CV Joint & Axle/Shaft Replacement

Thanks, I plan on replacing both of mine with new bearings also. I'm hoping it can wait until spring. No noises yet just enough play in everything, so I want new, young and tight again!

the nut for the inside nut is 22mm, but you dont have to take that loose. the only one that you might have to take loose is the castle nut on the tie rod where it connects to the steering knuckle, and that should be an 18mm.

i just looked up the half shaft on oreilly's website here goes the link..

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/ProductDetail.do?id=1828322660&line=MSV&itemNumber=GM8167&manualReplCategoryIndex=9&vehicle=1996BUICKRIVIERAV6-3800%203.8L&bid=1224390271180&cycleCount=2344¤tPage=0

thats brand new not reman

I've already got the steering knuckle free. The only link still connected is the sway bar. Should I just be able to unscrew the end off while bracing the tie rod with a wrench? Also, do I need to get an alignment after I get the new LBJ (Lower Ball Joint) and OTRE (Outer Tie Rod End) on? I got my reman from O'Reilly, they didn't have any new ones in stock.

In my experiences the sway bar end links can be very corroded and difficult to get off without either breaking the bolt from trying or just cut it off and replace. I know that's not what you wanted to hear. oh shit replace another part, but if they are old and haven't been replaced in years it's a good idea to replace them now. I think you can buy just one side as a complete kit, bolt, spacer rubber bushings etc. If the rubbers look old, dry and compressed, cracked I would replace both sides they are cheap and they help with the handling of the car somewhat. If you want to try to re-use old one soak with a good penetrating spray and good luck trying to get it loose. I think a new one is around $15.00. and to answer your question yes you can just unbolt them, they are not under a lot of pressure by the sway bar. They won't go sailing on you. Also, from looking at O'Reilly's web site it looks likes the Reman half shafts units carry a lifetime warranty so save receipts.
And yes I would get an Alignment after your done. If you didn't measure / count the number of exposed threads on old tie-rod and replaced with new one exactly the same you could have a toe-in or out issue. If you haven't removed it yet, make mark on the threads of the old tie-rod right where it contacts the threaded coupler (the piece it screws into) i use a hacksaw and score the threads, that way after you remove it you wire brush if necessary and count how many exposed threads there were and install new one exactly the same. Ball joint replacement may cause a camber adjustment to go out. If you can't remember when last alignment was done it would be good thing to have checked anyway. (More $) Good luck with your project and hope all goes well.

The Insomniac!

ssoooo...does anyone have a surefire method of drilling out rivets?

Rivets? Are you doing the ball joint? I prefer to buy the complete lower control arm.

Otherwise, you need to centerpunch the round top of a rivet pretty deep or your drill bit will just keep rolling off. Another option is to cut the top off as close as you can with a sawzall and then smash it through with a drift pin, but that's also hard to do without risking a lot of damage to the control arm.

What rivets are you working on??

It's the lower ball joint, Derek. I'm getting them drilled out but it's taking alot of time, thus draining the battery on my cordless drill. Rick, thanks for suggesting to take a look at the sway bar links, I took one out and it's eaten almost halfway through. I love working on my car but I wish I could drive it.

So the problem is the rivet drilling itself? Make sure you have sharp drill bits, a hella strong drill (plulg-in 1/2" drill usually good enough) and use oil on the drill bit tip.

What would oiling the tip do? The bit is plenty sharp, it's brand new. I don't have a plug in drill or an outside electrical connection. Is there a type of bit that anyone would reconmend? I'm using one that's made for metal but it's a regular style bit. would a step bit work any better? What about a grinding wheel? Also, when I get the new Lower Ball Joint and Outer Tie Rod End put on will I need to grease them?

A little oil on the tip keeps it cooler and helps it cut easier. As far as sharpening your drill bits, it's an art. I know a few people who do it well, I suck at it and buy new bits from time to time.

You could probably grind the rivet head off with a grinding wheel, but again I'd be concerned about damaging the control arm.

Most OEM suspension parts are sealed (no grease), most aftermarket parts require grease. If there is a grease fitting, grease them.

So I got the tie rod and sway bar links on but it seems like it's too long. I've got it tightened down as far as I can and there's still like 3/4 of an inch of play in the bar. This seems wrong considering the one I took off fit perfectly. I'm assuming this is the wrong part but I want to make sure. The link isn't supposed to have any bolt showing right? (other than the head and threaded end)

I'm Not sure I know exactly what you mean. You are talking about the tie rod end aren't you or are talking about the sway bar.
If your talking about the sway bar, have you put the weight of the car back on the wheels yet?
After re-reading, it's obvious your having a problem with the sway bar link. And no there should not be a Gap of 3/4". Did you save the old one to compare and see if they might have given you the wrong part?

Sway bar, and no I haven't put the weight back on the wheels yet. That should come on Wednesday. I'm thinking they gave me the rear link instead of the front.

Very possible. Remove and compare.
I don't know if you found this lik or not, or if it is even any help to you. I only read the title and thought i'd paste it just in case.
https://rivperformance.editboard.com/Supercharged-3800-Tech-c2/Suspension-Handling-f6/Write-Up-Front-Rear-Stabilizer-Bar-Installation-t916.htm?highlight=write+-up

Thanks Rickw, I'll take a photo of my sway bar link and post it here so we can all speculate. Hopefully I'll get the ball joint on today.

This ball joint is really making me angry. I'm looking into replacing the whole control arm as suggested before.

WHAT'S WRONG?

I can't get the old ball joint off. I've drilled out the rivit heads and it still dosen't want to come off.

Are your lower control arms Steel or Aluminum.
If Steel beat on it with a BFH. If Aluminum be carefull. Support the under side of control with something before proceeding to beat the shit out of it. If nothing else you'll feel better.
You may need heat; as in Oxy/Acetylene.

Morad will send one to my front door for $55. Which is awesome considering the ball joint from GM is the same amount. Unfortunately I don't have the capability of any kind of torch considering I don't have a garage. Thanks for your advice Rickw but I think I'm gonna take Morad up on this one.

Sounds like your easiest and only way out.
Good Luck!

I've got it halfway off, I just need to pick up a torx head key to get the front bolt off. Does anyone know which is the proper size for that. There's only one holding it in. The other is a regular bolt.

I don't know, Anybody else help out?

Everyone else hates this thread.

I don't know, my '98 had hex bolt heads on the ctrl arm bolts.

It's gotta be T55 or T60 I would guess. Haven't seen Torx larger than T60... I bought a complete set of large torx sockets at autozone...

Thanks Derek, I'll check them out.

So Morad said it'll be $58.50 with sales tax (damn ohio.) It includes the joint which they say is in good shape and the bushings. I see why you guys like this company so much. The joint I got was $69.99 (MOOG) and if I'm lucky, I can get the T55 or T60 bit for $10. I'm going to Morad for all my expensive parts now, these guys rule. AA, since you seem to know most of the technicals about these cars, do you know the size of the torx bit I'll need?