Matt's Tune Thread

Here's the scan from the trip home. I'll run back out and get the bin once my laptop gets a good charge in it.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jvemaoddtgrgyax/10-23-14-2.csv?dl=0

Aaaaaand the bin. Forgot I had it in DropBox already.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2m8rqlyqzvroxls/AAAxnaxZb43366uhOm39TuY_a?dl=0

Yeah, O2s are around 900, but without a wideband it's kinda meaningless. Also, for some reason you got a whole bunch of "--" for some of the columns.

It would be helpful if you go into the scan before you post the log and filter out, say, anything with tp% less than 10 so we don't have to scroll through a whole bunch of idling etc. When you don't do that, I open in Excel, filter by TP% column and search for anything above 60. That brings me to the right lines, and I can cancel the filter and scroll around from there once I know what row numbers I'm looking for.

Need to review the bin and see why it's calling for so rich. Not sure when I'll have a chance.

I had a similar problem with my '98, always going pig-rich on WOT. I can't remember if I ever solved it, I sold it to my brother and he never tracked the car much after that, so we never worked out the rest of the bugs.

Think I found it. The '96 is a little bit of a different breed than the rest. The VE table is set to a flat .8 bone stock....ha. The AE enrichment table was jacked (my fault). It was wayyyyy rich. I fixed it. Also, the '96 doesn't have a base PE A/F ratio to adjust. I was thinking of a '97-above apparently.


https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=EEBECD9F11F19D50!127&authkey=!AOwFdsJ0Vcft30k&ithint=file%2cbin

EDIT: FYI, I fixed the AE table, and added a ramped ~4% to the top 10% of the MAF table. Let's see if that fixes it. I was only 2% above stock as it was. The middle of the MAF table was bone stock....and still is.

Thanks

Oh right, forgot it's a '96. Good find A

Did you load the "fix"? How's she running?

I loaded it, been running it for a few days to get the fuel trims back to normal after resetting them. Going to get a good scan tomorrow hopefully.

cannot wait to see KR/timing @ WOT on this next scan.

Nobody changed the timing Charlie. It's bone stock.

I know you're an advocate of increasing timing, but you'd be scared to ever drive your car again if you scanned it bone stock.....

Base timing advance on a '96 is only about 12-13* at WOT ~5500rpms.

Last scan of Matts we saw KR at WOT

With this issue existing, he will never be able to up his timing and make more HP.

Shouldnt have sold that 3.5", bro!

You should be running 0 KR with stock timing and then start bumping your timing until you see KR or see if you can get to around 19-20* @ WOT with 0 KR. Only when you are getting 20* timing @ WOT should you consider dropping pulley size, IMO.

But im just a noob still learning so dont mind me.


I never made it to the track this summer but I wanted to test my 3.4" tune vs my 3.25" tune in the quarter mile.

Everything I've read says timing > pulley torque in the quarter mile, though.

Back to what I said.....

You can't get 20* timing out of a near-stock 3800. Period. You are going to see KR on it. So unless you de-tune a stock engine, it isn't going to happen. Even if he were to drop back to a stock pulley with the mods he has, you aren't getting 20* of timing. A bone stock 3800 WILL get ~5* (+/- 2*) KR in higher gears. That's my point.
We all understand what you're getting at, but just please quit with the timing advance. Until Matt gets a Cam, some Rockers or an Intercooler, we aren't touching the timing.

I have a tune from Overkill (getoverkilled.ca) that I acquired. It's for a BONE stock '97 Riv. The timing tables aren't anywhere near where you think they should be. Some of the timing curve is actually RETARDED, not advanced. They have a max 16* advance at WOT ~5000rpms. Just sayin.

Here's today's scan:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2yxlzrwknc4b0r7/10-28-14.csv?dl=0

It looks like the knock is pretty much gone, minus the knock on lines 797-810 which I think was just a fluke. What happened was I shifted into first manually and gunned it, but I repeated that a few times and didn't see it again so I figured it was just a one time thing. Any other knock is still when the A/F drops below 13.7.

I'll have a look at it later. I've got quite a few big jobs to get done today.

I haven't forgotten about you man. It was a busy weekend....

No worries, I've been busy too.

Just posting here to keep a log as to what's been changed.

-Deleted P0140 CEL codes
-Messed with shift points - did not raise WOT shift points above what they were, only for 80%-99% TP

Matt, are you still running any of the tune we flashed when you visited? If so, your part throttle shift values should have been raised, I think.

It's similar to it, pretty sure they're the same shift points that we set. Just changed it so that 80% and up shifted near/at WOT points

96v7 - MAF tables are pretty well down, just have to mess with WOT a bit. Bumped up the in gear idle a bit because it was having trouble idling without giving a bit of gas to keep it at ~1k RPM.

If it's having trouble idling at factory spec, there's something wrong.....
Without a cam, it should idle perfectly at ~750rpms. Is it running too rich at idle?

matt270avian wrote:

Bumped up the in gear idle a bit because it was having trouble idling without giving a bit of gas to keep it at ~1k RPM.

what does it idle at once it reaches operating temperature? You have to give it gas when you first start the car cold?

Does it choke or anything?

Haven't looked at the fuel trims for idle, but it's only when it's at cold start. It didn't do it when it was warm out (~60*), it only started when it dropped down to ~30*. When it's all warmed up it idles alright.

Well it still doesn't like to idle even after I bumped up the idle RPM. I'll upload the bin and scans when I get home for you all to review. I think abaddon is right about the idle fueling being weird.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mbldmi92dyzzwcn/AADhpt6f2FCOTSeNSwT1EjH6a?dl=0

Current tune and today's scans. Car will not idle without giving it some gas when cold. When fully warmed up it will idle, but a little roughly.

So wait now it doesn't want to idle? What's been changed that it's not idling? It was idling ok since you installed the northstar setup? Those LTFT's on your latest scan there are quite rich. The PCM is commanding a pretty pig rich AFR during a cold start in the first place so if it's got a very rich tendency and those compound, it'll be drowning in gas until warmed up. It just doesn't want to idle even after warmup though? I thought I saw you installed the new O2 and the signal does look spunkier than before so what all went wrong that it doesn't idle? You wouldn't wanna just add some big multiplier to the maf table without having evidence to say it needs it. Need stock maf table and reset FT's and read what the fresh o2 says.
Btw my fuel trims are almost as rich as yours are there right now. I'm suspecting my gas station snuck in a winter blend of e85 that has more gas but the car starts, idles, and drives like before without any of my intervention so I just have a suspicion you still have something going on besides an AFR issue.