need advice for next set of mods

ok i have to admit the series I isn't that fast as i would like it to be even with a CAI, 2.5 pulley, resonator delete, and performance mufflers. so i have noticed some kr issues when accelerating so my big question what is the next best set of mods to do for my car. 104 or 103 plugs? should i do any more work underneath the car like a cat delete? install the cam first? what parts will be best to cool my engine down? please help im really confused on what my next set of mods should be.

a cat delete will not yield much power. if you are running a smaller pulley then you should already have the 104 plugs installed. 103's may be overkill unless you really race it all the time.
what are you using to monitor kr? whats the peak? how much boost are you peaking at with the 2.5 on the series 1?

a cam or rockers are an option to add hp and reduce kr, but you really need to be able to tune it to get the full potential and hp.
you could also P&P the TB and blower. i dont know if any vendors will do it for the series 1's.
if you do decide to p&p then you need to work on the internals some to open up the air flow inside the engine.

Yes, go with the 104's. I also suspect your front exhaust manifold is as bad as the S II front manifold. See if you can find someone to port yours, or get a spare to port. Do it yourself if you feel like giving porting a try. Exhaust flow on the front bank is likely very poor. Rockers are a good mod to move more air thru the engine, and an easier install than a cam.

etosino2009 wrote:

............ what parts will be best to cool my engine down? ....

A 180 thermostat, and lowering your cooling fan's turn-on settings. Don't know about the fan settings on a Series I though.

you could also P&P the TB and blower. so what is P&P i dont really understand. but also im going to get a scanner b/c i have no idea what kind of kr problems im haveing but i can defintley feel it when i WOT. also what do you guys mean when porting my exhausts manifold? srry guys i don't know much

P&P is "port and polish".

Porting is cleaning up and opening up an intake or exhaust port, or supercharger, usually by grinding away excess metal, so that there is less flow restriction. The OEM front exhaust manifold is ugly.... I should have pics I can post.

This pic shows the blockage pretty well. The opening should be a fully open circle to match the head ports. These are crap from the factory. But there's also a big limit on what porting the exh manifold will do for you, since the main body of the manifold is also waaaay too small for the 3 tubes dumping into it.

Remeber he has a series 1 L67 his exhaust manifolds are diffrent.




(pictures taken from bonnevilleclub member Willwren)

Look familiar. I am pretty sure ZZP got the idea for the power log from the series 1 exhaust manifolds. It has been found that you don't need to port them.

Porting you Lower intake manifold will yield some results.

willwren wrote:

And mine (currently on the car):

Before



Measuring:



After:

You can go to bonnevilleclub to research it more.

Interesting, thanks for posting this. I have not seen Series I manifolds before.

hey guys thanks for all the advice but i guess what i should do is def go with the 104 plugs to prevent the kr issues i have and then maybe a 180 thermostat. but as for the exhausts i guess ill try taking it to midas and have some custom work done or porting the intakes, then ill maybe order the rockers.

if ur gonna do that u should get MSD wire as well i got them for my riv, im not sure how good they work but they look nice, i will tell u how they work when i get the riv running

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D32789&N=700+4294892415+4294840137+4294864973+115&autoview=sku

thats the ones i got there for a GTP but they fit great with some extra, very easy to install cough

180 t-stat and 104s should have been done before the pulley drop. that why they are supporting mods. hopefuly you havent done any damage since you say you can actualy feel the KR.

heat leads to knock on FI engines

palermocorey90 wrote:

if ur gonna do that u should get MSD wire as well i got them for my riv, im not sure how good they work but they look nice, i will tell u how they work when i get the riv running

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D32789&N=700+4294892415+4294840137+4294864973+115&autoview=sku

thats the ones i got there for a GTP but they fit great with some extra, very easy to install cough

Well i just had mine replaced not too long ago but are they perfomance ones or better than stock?


But to the kr issues the engine seems to be running fine its only when i go WOT is when i can feel it, where it dosent accelerat smoothly.

im honestly not to sure just yet but with the size of the wires it cant hurt thats for sure

don't buy into the aftermarket spark plug wire hype. Buy whichever ones you like best. I go with the cheapest ones (not the jobber specials... you know what I mean).

MSD isn't really better or worse than their competitors. I have some on my roadmaster, but it's because they were 60$ for the set instead of 158 for the delcos (crazy, eh?)

the only wires that can legitimately do what they claim -bettter EFI and RFI suppression- are magnecores.

Larger plug wires haven't been proven to add any performance. They are typically the same size core with more insulation surrounding it. We can take an example from the S2 performance companies...they all run stock wires and stock coils.

The changes GM made from S1 to S2 were substantial. The S1 does have potential though. Oldsman mentioned the manifolds are tubular and close to a header in their flowing ability. The intake manifold can be ported to notice some gains. I have personally ported two or three and there is enough room for improvement to warrant pulling the manifold. Don't worry about a perfect gasket match unless you plan on matching the heads or at least chamfering the edge to help the transition.

Now.. here's the hard part. Like the S2 the S1 could benefit from tuning and it's a lot harder. There are some guys out there that do this type of thing. I believe Ryan from Sinisterperformance is one of the main guys. If you are flowing more air, then you need to ensure the ecu is aware of how much fuel to add.

I personally ran my car a little lean when adding a ported TB w/o any tuning. Porting a TB is tricky because it allows more air to enter, however the maf isn't skewed for the added air. Therefore the ecu believes the airflow has not increased and does not add more fuel. I learned quickly by watching my O2's and fuel trims.

Rockers will help, a cam would be custom at the moment. Another place to get a bit more out of your S1 is in the transmission. The car was programmed with nice soft shifts. A shift kit will help firm things up and transmit that power to the ground.

Thanks for the useful Series I info, Bill!

hey thanks bill, my plugs are new so i guess ill just leave those alone. but it's intresting how you said that i need to watch ecu and how much fuel it adds. would it be better if i did this to reset the computer so it re-learns my driving habits and how much fuel it shoud enter?

Actually that would be the best way. However it is not the optimum way. It will start by running you on defaults and then start adding fueling etc based on O2's and the tables it has to work with.

Recently a friend sent me the bin (programming) file for a 93 S1 SC bonneville. Having worked with the S2 tables in HP Tuners it amazed me how few tables and modifiying ability the S1 ecu/pcm's have. While this file was a 93 and basically one of the beginning/learning years vs your 95 which would have much more programming. It really showed the differences and why the newer pcms can react better and quicker.to various conditions.

The way I would approach it would be to talk to a tuner that can program a chip for you. Then scan the parameters they request to get a custom tune that has modified tables for your specific needs.

hey man thanks for the info i think i might take it to intense racing here in columbus since their specialty is 3800 series.

INTENSE may not be able to help much. Their specialty is 3800 Series II's.

Although it wouldn't hurt to say hi to a great bunch of guys. Tell Todd I said "hi". Is it wrong when I know their # from memory? Oh yeah..nearly every part on my car came from Plain City OH.