Nightmare Transmission Rebuild

This is the passenger side. On the driver's side, there is no shiny part showing and it goes in right to the shoulder. I always thought there was something funny with how the passenger side stuck out when I did this job in the first place.

Anyways, I was just out side with the wheel off trying to force that sucker in as best as I could and it would NOT go any farther. Even with twisting it around and jimmying it back and forth. The dealer hinted at the fact that since it was an autozone reman, it might not be the right part or could be interfacing incorrectly. Either way, there seems to be a problem there since I'm loosing a little tranny fluid at that interface.

Aaron, if you have a pic that would be awesome, other wise if anyone could stick there head under there passenger side and let me know if it's supposed to be stuck out an inch like that, I would be very grateful.

The pictures of the remans on autozone/advanced auto/ etc. allude to there being that gap. However I'm not 100% sure.

did you give it a good shove? it has to go in.otherwise take it back to AZ and compare with another of the same. barring that,you are not trying hard enough to jam it into place.it is'nt that easy to do if you havent done it before on a Riv.you really have to get the CV to sit in,just right,before jamming it home.
a little leakage out the hole is normal.a gush is not.

Here's a picture of mine after I popped it out using a ratchet handle. It had been professionally installed ~85k miles before. Note the dirt line indicating the exposed part of the shaft. Kinda looks like yours, but even though mine doesn't go all the way in, I think yours is sticking out a little bit further, but hard to tell for sure. This could be the result of slight differences in the part manufacture, which may or may not mean it's improperly installed. Best way to tell is pull your axle and measure the machined edges. I have an extra CV shaft here, can compare to your measurements.

Another thing you might try is replacing the seal to see if the leak stops. If it does, I'd assume the shaft was properly installed.

Eck.. I'd say that axle isn't in all the way or it is not the correct length. When I replaced the driver side one on my Regal, it was a bitch to get out and put back in. I thought it was seated all the way in but the guy who was helping me told me to keep going with it. It went probably another half inch before it clicked into place. That could be causing the vibration you are feeling. Then again, I've read on a few 3800 sites of people buying axles from AZ and they being an odd size. Thus, even though they should fit okay, they don't.

Regardless, the CV boots should not be torn and that's definitely an issue with the shop.

Are you taking care of this in CT? Sounds that way.

Whenever I've had issues with a shop, I've gone right to the BBB and copied the Consumer Protection Division of the AG's office. That usually gets shops to crap their pants and take things seriously. I'd be interested in knowing who the shop was (you can PM me that info and I'd keep in confidential).

Best of luck.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I just got under the car again after driving about 150 miles today. I'm definitely losing fluid from that seal between the passenger CV and the tranny. I've had trouble with AZ CV's not fitting properly. Maybe I need to suck it up and the the actual GM part? What do you guys have in yours? Any remans? The tech at the dealership said the CV wasn't seating properly. I tried forcing it in with all my might and it wouldn't go any farther.

Couple questions.

If this CV is a poor fit by design, have I done any damage to the transmission or this seal by driving on it? I drive a lot (as of January). Sometimes up to 500 mi/week

Could me not having a rebuilt rear transmission mount have anything to do with this problem? I'd like to get it replaced this weekend.

I'm sure no damage.it's pretty tough steel down there.Call Morad auto parts,they will sell you a used OEM CV.A used unit is ten times better than a AZ part.

werdstrave wrote:

If this CV is a poor fit by design, have I done any damage to the transmission or this seal by driving on it? I drive a lot (as of January). Sometimes up to 500 mi/week

Maybe

werdstrave wrote:

Could me not having a rebuilt rear transmission mount have anything to do with this problem? I'd like to get it replaced this weekend.

Unlikely. If anything it will damage the exhaust seal from the rear manifold to the downpipe, but even that is hard to do.

Oh...I just remembered when I brought the car in for the transmission rebuild, it was diagnosed that this seal was already leaking on my old transmission. This is pointing me closer toward AZ's CV's being faulty. I've never done business with Morad. Looks like they sell used GM parts for the 3800. Sounds like I should pick up a CV from them.

I've bought axles from Morad and they work fantastic. He pulls the best looking ones from lower mileage (relatively) cars. I'd trust OEM for that and hub bearings way before I went with anything aftermarket.

Hope you get it sorted out.

I have a low-mile CV shaft purchased from Ed Morad a few months ago:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t8893-fs-front-right-axle-shaft-cv-joints-from-ed-morad-45-shipped

Aaron, seems like you did the same thing I did. I misdiagnosed and got all new (remanned) CV axles to correct the popping sound upfront. Unfortunately it was my cradle mounts (as you suggested in the first place). Such a headache. Last night I ordered 2 used CV axles from Morad to replace the remans and HOPEFULLY correct the seating issue and leak in the tranny.

I am not familiar with that union and do not fully understand why an unseated CV would cause a leak there. Would the fluid be leaking from the gasket seal there or from the hole where the CV shaft goes in?

I would replace the shaft seal for sure. It doesn't look like a difficult job, nor an expensive part.

Is there a write up on how to get the seal out and with what tools?

I found this on a saturn forum:

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157297

Would I need to drain the tranny fluid before I did this?

That's how I would go at it. No need to remove the sway bar, and would certainly have a clean catch pan ready, but I don't think a significant amount of fluid will escape.

Just ordered the seal. Plus the morad shafts are in the mail.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1022016,parttype,2336

Is there a way to get your CV axle out without loosening the suspension tower? The last few times I did them, I separated my lower ball joints and loosened my 3 suspension bolts that go into the frame. Is there a way I can do it without loosening these 3 bolts? Maybe take the A-arm off? I'm really just trying to avoid getting the car aligned.....It seems like I need to bend the suspension tower out of the way to back off the CV.

Remove the two strut bolts and swing the steering knuckle out. You can leave the lower ball joint intact. It takes some persuasion, but the shaft will come out this way, and my suspension did not require any realignment.

I thought that was where most of the alignment takes place. There's a lot of play for those bolts to move around in the notches in the strut when reinstalled....any way to guard against this?

It's possible the alignment is off slightly, but I didn't notice much play in the bolts. The ride and steering seemed unaffected, and no adverse tire wear so far. If you're concerned, might consider marking the location of the bolt caps on the strut with a fine permanent marker before removal.

DO NOT SEPARATE THE STRUT FROM THE BRACKET. Not only is it a huge PITA to do, it doesnt need to be done.

3 nuts on the top of the strut. Pop the lower ball joint. Remove wheel bearing. Slide out of way on tie rod end.

My rivi is on stands in the air. Waiting on CV axle now. $40 from Detroit axle, rebuilt.

If your CV axle isnt fitting right the spring clip could be screwed up. Or the old spring clip may be in there, somewhere? Pull it apart and inspect with a good flashlight.

Popping the lower ball joint is usually a PITA and usually results in screwing up the grease bladder. I did this and wound up needing to get a new ball joint. Ryan the way you described sounds like alignment city. I was trying to avoid an alignment at all costs. Let me know how your job goes, I am interested and will be tackling this in the weeks to come.

You know thinking about it I left the lower ball joint attached and split the tie rod end. Thanks for making me think.

Did this 3x's in my Alero and never needed an alignment.

I'm confused. You split the tie rod end from the knuckle, left the ball joint attached, and loosened the 3 nuts on top of the strut? And were able to get the axle out?

Thats correct.

Since its only attached by the lower ball joint you should be able to move it such as to pull the wheel part of the CV out of the round bracket where the wheel bearing mounts. If you are NOT removing the wheel bearing then you will probably need to pull the entire A Arm.

Im a person who learns by doing. Just dig deep and do what ya gotta do to get it done.