New Riviera in the stable

I just purchased a '95 Riviera to go with the 63, 64, and 93 (wife's) that I currently have.  I spend most of my time over on the AACA's ROA forum because my expertise is in the 1st generation cars, with some experience in the 79 - 85 years (no turbos though.)

The '95 I bought I've yet to pick up.  I bought it from a lady who's husband drove it before he passed away a couple of years ago.  Therefore, the car hasn't been driven much, if at all, during the past couple of years.  I jump started it yesterday just to listen to it for obvious noises.  The only thing I could find as it sat there was a squealing supercharger belt and the valve cover gaskets leak.  

Now before I move it I'd like some opinions on 1) whether I should just try to drive it to a shop to have it looked at, or should I have it towed.  2) What should I look for other than the obvious things.  I know about rusty engine cradles, and it does has the side-to-side play in the steering column.  (Normally I would take a car out and drive it for before committing to a deal, but for the price I paid for it, I was afraid that it might get away from me.)  3) What engine oil do you recommend - brand and viscosity.  4) Should I service the supercharger?  The original one was replaced about 4 years ago according to the seller.  5) Other things to look for that aren't obvious w/o getting the car up on a rack.  6) Things that aren't obvious even with the car on a rack?  7) Any other advice you can think of.

I know right now that the power lock doesn't work on the passenger's door.  The switches on both doors will lock/unlock the driver's door, but nothing happens on the passenger's side.  Anything similar happen to anyone else?

After I get it looked at, I'll be able to tell you more about how I acquired it and if I got a good deal or not.

Thanks,
Ed Raner
ROA #279
Secretary - ROA Board of Trustees.

Hey Ed, welcome.

Just a few things I would look at, all of which are not really rocket science:

I would look over brake lines when you lift the car up. Check fuel filter too. Look for any rust or corrosion.

As far as oil, I use Mobil Clean 5000 Performance Motor Oil. Pretty much using an oil with the proper manufacturer rating should be okay... I've usually just used a recognizable brand that's not much dinero

How does the SC belt look? Is it riding all the pulleys correctly and is it "shinier" on one side more so than any other?

My valve cover gasket on the front has been leaking for a while and I drive the car regularly. I'll be replacing it soon but that doesn't sound like a reason not to drive the car... I guess it depends on how much it's leaking though. Aka, is there even a gasket on there anymore? haha

Regarding servicing the SC, I've only replaced the oil in it and put a new coupler in there other than putting a modular pulley system on it. Think about replacing the SC oil if you think it'll give you peace of mind.

Other advice: Drive it and love it!

I would just check all of the fluids and drive it to a shop/home to work on it. As long as there's fluids in it and they don't come out faster then you pour them in you're good to go.

That squealing belt could be a bad bearing in an idler or tensioner. Check for rust. A few common spots are inside the rear wheel wells and the front cradle.

The lock/unlock thing may have been a cheap, quick fix done by someone once upon a time.

Ed,
I am fighting the same problem as you in that the Riv I picked up in December has a passenger door issue. There's a plastic and metal mechanism in the door that works the electric door locks and release on the inside of the door that grasps the door latch loop (the door latch loop being the part on the body that the door latch "catches". The suggestion that should work for you is to wedge the window seal open, and spray some PB Blaster in there to knock it loose. You're experiencing a rust problem inside the plastic latch lock/release mechanism. This is a pretty common problem amongst Riv's and Park ave's, and there's a large write-up on it here in the archives. There's even some great fotos of the inside of the door to maybe give you an idea where to shoot the penetrating oil.
The real problem arises when copious amounts of PB Blaster don't knock it loose. I currently have used 4 different brands of oil. nothing has worked. I took the advice of a body guy that has seen the problem several times, and bought a piece of 3/8" clear plastic tubing. I stuck a thick wire coat hanger in the tubing ( straightened out of course) and used the wire to get the tubing "focused" right at the latch mechanism. There's an excellent write-up here on how to remove the inner door panel. Remove the driver's door panel, and get up close and personal with the innards that make your door function. The next thing I'm going to try is the make something out of sheet metal to slip down in the door the poke at that darned thing (the part that you're concerned with is on the bottom, and if you take aprt the driver's door, you'll see exactly what I'm talking about Ed.)

I'm not sure, but it looks like RockAuto sells the little pesky units new. I think it would be nice to buy 2 new units, dunk them in 90 weight gear oil, and be done with the problem!!!!!!!

Hey guys, thanks a bunch for the quick replies. Makes me think I came to the right place the first time out of the shoot.

One other thing that I need to ask but can't find in the owner's manual. Can I put a charger on the battery by using the post under the hood or do I need to remove the seat and access the battery?

Ed

I dont think it would do any harm to do it under the hood, but it might take longer to charge because the connections wont be as good. I would just be safe and connect it straight to the battery. The back seat just pulls right out. Nothing difficult at all.  

Welcome Ed. Congratulations on your newest addition  

Lots of information here, and as said several write-ups about the doors, good luck with your fix.  

How many miles and what is the color combo?

As said, I would check the fluids and drive it, if it doesn’t seem/feel right to you then get it towed/trailered. When I bought the second Silver Arrow I did test drive it but didn’t trust it to make it the 70 miles home so I rented a dolly and drug it home.

Yes, you can charge the battery from the connection under the hood. I do it occasionally, I try to use a lower setting on the charger when I do though.

Congratulations again, and welcome to the RivPerformance Forum

Randall,

That's quite a line up you've got there.  I didn't know you had a boattail; all the others I'm familiar with.  

The color combos on the car are the Platinum Beige both exterior and interior.  However, I do have the flaking clear on the left rear quarter but I'm not too worried about appearance yet; just want to make sure that it's reliable so when I do take it somewhere I know that I'll get there and back.  Strange that all of my '93 doesn't have this problem.  Is the flaking something inherent with the 95's and later models?  Any known quick fix?  

Linda and I are considering using this car for a road car rather than either of our daily drivers; ones a lease and the other's too big. Or maybe this becomes my daily driver.  Plans were to sell the '93 so I could use the proceeds from it to finish the '64.  That all went to heck in hand basket when she brought home that class winner plaque from Lexington.  On the way home one of her questions to me was "Do you think that Randall and Dave will drive all the way from the east coast to Colorado Springs? If not, that means I could go for 1st in class."  Now it looks as if I'll be looking for more storage space.

I'm going to try this first:  Jump start the car and drive it home or as far as I can.  Keep Duane's card with me at all times - he owns K&D Towing.   and hope for the best.   I got it insured today and went by the DMV to get a temporary plate but wouldn't you know it; it's the end of the month and everyone whose tag expires at the end of July was waiting in line to buy their new stickers before tomorrow.  

I'll keep everyone informed as to how it goes.  I may have to put you on my speed dial.

Thanks,
Ed

It appears all your questions have been answered, so I'll just say...
WELCOME ABOARD  

I expect to drive my 92 to Colorado but remember it's exempt from peer judging for the next 3 years.

Ship wrote:

I expect to drive my 92 to Colorado but remember it's exempt from peer judging for the next 3 years.

Wheww!!!

Rivnut wrote:

Randall,

That all went to heck in hand basket when she brought home that class winner plaque from Lexington.  On the way home one of her questions to me was "Do you think that Randall and Dave will drive all the way from the east coast to Colorado Springs?  If not, that means I could go for 1st in class."

I'm not positive "yet", so since I don't know if I am going or not I'm not sure how I will get there? But, if I do drive it would probably be the '93, I wouldn't want to put the 3200 plus miles on the '95 or the Silver Arrow, and I'm sure none of the others will be ready by then.

Sorry Linda  

Rivnut wrote:

Now it looks as if I'll be looking for more storage space.

Thanks,
Ed

I am in the same boat, I need a good bit more space, even "with" a 1000 sq ft garage "with" 12 ft ceilings, and a lift! But keep in mind, you can never have too many Rivieras! And, I don't have near as many as others in the ROA!

For me, round trip from MA to Colorado Springs will be over 4,100 miles. It's a lot to consider mileage wise not to mention $$ wise, but I'll probably do it anyway.

Ship wrote:

For me, round trip from MA to Colorado Springs will be over 4,100 miles.  It's a lot to consider mileage wise not to mention $$ wise, but I'll probably do it anyway.

Dave,

You'll probably beat ol' Marty for the long distance award if you do that;  'bout time someone besides him got that honor.  I'll have to check and see if Randall lives farther though.  Could be close.  

You've made the commitment, now we get to hold you to it.

Ed