Charlie Robinson's '99 Riv

IIRC, just pop the vac line off the top of your bypass plunger to have it stay down all the time. (It'll idle a bit funny) Then test PSI, ease off throttle though don't just chop it; since it will always be trying to make boost.  That will rule out the control solenoid.  There's not really many other places you could be loosing 3 PSI of boost.

It does seem a few PSI low considering I make 12psi with this Karma blower (which is "bigger"). However, you are more free-flowing with the Cam. It does allow the air out of the engine faster, which eliminates LIM pressure. The deekster has already mentioned this to you.

BTW....you need headers should you continue to mod......

Quote :

Ya know, I dont really know or have any factual data to make the claim. I just think it's hard to believe im flowing enough air with my mods to only push 7 PSI with a 3.25".

Not saying your wrong, but that's kinda like saying you ran a 12.x sec quarter mile, but your trap speed needs to be higher... It's the result that's important, not the intangibles. Who cares what your boost reads? It's not an indicator of anything. Look at MAF. That tells you what's really important: how much air is actually moving through the engine. Look at A/F ratio, and more importantly power/torque numbers.

This is what breathing mods do. If you install a cam and open up the intake/exhaust, and boost drops to 7 PSI overnight, this is awesome. It means the engine is breathing better. MAF will tell the story, and a dyno run will prove the results.

@ WOT MAF readings are currently ~10,500 MHz and AFR is ~11.3, I do believe. I will post my latest scans when I get home tonight.

I am going to see what the 3.4" can pull in terms of MAF and boost PSI. If it's the same or close to the 3.25" then I probably have an issue , right?

If it's predictably less, than all is probably ok and I am just a hypochondriac for my car.

Scott, im taking the plog and DP as far as I can until I reach ~300WHP. I estimate to be around ~260WHP now.

AFR 11.3??!!!

Abaddon wrote:

AFR 11.3??!!!

too rich?


Thats with stock MAF table from  3500MHz+

Right, but your PE AFR doesn't technically apply to the MAF table. Once you hit PE, it uses whatever AFR you have it set to, and will add/subtract fuel accordingly to hit that AFR. That's why your Fuel Trim reads "0" every time you hit WOT, or whatever throttle position you have PE Enable set to. You can fine tune it all with the MAF table, but your base AFR is going to stay right around whatever you set it at. Stock AFR is 12.4 in PE mode. You may not be getting any KR, but you're probably losing power running that rich. You want to find a happy medium somewhere, and run as lean as possible to make the most power. Running that rich is just blowing fuel out the tailpipes. Have you monitored Injector Pulse Width when you go into PE? Have you changed your Injector Skew percentages or Flow rates?

I had to run 11.4 AFR before I put on the new S/C. I'm now set at 12.1 AFR in PE mode. I can only imagine that with a Cam, you should be somewhere closer to stock.

EDIT: I'm guessing your O2 reads ~950mV at WOT?

Quote :

@ WOT MAF readings are currently ~10,500 MHz and AFR is ~11.3, I do believe. I will post my latest scans when I get home tonight.

I found 11.5:1 to be the (power) sweet spot for mine, but you can't know A/F is until you use a wideband sensor. If you're looking at "commanded A/F", that's not telling you actual A/F ratio.

I meant MAF, not MAFF. Look at the mass air flow parameter, not the Hz. Then you'll know how much air is moving through the engine (hope you noted MAF before your mods as a baseline).

Someone with HPtuners, please help me here. I have tried all kinds of combos and I cannot get the scanner to read the IP width value.

I know it has to be there and I've tried everything i can think of to make it a scan variable but nothing I do seems to work. I dont seem to have an issue with any other parameter.

I have not changed my skew %s or flow rates. My PE AFRs are still set at the stock values too.

I think that's right with the O2 values. I have to check a scan to be sure.

AA wrote:

Quote :

@ WOT MAF readings are currently ~10,500 MHz and AFR is ~11.3, I do believe. I will post my latest scans when I get home tonight.

I found 11.5:1 to be the (power) sweet spot for mine, but you can't know A/F is until you use a wideband sensor. If you're looking at "commanded A/F", that's not telling you actual A/F ratio.
I meant MAF, not MAFF. Look at the mass air flow parameter, not the Hz. Then you'll know how much air is moving through the engine (hope you noted MAF before your mods as a baseline).

I didnt start scanning until I had some minor mods (plog, plugs, tstat, and 3.6") so I really dont have a true baseline. I will have to check MAF value to be sure.

Yes, I am looking at commanded. I do not yet have a wideband installed.

I'm pretty sure IPW is one of the available parameters in HPT. You shouldn't need to add anything out of the ordinary.

deekster_caddy wrote:

I'm pretty sure IPW is one of the available parameters in HPT. You shouldn't need to add anything out of the ordinary.

That's how it was for me. It was already on my table display under the default config.
Have you customized your config? Accidentally took it off? Anyway to add it on the table display (it needs to be on there to be used on the chart display btw) right click on an empty cell, insert and pick it off the list : PID list - Fuel System - Injectors - INJ Pulse Width

PE tune as I understand it does rely on the maf table and to a certain extent even learned fuel trims although the o2 sensor is ignored so there's no compensation at all if result AFR isn't agreeing with commanded AFR which is why ideally you really want to tune with a wideband in a car with any mods beyond very basic, at least if you want to get your PE tune dead on for power. The other thing that allows you to do is see how good your maf tune is on the higher end of the table without having to go WOT crazy on your engine with PE off which obviously is a little dangerous for the engine.

Yeah go ahead and throw on that 3.4 and get a comparison maf and boost reading.

turtleman wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

I'm pretty sure IPW is one of the available parameters in HPT. You shouldn't need to add anything out of the ordinary.

That's how it was for me. It was already on my table display under the default config.
Have you customized your config? Accidentally took it off? Anyway to add it on the table display (it needs to be on there to be used on the chart display btw) right click on an empty cell, insert and pick it off the list : PID list - Fuel System - Injectors - INJ Pulse Width

Yes, I did change the default config and it was removed before I added it back. Maybe thats it. I will check and make sure its on the table display so it works on the chart.
I have a feeling thats it.

Thank you

Did you all get a chance to listen to this vid I took?


So, as soon as I picked the car up at Bills place and started it, I noticed a ticking noise.
Bill said it sounded fine. I said,,, ok.
Since then ive spent hours researching post cam install valve noise. Ive read that LS7 lifters are notoriously noisy and figured it might just be that.

I havent had anyone else listen to it but I did send the video to turbo tim @ zzp.

This what he replied back with:
'We did have a batch of pushrods that we weren’t happy with.  Could you pull one and compare it to this picture?'


If you cant see the pic, let me know

Can't see the pic.

Ain't that some shit. If they end up being bad, are they going to cover the labor to fix them??!!

I hear the noise but it's fairly nondescript to me. It could possibly be something or it could be nothing at all. It sounds like the noise headers make. I know you don't have headers. I wanna see that picture tim sent you about the pushrods. It isn't really a super big deal to pull the valve covers and inspect stuff for anything out of the ordinary. The rockers and pushrods are very easy to get out and back in once the covers are off. My ls7 lifters didn't add any noise that I noticed btw. The OE-R's are really notorious for being loud but I've heard mixed things about the '7s.

I fixed the image. Please check it out.

I am 98% sure I got the BAD ONES.

My memory isnt perfect, but I do remember that font on the bad ones and not the good ones.


FRRRRIIIICCCKKKK

ZZP< WHY ARE YOU TORTURING MEEEEEE?!


"Each pushrod is laser etched with it's size and our logo. When you see the ZZP logo, you know you are spending your money on the best there is."

I don't really see what's bad about that pushrod. Is the picture just identifying what markings are on them to identify the bad ones?

Yes. The markings are used to identify the bad batch. Im nearly positive mine had the 'bad' engraving on them.

I asked Tim what makes them bad and if there has been any extreme failures with them. He has yet to reply.

Well, not so sure I wanna go race tonight now. Was really hoping to break into the 13s for the first time

It looks like the bad ones are just a tad short to my eye.

Hindsight is 20/20, but always take pics of your mod parts before installing. Not just for admiration, but for identification!

Wait... so they had "a batch of pushrods that we weren’t happy with." and a picture that clearly marks one type as "BAD" and yet they still sold them? and sold them recently?

yup.

I went from spun bearing to lifter tick, it seems...

Tim @ zzp wants me to pull one and take a picture of the engraving then we will go from there.

I expect ZZP to replace all the pushrods and pay for the install, if I really did get the bad set.

Let's see how they do.

ZZP has, in my experience, sent parts that were obviously bad. I don't believe they sent them on purpose, however upon contacting them, it was obvious they were aware of the issue. This made me wonder if they had tried to liquidate the remainder of bad stock. They were good on customer service response, and replaced the parts quickly at no extra charge. Still, made me wonder...

AA wrote:

ZZP has, in my experience, sent parts that were obviously bad. I don't believe they sent them on purpose, however upon contacting them, it was obvious they were aware of the issue. This made me wonder if they had tried to liquidate the remainder of bad stock. They were good on customer service response, and replaced the parts quickly at no extra charge. Still, made me wonder...

Man.. thats not good to hear.

I always thought ZZP was awesome but from my last big purchase with them, i've had more than 1 problem. to say the least.

If they knew they had bad pushrods that were sold and sent out, why was there no recall?

Why didnt I get an email saying, yo! you bought some of our pushrods recently and you may have received some bad ones!

check it out and let us know and we will make it right!


I dont get it.