Front lower control arm bushings

...does anyone know if the 2-piece lower control arm bushings for the '96 fit the '98-99 control arms? To wit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8113960&cc=1022038&jsn=698

Albert,
The OEM Parts List says the 95-96 are the same P/N and the 97-99 are the same but different P/N's.
The Dorman control arms I got from Amazon a while Back were about $50.00 each at the time and included the bushings and the ball joints.

I installed them when the "new" front cradle was installed. Drove nice and tight for the short amount of time I actually got to drive it before the rear rotted out from under me. The bushings that are in the Dorman arms are/were Poly bushings.

I hope this tid bit of info is helpful.

Also I believe this is the same P/N list I have. https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t7618-the-holy-grail#118520

This copy has the pages are numbered slightly different than the one I have but look between what is marked Pg 999 on the top left of the page and #1,000

You will find the bushings listed under the control arm pic. Item's #14. All 4 bushings have the same P/N. Because I was able to get the control arms loaded and new for only $50.00 + , I chose to go that route at the time. Just the labor to remove and replace the bushings only would have been the same or more money.

Thank you Rick.  I might just get the Dorman arms, funny RockAuto does not list them under the '98 Riv but I found them on the Autohousaz site and put that number into RockAuto and Bang there they were.  Kinda wonder why that is -- but hey I found 'em.

Seeing that the front lower CA bushing is nylon I kinda doubt it's dead.  That rear one is a suspect.  I am due for a new set of summer tires this year (before spring) and figure I ought to rebuild or replace the LCAs while I am at it.

BTW any idea why the 97-99 are the same but show different #s? Different bushings?!?!?

albertj wrote:

Thank you Rick.  I might just get the Dorman arms, funny RockAuto does not list them under the '98 Riv but I found them on the Autohousaz site and put that number into RockAuto and Bang there they were.  Kinda wonder why that is -- but hey I found 'em.

Seeing that the front lower CA bushing is nylon I kinda doubt it's dead.  That rear one is a suspect.  I am due for a new set of summer tires this year (before spring) and figure I ought to rebuild or replace the LCAs while I am at it.

BTW any idea why the 97-99 are the same but show different #s?  Different bushings?!?!?

No, I have no idea why they have different bushing numbers but the same control arm assembly numbers.

What and who is "Autohousaz". Never heard of this site.????

autohausaz is a car parts sales organization in Arizona.  They lean toward European car parts, but I get stuff for my Riv there sometimes.  They have a narrower selection of parts.  Their 'schtick' is to only list parts they think are OE quality or better.  They usually succeed.  I got my first set of ATE brake rotors there.  They were great, bought a second set.  The first set I got lasted almost 8 years.

I am thinking there might be different durometer bushings in the 97 versus 98-9 control arms, I'd like the stiffer ones which ever those might be -- I suspect 97.

My LCA bushings are shot too, my mechanic put it on lift after my car was shaking on the highway.
too. Albert, how did the dorman part work for you? I also saw it listed in Moog. My motor mounts are done and I am also going to replace the trans mount. Is there anything else I should replace while the lca's are off?

carguy8888 wrote:

My LCA bushings are shot too, my mechanic put it on lift after my car was shaking on the highway.
too. Albert, how did the dorman part work for you? I also saw it listed in Moog. My motor mounts are done and I am also going to replace the trans mount. Is there anything else I should replace while the lca's are off?

I did not do i yet. I have to learn to do my own alignments first, at the suggestion of someone at the local GM dealer. The cash I save will pay for the arms ha ha.

I watched a few YouTube videos about doing self-alignment, I think it involved ropes. There was a lot of opinion in the comments about why it wouldn't work.

The really old timers used to do that, to me I would rather pay and if it's not right bring it back.
I'm hoping new lower control arm bushings and the tranny Mount will take care of the vibration or shutter I have when the car is moving very slow and I'm turning the wheel.

Albert, I put in a four-note GM horn and it's awesome.

I'd rather do it myself if it worked, I'm just doubtful of how well it works, if at all.

If done right it does work.

carguy8888 wrote:

The really old timers used to do that, to me I would rather pay and if it's not right bring it back.
I'm hoping new lower control arm bushings and the tranny Mount will take care of the vibration or shutter I have when the car is moving very slow and I'm turning the wheel.

Albert, I put in a four-note GM horn and it's awesome.

Glad you like it.  What did you use?

Something like a b c & f in front of the radiator, I kept my factory horns as well.
Do you think my worn lca's would make a rubbing or binding noise when turning if the car is stopped or going very slowly?

Jack the R wrote:

I'd rather do it myself if it worked, I'm just doubtful of how well it works, if at all.

The dirty little secret is that if the rest of the suspension is in parameters, all you have to adjust is toe (front and rear) and all you need for that is a string.

The problem I am having is that most of the techs around here doing the alignment try to set the steering wheel so it is parallel to the plane of the dash, which is tilted to the left a bit. So a paid alignment, from most techs where I live, is * always wrong * and the dealer tech who knows how to do it right is retiring (he prepped my car for delivery 20 years ago, and has been working on it off and on for decades under the employ of two different dealerships in the area).

So... I was quietly and helpfully told I need to figure this out.

Suggestions, admonishments and directions welcome.

Albertj

Above my pay grade lol.

Someone on here told me recently that nothing needs to be adjusted. Can't remember what thread it was. I've also been told that the rear doesn't need adjusting.

Jack the R wrote:

Someone on here told me recently that nothing needs to be adjusted.  Can't remember what thread it was.  I've also been told that the rear doesn't need adjusting.  

You have to adjust toe (front & back), and there are shims for caster and camber on the front. HOWEVER, if the components are not worn there's usually no adjustments needed I am told.