New Riv Owner, Pass Turn Signal Lights Up On Braking

Has anyone else had this problem and identified what it is? I searched but didn't find a thread that denoted this particular problem.

As soon as the brake lights are activated the right turn signal goes solid. It has tell tale signs of being corrosion related as when it first starts up on some days it does it, other times it doesn't do it until the car is fully warmed up, and when I first turn it on and the left blinker is on it won't do it (if it's doing it when it's first turned on).

It lights up the front and the dash light, and I assume the rear. There is no flashing. When turning right when I first turn on the car the flashing will work, but after fully warmed up it will always light up solid and override the flashing function.

It started doing it right after I tried to use a resistor to bypass the security system with the key (I was thinking that was stopping the car from turning on based on iNet searches, it turns out my gas gauge was off by 25% and I had just ran out of fuel).

All of the wiring looked clean under the steering column so it's a conundrum. A failing flasher wouldn't cause that would it?

A failing Turn Signal Switch (Muliti-function Switch) will cause your problem. All of the Brake lights and Turn signals run through that switch.

First thing I would do is check all your bulbs on that side. The directional signal dash light is designed to stay on when there is a blown bulb. Some of them are dual filament. Check them, front and rear.

Is it a separate switch inside the steering column or do I have to replace the whole arm? There was once a morning where the wipers wouldn't turn off, so now that you mention it it might need replaced/fixed somehow.

CoffeeCommando wrote:

Is it a separate switch inside the steering column or do I have to replace the whole arm?  There was once a morning where the wipers wouldn't turn off, so now that you mention it it might need replaced/fixed somehow.

You have to remove the column clamshell (careful, there are hidden screws at the very bottom and inside the tilt mechanism lever cavity) then remove the switch.  In practice you replace these with a new unit or a good junkyard pull.

Supposedly among other problems, the lube in the switch becomes conductive over time and boogers up. Meaning that some things blink when they shouldn't and others won't when they should.

I had heard they are rebuildable/repairable, I removed mine -- it works except the tip-to-pass feature didn't really work.  But I have not disassembled the switch part yet to diagnose/fix it.  

BTW for your immediate problem the first thing I would do is pull the taillight assembly and check the wiring/sockets. The sockets twist into the assembly and they are generic GM. The back of the taillights is exposed to the weather in the form of aerosols that form when you drive in the rain. I would pull that stupid thing just to clean and repaint the panel it's on, and I further suspect you will find that your issues are created in part by corrosion in the sockets. *Do NOt* be surprised if there are problems in both the switch and sockets.

Albertj