- jeffyd123 wrote:
- Hey Guys...
My AC started slowly getting warmer last fall.
It took about 3 weeks but it now wont cool at all.
Compressor runs and the low-side goes down to the normal amount of pressure (~about 35PSI). when the comnpressor is off the static pressure is about 90PSI.
The compressor stays on and does not cycle. the low-side plumbing does not get cool.
I put a small amount of freon in it but it did nothing.
I have not checked the pressure on the high-side of the system.
The blend door seems to be operating just fine and it cycles to the different zones properly.
Im thinking that the accumulator is clogged or some other component like the dryer is clogged.
Any suggestions?
Thanks as always
Jeff
It could simply need recharge. I have heard but can not verify that the new refrigerant tends to leak through hoses once the hoses are past a certain age. I know that the new refrigerant *does* leak though the R12 hoses, the R12 hoses do not have the barrier layer that the new style hoses do.
I also know that in such a case it is best to use plain cans of R134 - NOT the stop-leak. There was some reason for that but I forget what. By the way you will need one of the topping-up kits that has a gauge, because if you've lost enough refrigerant for the system to stop it will take more than one can of the stuff to top it up enough to work.
A professional recharge - don't go with the cheapest one - will check for and advise you on any leaks. However, in my experience, they typically can't detect the leaking thru the rubber hoses. They will get the charge, the lubrication, and the balance right. If there are no mechanical problems, just hoses that supposedly have become porous, your AC will work for years before quitting again.
The only way the accumulator and or dryer might clog would be if the orifice valve fragged or you have mechanical failure in the compressor. Happens. But again, in a professional but not-the-cheapest recharge once the system is evacuated they replace that orifice valve anyway, it's cheap and replacing it as maintenance with a complete evac/recharge forestalls the breakage problem. You can ask them for a variable orifice valve, if they will install once for you it will cost you extra but the system will work better. From RockAuto a variable will cost you about $20 - $25 more than a fixed valve. I Don't know what the pros will charge.
All that said, you can try topping the system off and again, if there are no mechanical issues a couple cans of R134 will get it going again. Some people do annual topoffs. R134 conversions require annual or biannual recharges because the hoses are porous to R134.
G'Luck.
