Write-Up: How to install an aftermarket SC pulley (Series I)

Through much research looking for a tensioner pulley, I figured out that the Series I has a much different pulley system. The Series II has 2 idler pulleys under the coil pack which is raised a bit. The Series I has no pulleys under the coil pac, so the belt coming from the supercharger feeds directly into the A/C compressor. Here are some pics of the Series I. I included 2 diagrams from the OEM manual for routing. Sorry, the manual dosent have install info.






To change the belts on the 95, I don't have to remove the motor mount like the later models. Just a little more info on the elusive 1995 Riv!

Thanks so much for this info! This is the kind of stuff we need to know about the Series I SC.

Well I just found out there is no MPS pulley available for the series I I know I need a puller to take the old one off...how to I press the new one on?

I would guess a rubber mallet, or some sort of wood block & hammer. I'm about to try this myself. I'm not to worries, if I bend the shaft, I can get a rebuilt M62 charger on ebay for around $195. I'll write it up when I do the install.

Uh, I'm pretty sure you can't hammer it in. It must be pressed on. There should be a tool available through the SC pulley vendor.

No the series one you only have to use a regular 3 jaw pulley puller available at most locations.

1. Remove the two nuts (10mm) that hold the Coolant tank and move the tank out of the way a little. (this step may only be necessary depending on the size of your puller)

2. Grip the old pulley with a large pair of channel locks on the belt. Be careful not to damage the pulley. (use an OLD belt)

3. Loosen the center nut (14mm) and remove. Shouldn't take much torque. The nut is a locknut so it will not turn freely until the nut is half off the stud.

4. Loosen the idler by using a socket on the idler pulley bolt and rotating the idler counter clockwise to release the tension on the belt. Make sure you look at how the belt is threaded on the air Conditioning and other pulleys in case it comes off.

5. Use a 6" three jaw puller to remove the pulley from the SC shaft. Before removing the pulley, Rotate it back and forth to check for play in the coupler. if you feel some looseness you may want to change the coupler also. that will be covered in another segment. One nice thing about the Series 1 ... it doesn't require a special puller because it is not a heavy press fit.

6. Use a thin coating of grease or never seize to coat the shaft. Place the pulley on the shaft making sure you line uf the key and keyway. also make sure you put the pulley on in the same orientation that the old one came off. I can be put on either way but one way will misalign the belts.

7. You will need to lightly... and I mean lightly tap the pulley with a RUBBER HAMMER the start the pulley on the shaft.

8. Once you have a couple of threads showing replace the nut and tighten eith the socket to seat the pulle on the shaft.

9. Replace the belt, making sure thar the belt is on all of the pulleys correctly.

10. Use the Channel locks to hold the pulley and tighten the nut to I believe 37 ft/lbs.

11. Replace the coolant andt and tighten the two nuts.... finish beer and enjoy.

(stolen from bonnevilleclub)

yikes..please do not..beat it on..........thats as bad as beating a harmonic balancer on an engine.....ooof!!!!!

AFAIK the series 1 uses a woodruff key, not a press fit. You should be able to take the retaining nut off and using opposing taps with a soft mallet work the pulley off with no damage. Pulley boys sells different sizes for the series 1.

Good luck!
-Derek

I have a series 1, and I used a block of wood and a hammer.

I see there is a thread on the series 2 engine but nuttin for the series 1....

I was going to try getting my new pulley on the other day with no luck on figuring it out....

also!

it said the series one could be removed with no pulley puller, so if someone could explain that.

and do we have to remove that key in the center?

I took off the 18mm bolt(Or w/e size it was) and then it looked like there was another nut? or else that was part of the OE pulley. I could see the key in the center,

I just need directions, I guess if I gotta go rent a puller I will, but I dont wanna!

just take the nut off the end. Use an old belt on the pulley with some vicegrips so it doesn't move. Then use a puller to take the pully off. I tried to do it with no puller, but the amount of force required to get the sucker off is alot. I'm not sure why people are talking about renting these pullers, mine cost 10$ to buy. The pulley is keyed, the key should stay on the shaft. And there is no key in the center, thats a centering hole for the pulley puller. If you want to wait, I think i still have the pics left from when i did mine and could put up a writeup when I get home...

1.Remove bolt
2.Get some wood and a hammer
3.Tap it off.

That's what I did.

You don't need the specialized puller that the Series II requires. Our pulley is pressed onto the shaft, with something like 3000 lbs of pressure. I've read a standard pulley puller from a parts store can be used on Series I if you need to use one to get it off.

yup, thats what i used. Standard puller. If its never been taken off for the lif eof the car, you probally wont have much luck with a hammer and block of wood though. The first time its on TIGHT!

Mine was never messed with, I just got pissed off and it came off.

Well When I was pounding at it, it started to move, but I got scared and tapped it back.

so I wanna resort to the pulley puller way.

what kind of pulley puller should I ask for when I go,

anyone got part #'s or pics or sumn? I wanna make sure I get what I need

its just a 3 or 4 jaw pulley puller. That can handle a pulley at 2.8" I got a 3" puller. I was going to take a pic and put it up, but it looks like I left my puller at the shop.

Edit: I found it!:

Will I need a different size idler/Tensioner pulley with the use of a 2.5" Pulley?

I know on the pulleyboys website they mention a different size one for sale

This is the proper tool for power steering pump pulley removal and installation.
I've seen these for as little as $15.00 (Chinese)
and this MATCO one for $70.00
http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/MST4530.jpg

I have both, cheapo from Harbor Freight and Matco. Is used for pulleys other than power steering on some GM's and other makes.

vendetta wrote:

Will I need a different size idler/Tensioner pulley with the use of a 2.5" Pulley?

I know on the pulleyboys website they mention a different size one for sale

If the belt is new, and your tensioner is in good shape you can get away with not changing the idler/tensioner size when dropping to 2.5

^ mmk well ill hope for the best....

if it doesnt work out then ill prolly put the stock pulley back on, kuz I dont have money to throw at this car when im trying to buy some winter mods for the bird

uh..does anyone have a beltrouting diagram for a 95 s/c 3.8 riv? i cant find it in the stupid and tottaly usless piece of ass paper that is the mother f.....g crap ass piece of s...t garbage barf bag of a manual! aghhhh!!! please

Figure 13 - Accessory Drive Belt Service
.................(Engine Code 1).......................
Page 6A8-13

HTH

Randall

Sorry about the delay.

thankya kindly good sir!

Hey guys,
I think I might do this job with the 2.5'' Eaton style pulley from pulley boys for my M62 SC Series I. Was anyone getting a chirping sound from their SC pulley before doing this job? Did the problem go away when replaced? That's the only reason I'm doing this. I replaced belts and pretty sure I narrowed it down to this pulley.
- Drew