I have a tube of the correct sealant (Anaerobic Gasket Maker) in front of me and it says:
#1 - For making and dressing gaskets of all shapes and sizes.
#2 - Fills surface imperfections and cures quickly (how fast I don't know)
#3 - Ideal for aluminum and cast iron flanges.
This product along with the Surface Prep Activator should be available at all auto parts stores. When you use it with the Activator it will fill and seal gaps up to 0.050'. Once cured DO NOT RE-TORQUE as it will break the seal and you will have to start all over. Clean, Activate, Apply and Torque - Done.
But, as AA (Aaron) has said, check the mating surfaces with a straight edge and make sure they are flat. If the snout surface seems porous, Tape a piece of 600 grit sandpaper to a flat bench or piece of steel and put surface of snout down on sandpaper and rotate snout to get rid of any imperfections to a degree that the sealant will work.
Make sure surfaces are super clean after and if you have done the sandpaper trick make sure you spray the inside of snout with something like BrakeClean or Acetone to remove any abrasive, dirt or oil from the surfaces.
Clean the supercharger side with a lint free rag soaked in cleaner as well.
Buy some Permatex Surface Prep Activator and apply to one surface only, let dry for one to two minutes only, then apply a continuous bead of (I Use) Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker to the opposite or unprimed surface. Anaerobic Gasket Maker as well as any Anaerobic product will not work at all if there is any dirt or oil on the surface to be sealed. Even oils you can't see. So once cleaned properly, do not touch with your fingers.
Assemble the mating surfaces with minimal lateral movement, try very hard to put these two together without moving them and spreading the sealant bead around, otherwise it will leak.
Install your bolts and tighten them in sequence and evenly to the recommended torque.
Once torqued you can wipe any excess sealant from the flanges with solvent.
Good luck this time around.
