FAQ: Anti-Lock Brakes and/or Traction Control Light/Lamp On

WSS?

Women's Studies Section

no the abs light was on before i did my struts, and i didnt forget to plug in the connectors. What does WSS stand for?

WSS = Wheel Speed Sensor

Rickw wrote:

WSS = Wheel Speed Sensor

Thank You Rick

I've read several posts re: this same subject but thought with my situation I might be more specific.

I have owned a 1997 Riviera since brand new - 3.8 Supercharged. I have 265660 miles and the vehicle has been in 48 of 50 states. I love the car.

I just had a few minor maintenance items taken care of because I plan to drive it another 8000 miles on a vacation. Here is the problem: One of the items I wanted fixed is the "Trac Off " light which came on when I was driving on a freeway. I assumed I had hit the traction control switch but when I pressed it nothing changed. But the switch didn't seem to engage like it normally does (no click). Prior to having it serviced the ABS light came on one time while idling in park but when I shut the car down and restarted it that light went off and no longer appeared.

Suspecting one of the hub sensors was bad, the tech at the repair shop I always use tested and said he was getting a signal from all of them and felt they were all working. However, he didn't check the switch on the dash since I hadn't mentioned how it acted.

My question is this - if the switch is broken would that cause the warning light? If so, would replacing it require removing the dash? (I removed the panel above the gas and brake panel but was unable to get to the rear of the switch. If the dash needs to be removed, is it divided into a bottom left side which can be removed separately? It looked that way.

All comments are appreciated. Thanks, Bob

when you start the car the traction is automatically turned on. Having a broken switch or disconnected switch should make the traction stay ON all the time, not the other way around.

If the ABS light is off and the traction control light is on, then my money is on an engine problem setting that light. A misfire and several other timing related sensors on the car can disable the traction control system. Not sure if a blown EBCTM fuse would set just the trac light and not the abs, but its always a good idea to check all fuses with an ohm meter. (hell, ive found solution to other problems that way)

Do you have access to a scan tool to check for pending codes? maybe your CEL is out.


Dont think this will solve your problem but to replace the switch yes the dash must be removed, or at least lifted up, and yes it is one long piece of dash.

Oh, and welcome!

On the recent shop visit I had a "service engine soon" light. Is that the light you mean by
CEL? That code showed a gas cap issue and the light had gone on and off frequently for a long time. Yesterday I removed the negative cable on the battery for a period of time and the light went away. So in answer to your question, I don't have the tool but the shop only mentioned that code.

The only reason I asked about the switch was because of the fact there was on definitive click when I push it and I thought I remembered there always had been before.

Thanks for your input and thanks for the welcome.

I dont have a click on mine. Its the same switch action as the odometer reset button right above it.
Yes cel is a check engine light or service engine soon.
Next time the light comes on take the car to autozone and have them tell you if there is a code. Then post that number here.

Is there any difference on the ABS module between the Riviera 1995 and the 1996?

I'm currently running on the '96 and on the '95 I’m using it for parts that I might need, for instance I think the WSS are not working and planning to change those using the ones on the '95. Can anybody tell me the differences between the '95 and the '96, besides having the series I and the other one the series II engine?
Thank you.

Christian

the "Traction Off" , "ABS" and "Check Engine" light came on all at the same time a few minutes after I did a hard acceleration I’ll will have it checked for any codes and let you know my findings, as I have some problems with my CKP sensor, I think is the wiring harness because when it doesn't start I start moving the cables near the sensor and it runs again, so that's probably why all the lights came on at the same time.

I just bought this car ('96) 2 weeks ago and I’ve already replaced the fuel line that feeds the fuel rail with 176,275 miles the hard plastic tube just broke and fuel started coming out of it and I didn't noticed it just when i opened the hood to check the tranny fluid I thought it will CATCH ON FIRE!

Any way I have 2 Riveras 1995 and 1996 but the other one is not in good conditions so I’ll be using that one for parts

A lot changed in the front end between '95 and '96. A good parts lookup site like rockauto.com against the two different years would show you if they took the same part number or not.

deekster_caddy wrote:

A lot changed in the front end between '95 and '96. A good parts lookup site like rockauto.com against the two different years would show you if they took the same part number or not.

Well thats bad; but thanks for the advise, I actually buy a lot of parts from rockauo.com

ever since i got my car from its previous owner the traction off light has always been on. they didnt know what it means and why it stays on, and i dont know either. i press the traction on/off button but nothing happens. why is it on and how can i get it off? does it hamper the car in perfrmance in any way when it is on?

There's lots of info earlier in this thread. Usually the "TC off" lamp comes on because it fails a check, indicating there is a bad wheel speed sensor. The sensors are built into all 4 hubs. It only hampers performance when the wheels spin - the PCM won't be able to adjust the wheel spin correctly. This is most important in snow or wet weather conditions.

Hope someone can help me?
I replaced both front hubs on my 1995 rib
Still have stock rear hubs on but did not change car has 180,000 miles could the rear hubs effect traction control

Also when lights come on and I press brakes I could feel brake pedal vibrate

It may be your rear sensors causing the issue, the ABS pump itself, or a wiring problem. Because the cost of replacing these parts is high, you may want to pay a specialist for diagnosis.

The vibration you feel seems to indicate the system thinks a wheel is spinning faster than it really is, so TC is engaged. Are all your wheels & tires the same size?

The vibration you feel may also be warped rotors.

Have any of you ever had a problem with not being able to turn your traction control off? The only time it ever turns off is in the winter after i have to use it going up my drive way it will eventually give up and the light will come on. I would like to be able to turn it off with the button.

I thought warped rotors, too, but I think he says it only happens when the ABS lamp is on.

Good point, if the rotors were warped they would vibrate regardless of the light being on or not.

It's worth paying somebody with an ABS scanner to read the codes and diagnose the bad part for you.

I have this arrangement with a local shop who knows I DIY my work, but can't read these codes. I pay $30 for them to plug in their scanner and tell me the error code, plus they will put the car up and spin each wheel, and watch the output from each sensor on their scanner. Believe me, it's worth the relationship. I don't waste money or time replacing wheel bearings that don't need replacing.

I have been having an issue r.e. the TC and ABS lights coming on for several months now, and as some of you may know, I got into a nice wake up call accident a few weeks ago that could have been *much* worse than it was. I was involved in a four-car pile-up on the way home for July 4th weeken... wait, it was in the middle of the week. Damned calendars... Anyway, I was the last of four cars in the wreckage and, thankfully, only got a nice big hole in the front bumper thanks to a van's hitch. Of course, the van's back was unscathed... its front is another story. The second car was sandwiched... I don't know if the driver made it. I am used to the ABS being on, so you can imagine the slew of curses coming out of my mouth when my wheels locked up after slamming on the brakes. I guess I learned my lesson... take care of problems before they grow.

Regardless, at first, the lights would come on intermittently. Sometimes, the TC light would come on by itself for a long period, to be followed by the ABS light at a random time in the future. The lights would come on when I started the car at points, but not always. I drove over 50 miles on the highway without the lights coming on one day (about a month into this issue) only to have them come on when I slowed down to exit.

At this point, they are constantly on, but there was definitely a process to arrive at this point. The good news is, I found a bumper at a junkyard that I can use to replace mine, and that should be done some time soon. I tried to contact Tom, sqrivi's buddy, but I haven't gotten a response.

I also got the problem diagnosed by a guy that does work all over the state. He says that the root of my problem is the "brake pressure modulator valve." Unfortunately, he didn't give me a part number and didn't give me a better description of the problem. That's what $20 gets you, I guess. He's only in town once a week, as my luck would have it! Right now, I'm wondering what the hell this valve is, and why it costs around $700+ to get a new one. I guess it has to do with the car approaching "classic" status, though to me, it's being a classic pain in the ass. Why would this valve not be doing its job suddenly? I'm going to another shop to get a second opinion, but does anybody have any idea as to a part number to set me on the right path? I'll update this thread as often as I can

One thing that can happen is if the brake fluid is not changed regularly (every couple years or so) it can take on so much moisture that the internal parts in the brake system can rust. More than one RivPerformance newbie has said "I got this car it's real sweet but the ABS light's on it's not serious is it?" only to discover, when we talk him through troubleshooting, that the PO's neglect has allowed enough water to accumulate in the system that the ABS valves have rusted stuck.

The ABS Modulator valve is GM # 25653457, which shoul dbe on the part, and rockauto.com shows them for $500 each. Autopartstomorrow.com shows them for $458 plus shipping. I bet you can get a good one from a junkyard for short money. They were widely used in the 1991 - 1995 large PBOCs. (PBOC = Pontiac-Buick-Olds-Cadillac). I am thinking $50 to $100 dep. on the yard and the apparent condition. I would call a real dismantler, or maybe Ed Morad (Moradpartscompany.com). You need to find the thing, get the part number off it, and call a junkyard or maybe check car-part.com to get a replacement. A good dismantler should have little trouble spotting a good one of these for you.

By the way I hate to break it to you but "TC and ABS lights coming on for several months now" does not support your assertion that the brake problem started suddenly... and yes, a "classic" as a daily driver presents myriad issues.

Suddenly does not necessarily refer to sudden in the *present* and I said no such thing. The lights suddenly came on a few months ago. That is what I mean. Sorry for the apparent confusion.

Considering that this is my first car, I am learning everything the hard way, it seems. Too bad many driver's ed classes don't teach you to change your brake fluid every few years. I didn't even learn how to parallel park when I took the class! That's what a government-sponsored (and taxpayer-funded) public education system gets you, I suppose.

I wouldn't doubt that that moisture problem that you are referring to would be the cause of my symptoms/problem. I honestly cannot remember when the brake fluid was changed last, which isn't a good thing! I guess I'm lucky in another sense... I haven't had to replace any of my hubs yet, and the car has over 150k miles on it! Thank you so much, Albert. Your advice is always top-notch.

ZEP wrote:

Suddenly does not necessarily refer to sudden in the *present* and I said no such thing. The lights suddenly came on a few months ago. That is what I mean. Sorry for the apparent confusion.

Considering that this is my first car, I am learning everything the hard way, it seems. Too bad many driver's ed classes don't teach you to change your brake fluid every few years. I didn't even learn how to parallel park when I took the class! That's what a government-sponsored (and taxpayer-funded) public education system gets you, I suppose.

I wouldn't doubt that that moisture problem that you are referring to would be the cause of my symptoms/problem. I honestly cannot remember when the brake fluid was changed last, which isn't a good thing! I guess I'm lucky in another sense... I haven't had to replace any of my hubs yet, and the car has over 150k miles on it! Thank you so much, Albert. Your advice is always top-notch.

Thanks for clearing things up. I had to learn a lot by scraping knuckles too; I tend to "confess" my lessons learned, you'll find them various places on this site.

So... let's "hit the reset button.."

When you have a little time you will probably find the thread on maintenance helpful:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/t6916-faq-maintenance-lessons-first-200000-miles

...actually, it could be a huge help. I tried to get the other members to post their "lessons learned" there. It's not complete but I think if you have a look you'll be able to learn much to help head off a lot of other stuff before it gets expensive. It is a work in progress but should help you a lot with useful insights. I'd call it a work in progress.

No kiddin', you should be able to get that brake pressure modulator valve from a junkyard. call a few, they will generally be helpful.