fuel pressure spec

Johnny5 wrote:

Find a old one in the junk yard n experiment first so u dont have no long down time in the process

i will have to look may be hard to fine a riv replacement though

deekster_caddy wrote:

If it's hitting 50 with the key off, try changing your fuel filter before you replace the pump.

i tried that like i said it was before only at 35 koeo but today was magically 50 koeo but now bounces bad on idle and drops down to 35 at idle vs 25 before i have no guess as to why it went up between today and yesterday.

Sorry about that. Some grammar and punctuation would make your posts a lot easier to read. If you leave the vacuum line off and plugged with the engine running does the FP stay at 50?

deekster_caddy wrote:

Sorry about that. Some grammar and punctuation would make your posts a lot easier to read. If you leave the vacuum line off and plugged with the engine running does the FP stay at 50?

Sorry for the punctuation errors I normally post from my phone and its a pita. The following is the specs from last time I checked fuel pressure.
 
Key on engine off 50psi
key on engine off with vac applied to regulator 45psi approx. dropping with increase in vac(so regulator is working as it should)
at Idle I am unable to read jumping between 25 and-35 (assuming is jumping when injectors open as fuel pump is not keeping up)
 
 
The first time I checked fuel pressure (day before the above mentioned readings) I was at only 35 psi with key on engine off.....

deekster_caddy wrote:

If you leave the vacuum line off and plugged with the engine running does the FP stay at 50?

mattsaari wrote:

Key on engine off 50psi
key on engine off with vac applied to regulator 45psi approx. dropping with increase in vac(so regulator is working as it should)
at Idle I am unable to read jumping between 25 and-35 (assuming is jumping when injectors open as fuel pump is not keeping up)

So, what is it with the vacuum line off and the engine running?

edit - was it you replacing the EGR tube for a vacuum leak? If so, forget about this issue until you have resolved your vacuum leak.

deekster_caddy wrote:

deekster_caddy wrote:

If you leave the vacuum line off and plugged with the engine running does the FP stay at 50?

mattsaari wrote:

Key on engine off 50psi
key on engine off with vac applied to regulator 45psi approx. dropping with increase in vac(so regulator is working as it should)
at Idle I am unable to read jumping between 25 and-35 (assuming is jumping when injectors open as fuel pump is not keeping up)

So, what is it with the vacuum line off and the engine running?

edit - was it you replacing the EGR tube for a vacuum leak? If so, forget about this issue until you have resolved your vacuum leak.

 
It was the same with or without the vac line off. and I wasn't messing with the egr.
 
Update- I pulled the fuel pump and received a replacement pump. I thought they sent me the wrong pump as it did not fit in the sending unit, but then I looked at the p/n for the fuel pump and found the pump that was in it was for a n/a model   . So now im waiting till Wednesday for the replacement pump to come in the mail hope that fixes it!

How much vacuum do you have on the line? Your fuel pressure should change when you hook up the vacuum line to the regulator. If you put a vacuum pump on the regulator do you change your fuel pressure?

I did not have a way to see how much vaccume was on yhe line. but as i said the fuel pressure did change with vaccume on the regulator with the car not running. but did not change with vaccume at idle. i am assuming it is due to the fuel pump already not keeping up and being at spec so the regulator wouldnt change it anyways. the fuel pump will be here tommorow so i will know then if that is the problem.

It sounds to me like your fuel pump is working, and you are having a problem with the vacuum line or regulator. A handheld vacuum pump/gauge is a lot cheaper than an unnecessary fuel pump.

http://www.sears.com/mityvac-automotive-tune-up-and-brake-bleeding-kit/p-00947058000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

I have a 96 sc as we'll and I had to replace the fuel pump as we'll, as soon as I did check engine code was off, a month later it came on again, and it was my egr tube leaking, so try the fuel pump, that's my opinion.

I had a vac pump as i said at idle it did not change but without the engine running it did.. i also said the fuel pump in it is for a n.a car which means it should be replaced anyways i found that when i went to replace the pump strainers

Replaced the fuel pump my ltft went from 16% down to .7% at idle and i now have 45 psi at odle and around 50 55ish when i rev the engine. i will update when i find out if the check engine light comes back on or not. (keeping fingers crossed)

Nice! Goodluck

im going through the same problem, p0171  ive replaced vacumn lines, fuel filter, egr valve, egr tube, plugs wires, upstream o2, maf, cleaned my throttle body im literally going nuts with this code and i have to go through emissions very soon. i checked my fuel pressure and it was good i think ive narrowed it down to a sticking injector since i have a rough idle at startup, crossing my fingers hoping this fixes it since i ordered cleaned and flowed l67 injectors from zzp

Try getting the O2 emulator from zzp. That was the only way I managed to get the light to shut off for smog. I think the real issue was the cat tho but I was going to delete it anyway.

An O2 Emulator is for the catalyst monitoring O2 only. It has ZERO bearing on a P0171 code....

I don't think my cat has anything to do with the 171 I really hope it a sticking or faulty injector

Update: brand new injectors.... Check engine set again at this point I really have no clue what to do I've spent alot of money on maintenance parts trying to get rid of this code, I wanted to save for a paint job but looks like that isn't happening

Generally P0171 means you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Have you tried lightly spraying carb cleaner around the base of the intake manifold, around all of the connection points after the throttle body and MAF, basically all over the upper engine? At some point the carb cleaner spray will affect the way the engine is running, and you'll find the leak.

See if your egr tube is leaking, mine was and after that my car is 100%

this is what ive changed so far: maf sensor, egr valve, egr tube, plugs and wires, fuel filter, throttle body gasket, injectors, vacumn elbows and lines, upstream 02 sensor, cleaned throttle body and tps and still have this code. I dont want to hijack this thread but i hope this information will help someone out before they throw parts at it like me. The ONLY things that i havent changed are the fuel pump and evap canister underneath the car, i sprayed starting fluid all over the intake bolts and vacumn lines and no rev up. could my fuel pump be bad? it idles very rough sometimes and leads me to believe my pump might be going out.

Aaron do you know if the lower intake gaskets have ever been replaced? It's vacuum leak could be internal. Do you ever have to add coolant, but aren't dripping any?

Yes I replaced my intake gaskets along with my blower

Man that sucks you've replaced the hole car lol, I don't know much, but fuel pump is all I can think of, I have a 1996 and I just replaced mine bc it when out on me. I got mine from ORiley, stock, is what I would go for, for you in my opinion.