Rack and pinion leaking

New stains in the driveway under the 97. Retired wrencher doing my brake job says the rack is leaking. He recommends Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak should do the job. Anyone with experience? He'll do a replacement for $200.

I tried the Lucas PS treatment once after finding my fluid was low. I have no idea where it was leaking from. That was more than a year ago, and seems to have cured the problem. Like the bottle says, it will stop seal leaks, but if there's another problem, maybe not. Worth a try!

Update. The leaking has gotten worse. My repair guy says the rack and pinion requires a replacement that has some kind of power assist because of the supercharger and the ticket is over $350. I haven't researched that option but looking around at what's available, I don't see any mention of a power assist.

That "power assist" is called Magna-Steer. If you look up at the rack, around the stub shaft, you'll see a 2 wire plug that plugs into the rack. It's a speed variable assist that tightens or loosens steering based on vehicle speed.

The whole repair is $350? Part included? I'd be jumping ALLLLL over that.

IFallsRon wrote:

Update. The leaking has gotten worse. My repair guy says the rack and pinion requires a replacement that has some kind of power assist because of the supercharger and the ticket is over $350. I haven't researched that option but looking around at what's available, I don't see any mention of a power assist.

for $350 just get it done...

what your steering guy is referring to is "magnasteer" unit on the rack.

New rack installed. Steering is somewhat stiff for power but figure it needs a few days of driving to loosen up.

IFallsRon wrote:

New rack installed. Steering is somewhat stiff for power but figure it needs a few days of driving to loosen up.

check that the magnasteer wire on the rack is seated properly.

check your tires for proper inflation.

when magnasteer is working right it makes the steering feel stiffer while you are in motion above I think 40 mph or so.  It lets go at low speeds, so for parking and city driving the steering feels very light and easy, even "overboosted".

if everything is right I think the degree of stiffness can be adjusted but don't quote me on that... Hopefully Abaddon will chime in... If it can be adjusted a Tech II scanner will be needed I think.

Tire replacement is next. I'll check the connection and look for anything unusual. Noticed yesterday it steered extremely hard when backing.

New rack cost $100. Wrencher's stepson manages a NAPA and has connections. Add a hose, fluid and labor and he asked for $220. I paid $250 and should have given more. The guy has saved me many $100s.

IFallsRon wrote:

Tire replacement is next. I'll check the connection and look for anything unusual. Noticed yesterday it steered extremely hard when backing.

New rack cost $100. Wrencher's stepson manages a NAPA and has connections. Add a hose, fluid and labor and he asked for $220. I paid $250 and should have given more. The guy has saved me many $100s.

you might want to check the pump. If the old fluid was used with the new rack that might be an issue. If tires were properly inflated, they were not the problem.

The steering has loosened but we're still tracking some leaky fittings. I was in the driveway a couple days ago when the daughter came home in the car. She made a tight turn, taxing the pump and the belt jumped the track. WTF? Belt was plenty slick. Still work to do.

Is anyone familiar with replacing the inner tie rod on our rack & pinion ?
thanke for any help.
Reattaron

Reattaron wrote:

Is anyone familiar with replacing the inner tie rod on our rack & pinion ?
thanke for any help.
Reattaron

You'll need to buy/rent an Inner Tie Rod tool to do it the "easy" way. You'll also have to figure out how to stick your hands in there and cut the OE clamps off of the boot somehow. There very well might be a plastic retainer ring over top of the OE Tie Rod as well that would need to be removed once the boot is off in order to fit the tool in there.
It's really not that hard, but might seem difficult the first time you try it.

Link to tool example

I've done this in two vehicles, not the Riviera yet (knock on wood). On my friend's VW Corrado (transverse mount VR6), we took the entire rack out and replaced both sides. Took about 3 evenings during the work week. On my wife's Toyota, I did the left inner in an evening. It just unscrewed from rack with no issues. $30 for the (Toyota) part at AutoZone. I'd guess the Riv's is heavier and a bit more $.

i got my tie rods off ebay for the riv for 15 bucks for the full set. never installed them tho cause dont need them yet. and yeah they are heavy!!!

Wow, great price. Hope you got the good ones. RockAuto sells an economy version for $7 per side. The OEM stardard versions are $50/side!

Wow, hijacked.

New rack and pinion and hoses are now tight. Leaks are from the transmission pan. Bought transfer pump at at the fleet store today. Yikes, RTF isn't cheap. Plan for gasket and filter replacement next Saturday. Local Firestone shop quotes $221 for tranny service.

IFallsRon wrote:

Wow, hijacked.

New rack and pinion and hoses are now tight. Leaks are from the transmission pan. Bought transfer pump at at the fleet store today. Yikes, RTF isn't cheap. Plan for gasket and filter replacement next Saturday. Local Firestone shop quotes $221 for tranny service.

It happens   At least it's still on topic.

I hope you have a big drain pan. You're going to make a mess. Out of curiosity, what did you buy a transfer pump for?

Writeup on this site recommends using a transfer pump to draw out as much ATF as possible through the stick hole. That's my goal. Good news is that ATF and Floor Dry are on sale this week.

if it wasnt get kitty litter lol

joshuadalegrimes wrote:

if it wasnt get kitty litter lol

Kitty Litter = Floor Dry.

Floor Dry is often mad cheap at a tractor supply store if there is one near you.

i usually get 25lb bags of "naturaul" kitty litter for a buck or 2 when i know ill need it at wally world. lol