SilverStars, EuroLights, X-treme Power & other Halogen Bulbs

IBx1 wrote:

Looking at their site, I see 9006 and 9006XS. What's the difference?

9006XS has a straight connector instead of the 90 degree elbow connector like the stock ones. Get the non-XS

Gotcha, thanks. The straight connector makes it harder to actually put the bulbs in because of the twisting. Tight space + hand + sharp metal everywhere + torqueing a HID bulb in = not fun.

Speaking of EuroLights, mine should be ready to fail soon. First pair burned out Dec 17th, 2007. Next pair lasted until Dec 18th, 2008. It's been warmer lately, so maybe I'll get more out of them this time.

I just ordered a pair of the Eurolights (9005) for the High Beams. Maybe they will add the light I'm looking for.
It get's dark so early I'm using my lights more and have been traveling at night more also.
The yellow beam's just aren't cutting it. They are diluting the bright white lights of the low beam PIAA"s.
I really like the the PIAA's but at $80.00 per pair compared to $35.00 shipped, I'll try these for now.

I still have my OEM high beams, Rick. Every time I switch them on, it makes me notice how blue-white the Eurolights headlamps are. I hope you like them - made a huge difference for me.

So I installed these Eurolights last week as my last SilverStars finally burned out. The light looks about the same to me. The only plus will be if they outlast the SS bulbs, which it doesn't sound like they will, and they are a little bit cheaper (but sometimes I can get the SS on sale...)

Oh well, so continues the search for good, reliable lighting. I'll report back with a burn-out date next year, and until then... I'll order my next pair to keep in the glove box!

albertj wrote:

It would be nice to make the Riv have separate DRLs instead of using the hogh beams at half power.


I would want to try studding the low-beam reflectors with high brightness white or amber LEDs to serve as the DRLs or arranging them as 'eyebrows' in the top edge or bars at the bottom edge of the front lens.
Albertj

Sounds like someone has Audi envy...

But seriously folks, look at all the GM trucks out there with dedicated DRLs - they seem to start running with one burned out as soon as they drive off the lot. Using the high beam bulbs at half power means the life of the bulb is a LOT longer, just like using a dimmer or "slow-on" switch for your house lights... I've got a bulb in my bedroom reading lamp that has a little silicon chip stuck on the base that gives it 4 levels of brightness and "soft-start" each time you flip the switch. It's been in there for 15 YEARS!! Plus, the highs don't get used that much anyway, and you're not going to be in trouble with either visibility or Johnny Law if and when one of them does burn out. And unlike the Aurora, which used the more-important low-beams, they don't even have a resistor that can fail, they run like the fans, series for half power and parallel for full...

Sorry, I just had to find SOMETHING the General did right

Agreed. My Riv's high beams are 12 years old! The secret to extending any incandescent bulb's life is to use one rated at high voltage and run with a fraction of the amount. That's how they've kept the Centennial bulb in a CA fire dept. has been running non-stop for over 100 years!

get HIDs and call it a day, ive had them for almost 2 years now and this is the second winter with them. original bulbs, original ballasts, never had any troubles with them. and about the DRLs delete them, and then if you want lights on in the day pull your headlight switch to the parking lamp setting.
these pics were taken before i aimed them up a little too:

Tyler,
Who did you buy your HID's from.?
Sounds like you have had better luck than most with non-failure of the ballasts.
It seems to me that everyone that has mentioned installing some of the kits available on EBay have had pre-mature ballast failures, although the vendor has replaced them without a hassle.
I would like to not have to hassle with replacing ballast's so often.!
And I agree with you on simplifying the wiring, when installing a relay, by just eliminating the DRL's by cutting the blue wire and using the headlight switch if you want lights on during the day.

I would never give up my DRLs. I've seen the difference they make in keeping people from pulling out in front of you because of the added visibility...

It seems as though most people on here who have installed HIDs have only done their low beams, and don't need highs with the new lights. The folks like me with regular bulbs are the ones that need the hi-beam relay trick, and I figured out how to do it while preserving the DRLs... We'll get that diagram updated pretty soon.

I have a few issues with HIDs -
1) people seem to have a high rate of ballast failure
2) expensive
3) most of the aftermarket kits I've seen do not 'aim' the bulb, or have the upper portion of the bulb cut off properly, as the OEM style do. I'll try to get a pic of my wife's car (factory HIDs) light pattern against the garage door so you can see what I'm talking about. Without cutting off the upper portion of the beam, you are blinding oncoming traffic. Being the recipient of this blinding glare, I hate it and refuse to ever install it on my car. I am tempted to swerve into the oncoming lane every time I see it coming at me. If you can show me that the aftermarket bulbs are adjustable somehow so they do not do this, I will reconsider.

i bought the ones from ebay a while back and had some problems with the ballasts failing. first one was returned promptly but when the other side went out i got the run around and still have not received a new one. i ended up buying a replacement ballast from a different co on ebay and it seems to be better quality.
Even with replacing the ballasts i've only spent like $65 for everything and shipping. new ballasts are really quite cheap.
HID kits are not that much more than the silverstars that last a year.
Re-aim the HID's and you shouldnt have any problems. i occasionally get flashed on dark back roads, but it's hard to tell if it's b/c they think the light is in their eyes or they just think the lights are too bright.
Rick, this probably doesnt prove my point (rather is proves yours), but here is my HID vs silverstar on my garage wall. this is before i aimed them too.

to me the light output area is the same as a normal bulb, its just a whole lot brighter. i only have problems with cars that have HID's that are not aimed properly.

deekster_caddy wrote:

I have a few issues with HIDs -
1) people seem to have a high rate of ballast failure
2) expensive
3) most of the aftermarket kits I've seen do not 'aim' the bulb, or have the upper portion of the bulb cut off properly, as the OEM style do. I'll try to get a pic of my wife's car (factory HIDs) light pattern against the garage door so you can see what I'm talking about. Without cutting off the upper portion of the beam, you are blinding oncoming traffic. Being the recipient of this blinding glare, I hate it and refuse to ever install it on my car. I am tempted to swerve into the oncoming lane every time I see it coming at me. If you can show me that the aftermarket bulbs are adjustable somehow so they do not do this, I will reconsider.

Okay, I will take back the 'expensive' bit, but I still don't like the aim, and still hear a lot about ballast issues. It seems like your only choice is cheap cheap made in china parts, or very expensive (and still probably made in china) parts. Maybe in a few more years they'll have this figured out.

Mr.Riviera wrote:

i bought the ones from ebay a while back and had some problems with the ballasts failing. first one was returned promptly but when the other side went out i got the run around and still have not received a new one. i ended up buying a replacement ballast from a different co on ebay and it seems to be better quality.
Even with replacing the ballasts i've only spent like $65 for everything and shipping. new ballasts are really quite cheap.
HID kits are not that much more than the silverstars that last a year.
Re-aim the HID's and you shouldnt have any problems. i occasionally get flashed on dark back roads, but it's hard to tell if it's b/c they think the light is in their eyes or they just think the lights are too bright.
Rick, this probably doesnt prove my point (rather is proves yours), but here is my HID vs silverstar on my garage wall. this is before i aimed them too.

Wow, and I thought Silverstar lights were a major improvement. Now I want HID lights. I don't care about getting flashed, I just want to see better.

I guess I'll stick with PIAA's for now. They are pricey, but they work damn good and have been reliable not only in my car but vibrating out front on one of my older Harley's without a failure yet.
3 years on the bike, albeit not that many miles but ON at all times and 2 years in the Riv.

Rickw wrote:

Tyler,
Who did you buy your HID's from.?
Sounds like you have had better luck than most with non-failure of the ballasts.
It seems to me that everyone that has mentioned installing some of the kits available on EBay have had pre-mature ballast failures, although the vendor has replaced them without a hassle.
I would like to not have to hassle with replacing ballast's so often.!
And I agree with you on simplifying the wiring, when installing a relay, by just eliminating the DRL's by cutting the blue wire and using the headlight switch if you want lights on during the day.

www.3bspecialties.com
i believe they have a 1 or 2 year warranty too, not that youll need it

deekster_caddy wrote:

I have a few issues with HIDs -
1) people seem to have a high rate of ballast failure
2) expensive
3) most of the aftermarket kits I've seen do not 'aim' the bulb, or have the upper portion of the bulb cut off properly, as the OEM style do. I'll try to get a pic of my wife's car (factory HIDs) light pattern against the garage door so you can see what I'm talking about. Without cutting off the upper portion of the beam, you are blinding oncoming traffic. Being the recipient of this blinding glare, I hate it and refuse to ever install it on my car. I am tempted to swerve into the oncoming lane every time I see it coming at me. If you can show me that the aftermarket bulbs are adjustable somehow so they do not do this, I will reconsider.

1)still on 1st ballasts/lights after 2 yrs/winters
2)ill give you that, but damn well worth it in my book. with how many silverstars i was replacing the HIDs already payed for themselves and more.
3)i was able to adjust my HIDs with the same factory light adjustment, and i am not one of those assholes youre talking about. i have my drivers side aimed down more than the passenger side for just that reason and can still see great.
what you are talking about are projectors that direct the light output of HIDs, these can be retrofitted into our lenses with some work but with how much i can see it hasnt bothered me yet.

I see the point - a sharper horizontal cutoff would help everyone -- more light aimed where the driver needs it and less blinding oncoming drivers. A pointer to those projectors, Tyler, would be helpful and thanks.

Albertj

Rickw wrote:

I guess I'll stick with PIAA's for now. They are pricey, but they work damn good and have been reliable not only in my car but vibrating out front on one of my older Harley's without a failure yet.
3 years on the bike, albeit not that many miles but ON at all times and 2 years in the Riv.

Rick, which PIAA model are you using? Intense White, Extreme White Plus(slight blue tint), or the Super Plasma GT-X(purple low beam)?

I'm considering the Extreme White Plus low beam bulbs for winter driving.

albertj wrote:

I see the point - a sharper horizontal cutoff would help everyone -- more light aimed where the driver needs it and less blinding oncoming drivers. A pointer to those projectors, Tyler, would be helpful and thanks.

Albertj

you would have to do somewhat of your own research as to what projector can be had the cheapest, but still fit the riv or park aves headlight good. some of the regal guys have used lexus projectors and they look pretty good. after looking really quick over at regalgs.org i found this thread with retrofitted projectors, about half way down page 1 there is a good pic of the cut off some of you are talking about.
http://www.regalgs.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=65376&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&hilit=projector

here are a couple other threads that have how-to videos and a current projector project w/ video:
http://www.regalgs.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=59320&p=619967&hilit=projector#p619967

http://www.regalgs.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=67301&p=700170&hilit=projector#p700170

97 park ave wrote:

3)i was able to adjust my HIDs with the same factory light adjustment, and i am not one of those assholes youre talking about. i have my drivers side aimed down more than the passenger side for just that reason and can still see great.

Thank you!

1998 Riv wrote:

Rick, which PIAA model are you using? Intense White, Extreme White Plus(slight blue tint), or the Super Plasma GT-X(purple low beam)?
I'm considering the Extreme White Plus low beam bulbs for winter driving.

Extreme White Plus Blue 4000K, they only have a blue tint when they are OFF.
Once they are ON, they produce a crisp white light. Not yellowish like the standard bulbs.