Plog!! (power log thread)

Yes but I am asking if they would be a good upgrade for someone with an otherwise stock car? Do they help with anything that would be needed for mods if done later down the road?

A well-ported front manifold will flow much better than stock. The openings where it bolts to the head are all partially blocked by a poor casting process. However, the tubes are quite small in diameter and can only be opened up just so far. If you can and want to port it yourself, YES it is worth doing. I did mine last year, first time effort for me. I wouldn't spend the money for a vendor's PEM, just buy a Plog instead.

This past weekend I swapped out my Plog and crossover, and reinstalled the oem crossover and my front PEM. Discovered a possible contributor to my increased KR levels with the Plog (besides NOT skewing the injectors).

When I installed the Plog, I left off the heat shields that were a real PITA to remove. However, I never removed a heat shield that resides just below the Plog-to-crossover connection, as it wasn't in the way, it seemed. But when I pulled the Plog on Saturday, I discovered an indentation on the lower/back side, caused by the head of that shield's attaching bolt. I also found carbon streaks on the lower edges of the Plog's flange mating surface, extending to the edge of the flange. So I had a slight exhaust leak, probably also pulling in some air, at all three tubes. This was not apparent with the engine running and hood open. No visual or audible clues about a leak.

Anyone else running a Plog find this happened to them also? If I had felt around the backside of the Plog, I'd have found this contact with the bolt. But it's not visible from above. I have not seen any mention of NEEDING to remove this particular heat shield on a Riv installation, and it's not in the way when removing the stock manifold. Anyway, I told Ben he'll need to remove the heat shield in that location, to avoid this same issue. I snapped a pic of the offending shield, will try to get it posted tonight. Might contact ZZP and mention this pitfall on the Riv installations.

Isn't that my old PLOG? If so, that indentation was from my car as well, although it didn't have any exhaust leak on mine. I'm pretty sure I told you about it...

I left almost all of the heat shields in place that were under the PLOG, but removed the ones above it, IIRC.

No Derek, I bought this new from ZZP.

I just checked and its getting a little dark but i felt where it came in contact with a shield , but i couldn't feel any indent with a bolt. Can you get a pic of where exactly the hole on your plog is?

I'll post a pic shortly of the shield on the engine.

If you're standing looking down towards the Plog on your engine, the bolt head would be contacting the Plog on almost the exact opposite side from your angle of view. Like about a 135deg angle down and back from the top of the Plog.

Ok, here it is. The offending bolt head would be the one just a hair to the right of the spark plug tip.

Wow, thanks Dave. This pic really shows it. Now when I do the job, there's not going to be nearly as many surprises.

I just hope it's okay to remove all these heat shields, ya know?

Hey, put them back on if you'd feel better that way. That coated Plog put out a lot less heat than the stock cast iron manifold did. Leave off that one offending shield though. Unless you want to increase that indentation before installation. Might be hard on the coating though.

If it's more thermally efficient than the cast piece, I suppose there should be no problem.

But seriously, why all these heat shields - what are they trying to shield the heat from?

Not sure what all is in the vicinity... starter? A/C condensor? Dunno for sure. I'd have put them back on, but didn't really want to deal with ONE particular screw that's a real PITA.

I should get them back on now, with the PEM back on. I messed around trying to position them last weekend, but couldn't quite figure out how they went back on. Anyone got a pic with the shields in place?

The A/C compressor is right below the exhaust manifold. They are to keep heat away from the A/C lines and the engine block itself...

Do I need to mess with the dipstick tube when putting the front P-log on, or not? I know you have to with headers, but that's completely different.

I pulled the tube up and out of the block an inch or 2 so that it can be maneuvered while getting the Plog in place. But it bolts right back in where it was, no changes needed.

Never saw one of these before. They look easy to make.
Where exactly are they prone to crack ??????

Primaries/flanges. Apparently ZZPs welds in that area are sub par.

Any good tips on how to clean one of these up, prep, and paint it?

Thank you!

I'd buy one JET ceramic coated, or send it away for the service. Paint just falls off headers after a few cycles. There's high temp paint, but it can still chip, and then you'll need to pull it off and touch up.

Does a ceramic coat make that much of a difference? This is a cheap 2nd hand solution until headers come along... what about wrapping a plog? any benefit or detrimental effects in doing that?

Users have reported their PLOGs cracking. Wrapping will only make this more likely to happen. I guess paint it and hope you get your $100 worth.

just get SSAC headers lol... $250 shipped to your door you really can't go wrong

What this guy said ^^

I got a plog for the wife's 98. The only reason its useful is because I can TIG the cracks myself. in hindsight, headers were the way to go. They are way cheap now, and can include a downpipe which further improves their value.

If/when I get headers, they are going to be those $600 stainless ones. A PLOG is fine for my build right now.
Any suggestions on a 304 SS cleaner/polish? The guy I got it from painted it, and like AA said, it has chipped off. Well, mostly.