Noone has turboed these cars?

Did a forum search and came up with only that one race car that is RWD. Has no one done a turbo build on a l67 in these cars? If there has been one please link me as I didn't see it when the search results were looked at.

I'm sure you can find turbo'd Regals and Gran Prixs, but I haven't seen a turbo Riviera yet. If you want to make substantially more power than the stock supercharger can make, you'll have to upgrade to a racing transmission, which is $5000 IIRC. The stock transmission can barely handle what an unmodded L67 makes. There may be other problems after that. I think the Riviera's engine has one less engine mount, and the ones it has are softer. The aftermarket for the suspension is not as good, so you're stuck with the stock shocks and struts. All in all if you want to build a race car, the Riviera is not a great choice. It can be improved on, but if you're hardcore about racing, there are many better options.

I not looking for a race car, more of a weekend butt hurt car. I mean who expects a 500 dollar riv to have any nuts under the hood. I will prolly pick a TEP stg 2 4t65ehd and drop it in. The G body trans can be stuck in a w body so if I get tired of it in the riv I can just change the mounts and drop it in one of my regals. I am simply wanting variety in my life. A turbo riv and a gen v DD and a gen 3 show car. Life is good. Another T4 turbo fell into my lap yesterday for 50 bucks, you can hardly find dead turbos for that let alone a working turbo.

A turbo isn't going to get you around a corner any faster than a S/C or non S/C'd Riv.A coilovered 245 hp  Riv will spank a 325 hp Riv any day on a road course.A 3700 pound Riv is a handful

robotennis61 wrote:

A turbo isn't going to get you around a corner any faster than a S/C or non S/C'd Riv.A coilovered 245 hp  Riv will spank a 325 hp Riv any day on a road course.A 3700 pound Riv is a handful

We can haz coilovers?

yup

robotennis61 wrote:

A turbo isn't going to get you around a corner any faster than a S/C or non S/C'd Riv.A coilovered 245 hp  Riv will spank a 325 hp Riv any day on a road course.A 3700 pound Riv is a handful

We are all about bracket racing up here and the closest track is 2 hours away. SO a nice comfy car and a 12 sec time slip at the mile high track is the end goal. The turbo is the cheapest way to get there... Trust me I have done the cam route the rocker route IC route and NO2 route and yes they can get you there but its easier. and I will have no more than 2k wrapped up in the whole kit heads cam and rockers included. SOOOOOOO F it I want to hurt some feelings. Ive already been told to sell it more than a dozen times and get a newer car but IDC I will see what I can do. Plus with the bigger car the easier the it is to run the DP and the easier the DP routing the easier it is to Fab your own setup.

These cars are stupid easy to turbo. If you're starting from an L36, I would 99% of the time turbo over supercharged. Block off the downpipe and weld a tee with a flange into the pipe that joins the rear and front manifolds, bolt that MFer in there and plumb in oil and water, then make yourself a downpipe. Helped a buddy turbo a Bonneville and the result with a daily-drivable conservative tune performed similar to a Bonneville GXP with the Northstar OilPisser and made far better noises while doing it. The plan is to drop a few hundred bucks on a pair of stock Ford Fiesta ST turbochargers (ball bearing, can be had cheap because everybody upgrades and dumps their stockers) and twin-turbo my '97 Riviera once I finish my '91 turbo Miata track bitch.

robotennis61 wrote:

yup

WhereWhenHowWhat?

Coilovers:

1. Cut off your lower spring perch, being careful not to heat up the shock tube too much
2. Buy some adjustible spring sleeves off of ebay and slide them down the shock tube so they rest on the bracket for the steering knuckle
3. Go to summit racing and buy yoself some some springs. Stock is 160# I believe. I would get 300# springs if you are planning on lowering, to avoid hitting the bumpstops too much
4. Toss the springs on there and bolt the strut mount back on
5. Put in car

For the rears, I dunno. Use some autozone spring clamps or something to lower it and adjust the height back up with the air shocks. Most people find some unobtanium lowering springs for the rear but I have no idea what other solution there is for that.

100percentjake wrote:

Coilovers:

1. Cut off your lower spring perch, being careful not to heat up the shock tube too much
2. Buy some adjustible spring sleeves off of ebay and slide them down the shock tube so they rest on the bracket for the steering knuckle
3. Go to summit racing and buy yoself some some springs. Stock is 160# I believe. I would get 300# springs if you are planning on lowering, to avoid hitting the bumpstops too much
4. Toss the springs on there and bolt the strut mount back on
5. Put in car

For the rears, I dunno. Use some autozone spring clamps or something to lower it and adjust the height back up with the air shocks. Most people find some unobtanium lowering springs for the rear but I have no idea what other solution there is for that.

yup.easy peazy japanezy

It's not that bad if you aren't scared of some minor fab. Other than taking off the lower strut mount (a fairly large pain in the ass, but manageable with patience) it's basically "buy parts and stuff them on the shock".

Turbo kit has arrived, and a second turbo fell into my lap for 50 bucks. so now that the regal is running and I am just finishing up the little things on it, next project will be the 4t60 fix and then toss on the turbo get it plumbed and run low boost for the time being. As well as tossing the stg 1 cam in and 1.6 rockers while I have it apart. then I will look into the DIY coil overs while its all blasted apart. Sad thing is this will prolly be faster than my GTO till I get the heads and cam in the gto.

We should all go turbo and call it a day

charlieRobinson wrote:

We should all go turbo and call it a day

Prolly not---these engines are more or less set up for producing copious power at relatively low RPMs. Kinda makes me curious - how do you get power out of the turbo(s) at 1500 RPM?

Here are some fun articles about this neverending discussion:

https://www.carthrottle.com/post/engineering-explained-the-pros-and-cons-of-turbochargers-vs-superchargers/

http://www.redline360.com/garage/supercharger-vs-turbo-which-is-better-and-whats-the-difference (you know Redline likes turbos)

For the application intended by Buick, I think the SC wins. Less maintenance and better oomph at relatively low RPMs. Like the +/- 1500 RPM these things cruise at 65 MPH. For the rest of us I think it's what fits and what do we want to maintain and do we really want to do the camming and programming to make the 3800 a higher-revving engine. Finally for the turbo start with the L67 it's a stronger engine.