Cam sensor

Going to replace my cam sensor and crank sensor can cam sensor be done without removing engine mount thx

71stagegs wrote:

Going to replace my cam sensor and crank sensor can cam sensor be done without removing engine mount thx

yes, check a service manual, I've done it, be careful not to drop the fastener.

71stagegs wrote:

Going to replace my cam sensor and crank sensor can cam sensor be done without removing engine mount thx

My memory isn't fresh on this, but I believe you have to do a bit of recalibrating after changing the crankshaft sensor. This requires a Tech 2 scanner or HP Tuners/DHP Powertuner.

Jack the R wrote:

71stagegs wrote:

Going to replace my cam sensor and crank sensor can cam sensor be done without removing engine mount thx

My memory isn't fresh on this, but I believe you have to do a bit of recalibrating after changing the crankshaft sensor.  This requires a Tech 2 scanner or HP Tuners/DHP Powertuner.  

The re-calibration is "CKP LEARN" procedure; you warm the car up, turn it off, connect the tech II and enable CKP LEARN, start car, make sure car is in Park then rev the engine to 5150 RPM and immediately take your foot off the gas. The tool will tell you if the learn ran.

For the cam sensor, just disconnect the negative battery cable before you remove/replace the sensor. Cam sensor just bolts onto the engine under the water pump pulley. I replaced mine once for general maintenance and do not plan to replace it again.

Albertj

.Wow thats crazy blow the motor

71stagegs wrote:

.Wow thats crazy blow the motor

5150 RPM isn't going to blow anyone's engine up.

I ran mine up to the RPM limiter and pulled off the throttle to set my CPK.

BTW, I borrowed a Snap-On dig tool from a friend at the time to finish the job.

Ran good, last looong time.

I was planning on doing the crankshaft position sensor this coming weekend. Is the Tech II necessary or not?

Jack the R wrote:

I was planning on doing the crankshaft position sensor this coming weekend.  Is the Tech II necessary or not?

Yes, *but* I think there is an alternate procedure in the Powertrain section of the FSM. Did you check?

Albertj

I just finished mine it started up first shot going to my buddys tomorrow to hook up scan 2 c what it says I'll let u know

Albertj I looked can’t find it the guy who organized the manual is the same guy who designed the steering column lol

71stagegs wrote:

I  just finished mine it started up first shot going to my buddys tomorrow to hook up scan 2 c what it says I'll let u know

Definitely do, I need to know.

71stagegs wrote:

Albertj I looked can’t find it the guy who organized the manual is the same guy who designed the steering column lol

Which edition of the '98 factory manual do you have?

3 books GMP/98-G=1

See page 6-911.  Use your scan tool to see that only P1336 is set - find and fix any other codes.  Leave P1336 set, though.  trouble code P0300 (misfire) may set due to the crank learn not being done.  See page 6-640.  Basically if you're getting a random misfire for no reason then P1336 should also set and you will have to clear that P0300 code and run  a crank learn.

So... if your scan tool is able to enable the crank position sensor learn function (some besides the Tech II do this) then OK.  

As for 'find the procedure in the manual' it's in my manual alright - from a printout my buddy gave me a copy of that I can't track down a source for.

1. Turn off all of the accessories. With the Air temperature sensor and Coolant temperature within 5 degrees Celsius of each other, start the engine and let it idle in Park or Neutral for two minutes.
2. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 mph at part throttle. Cruise at 55 mph for 8- 10 minutes until the engine reaches operating temperature.
3. Cruise at 55 mph for another 5-6 minutes.
4. Decelerate to 45 mph without using the brakes, and maintain 45 mph for 1 minute.
5. Perform 4 deceleration cycles, without using the brakes, of 25 seconds each where no specific speed is necessary. Returning to 45 mph for 15 seconds in between deceleration cycles.
6. Accelerate to 55 mph and cruise for 2 minutes.
7. Stop the vehicle and idle for 2 minutes with the brake applied and the transmission in Drive.

I am told this works on 1998 and later GM OBDII vehicles. When you do this drill, check for codes again and if you don't get any  code for misfire then it was done correctly. IF you do then you have to repeat the drill. Maybe someone else can comment as well.

Another way to look at it:

i) From a cold start, let ending idle for two minutes then cruise at 55 MPH for 15 minutes. Starting from a truck stop on a highway somewhere, off-hours, after a nice meal or dessert might work for you.

ii) just after the 15 minute mark, turn off the cruise control, don't brake, just let the car decelerate to an indicated 45 MPH. Set cruise at that speed and maintain for a minute or so. NOTE: Minimum speed on interstate is 40 MPH and some state laws may require 4-way flashers at that 45 speed, so you should check.

iii) Just after the one-minute mark, turn off cruise and coast for 25 seconds, then accelerate back to 45 and hold. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. (4x total)

iv) Now accelerate to 55 mph, set cruise, let car cruise for two minutes.

v) Now pull over and stop for 2 minutes, transmission in Drive, holding the service brake.

Yet another way to look at it:

i) Put the factory service manual in the passenger seat

ii) From a cold start, let ending idle for two minutes then cruise at 55 MPH for 15 minutes. Starting from a truck stop on a highway somewhere, off-hours, after a nice meal or dessert might work for you.

iii) just after the 15 minute mark, turn off the cruise control, don't brake, just let the car decelerate to an indicated 45 MPH. Set cruise at that speed and maintain for a minute or so. NOTE: Minimum speed on interstate is 40 MPH and some state laws may require 4-way flashers at that 45 speed, so you should check.

iv) Explain to the highway patroller who stopped you on suspicion of driving while impaired that you're trying to manually calibrate the crank angle sensor, and you'd be much obliged if a buddy of theirs with a 2-way scan tool would do it for you instead of this cockamamie routine.

v) Go to the buddy's garage, connect scan tool to OBD II port, enter CKP calibration routine, blip throttle per instructions, check if code is cleared. If code is not cleared, check p. 6-911 in factory manual for procedure, and repeat.

One way or another, you'll get this done. The vehicle is drive-able without the relearn though you will get the SES indicator lit.

Albertj

Can't imagine how to perform all these steps in real (city) life. You definitely need a stretch of empty highway.
Recently I joined the P0336 club, gonna put a new CKP sensor soon. And I don't have a scanner

Thanks Albertj I took car for inspection and Tech 2 lean today and the inspection machine was down try again tomorrow, Riv runs great with out doing a thing, Last 2 times out going up a hill under load it shut off tried it today twice no problems

71stagegs wrote:

Thanks Albertj  I took car for inspection and Tech 2 lean today and the inspection machine was down try again tomorrow, Riv runs great with out doing a thing, Last 2 times out going up a hill under load it shut off tried it today twice no problems  

I wonder if the mech didn't just quietly do the case learn, which would have required resetting all the codes and your car would fail any inspection involving emissions. The mech can just tell you, machine's down come back, no harm no foul. Drive it 25 miles or so, go back, it'll pass, mech will get paid. Easy.

All done  he hooked up tech 2 and there is a case learn like u said Albertj rev it to 5150  comes back it’s doing learn Done ! car runs so good  Thanks for your help!