFR to help the maf table but regardless, that AFC is multiplying way more than necessary even with nitrous.

Still don't get how it affects fluid pressure, but I can see how that's a bad situation for fuel delivery.

AA wrote:

Still don't get how it affects fluid pressure, but I can see how that's a bad situation for fuel delivery.

I'm gathering that somehow the calculated torque that the trans tune uses is based in part off of the raw maf hz values so if your maf is way different than stock, it does things even if your maf calibration table is 'tuned' right. I'm not entirely sure about it all, there's a lot of grey in tuning I find.

The PCM uses throttle position to control shift time. The PCM uses the MAF frequency as Calculated Load (Engine load) to apply line pressure. This is why you can tune the trans as much or as little as you want. If the MAF reading is off, it will cause the trans to command too little or too much line pressure at a certain TP angle, with the shift time staying the same. Most cars with a bad MAF reading shift very harsh because the PCM is forced to ignore MAF, therefore ignoring Calculated Load and operates the vehicle on base values.

I wish they would've labeled the Ft/lb steps in the DHP tables a little less vaguely.

Ft/Lb steps in Shift Time = TP %

Ft/Lb steps in Shift Pressure = Calculated Load based on the MAF table

I'm gonna start playing with the afc. The first thing I want to do to test is set the adjustable afc to exactly like the fixed and make sure it behaves the same then I'll probably start playing with it myself.

Other things:
Dave mentioned my outer tie rod ends were bad. I just checked my log and I replaced them 4-30-10 at 193,124mi (At about 219k now) with a new set of TRW. I probably re-greased them once since then when I did the cradle swap but yeah, I'm not very impressed with the longevity of those. I have a spare set of new Moog here so I'll install those monday or tuesday and then get my 4 wheel alignment.

I was waiting to get the car back so I could make sure the parts were gonna be right but I'm finally ordering all new clips for the front fender chrome trim since a bunch of those are broken due to old age and multiple dis-assemblies and it always looks like crap with the chrome trim separated from the fender in spots. GMpartsdirect had the best unit pricing for it but since you can only order in the 10 packs, I went with Paceperformance.com instead because they let me order individually. 14 of 25639946 and 4 of 25639947.

I'm gonna order a few nitrous jets so that when I do get the maf straightened out, I can tune the nitrous pretty quick and be at the 100whp shot I'm looking to be at and get some good 1/4 passes in this year. It's pretty cool that I have a transmission that can actually handle spraying through shifts no problem now!

I installed tie rods and just got an alignment done. Did all four wheels since I never got to the rear after doing the custom adjustment links.



I did that rear toe purely by intuition and it was within spec! I was surprised. Neither my tech friend or I could figure any way to correct that right rear camber thing goin on although I didn't think to try messing with ride height at the back. Apparently my front left camber was off a good bit to the point it needed one camber bolt to correct and toe was obviously off due to my new tie rod end install. On the 2-3mi drive home, the car felt great. Now I need to order those billet sway bar bushing mounts and it'll be set.

Think you can get it on a dyno for us now that everything's said and done?

  You should be at least -.4* Camber on both front wheels. Unless , of course you wanted them perfectly flat. Same with the toe. I'd go with more like -.07* to -.10* for that. It makes the front end much more responsive without eating tires. Of course, you do have meats on there....

Abaddon wrote:

  You should be at least -.4* Camber on both front wheels. Unless , of course you wanted them perfectly flat. Same with the toe. I'd go with more like -.07* to -.10* for that. It makes the front end much more responsive without eating tires. Of course, you do have meats on there....

The camber like that was the recommendation of the tech for max accel grip after looking at my tires.

matt270avian wrote:

Think you can get it on a dyno for us now that everything's said and done?

Everything said and done is a hard point to put a finger on. Once I'm legitimately happy with the tune and I have nitrous dialed in, I'll get to a dyno pull.

There is so much I'm changing with the interior instruments, I have to do it in like steps. Anyway the first thing since I have the pillar back now was to move the aeroforce gauges there. I'd already made a whole custom harness for it because I was having connectivity issues with the OBD plug and I didn't really want 20 lbs of unnecessary wiring and crap in there so now I basically added a plug to it and made a nice pillar harness to make it easier to service if I pull the pillar off the car in the future and whatnot. This was a pretty tedious process.

There's the splicy dealys that I used to tap into the OBD wires so the plug is free for tuning, emission, etc.



setting up the molex connector for the pillar side
yes, I'm using a freakin candle to shrink the insulator tube lol

pillar done


Much better location for those gauges! also the warning lights for KR and stuff are set up to work in progression so the bottom one comes on at 2deg, the middle one comes on at 4, the top one at 6 so I really don't need to watch the KR number. Where the gauges were before, you could see the lights but it was hard to tell without looking what was goin on. Once I get to step 2, the oil pressure, nitrous pressure, and for now volt meter will go down there. None of that is really time critical information so that location is perfect for them.

also tuning stuff,


What the F is the deal with spark timing? I have these random low spikes like this just all the time it seems like where timing just checks out for a second, makes the engine stumble and then has to recover. I don't see anything happening to lead up to that so I don't even know if a drop in spark timing is causing something or something is causing a drop in spark timing.

And for my 3000th post on rivperformance...



the most pointless thing I could find on my phone from recently; something I obviously thought was hilarious when I was really drunk and even took a picture of it

EDIT: a normal person would probably think I was laughing my ass off at the post below about drunk pregnant mom babies n shit but I'm sure what was killin' me was the facebook post stating Robin added 0 pictures!

We're brothers now! Nice gauge pod set-up!

I popped this little guy on and was about to start doing some maf logs and then rain
I'll have to start playing more another day but I can say right now I'm gonna need to data-log my autometer pressure gauge if I want real boost values because it turns out the stock map sensor is limited to 2bar. Just what I want to do... more wiring..

Turtle really does not give one single fuck, does it? B000st for dayzzzzzz!!!!

I can hear the screams from here..