HELP!! head-unit repair

i've been having a problem wiht my rear speakers cutting out b/c the wires behind the head unit wer getting crimped and broken.
so i pulled it apare this past weekend to try to fix it, course i broke it more in the processs and now they do not work at all.
i ordered a new wire harness that fits my ALpine 9827 unit. i figured i would just rewire it and drill out the back so i won't have any more problems. i have everything rewired and properly spliced and caped. all colors match up...all 16 of them. but IT WILL NOT POWER ON!!!!
what am i doing wrong? i checked the fuse for the power line behind the unit and it doent look blown or broken, i even tried jumping the power line to make it turn on but no-go. is there some trick to making it power on the "first" time?? are there other fuses i should check? any help would be nice b/c i cant very well drive w/o music it has been working for 2 yrs now..including yesterday, so its not a broken unit.
Matthew

ok i was checking the power going to the wire harness, and the red wire (suposed to be for ign pwr) has 12V going to it, and i was useing the black ground on the harness as well. the only other wire that i think should have power is the yellow wire, which im not getting any reading from.
(shouldn't i see 12v there too?) the fuse for the radio is good and im getting 12V to that fuse.
here is a pic of the wires.these are the only wires of importance AFAIK-

6 Switched Power Lead (Ignition) (Red)
Connect this lead to an open terminal on the vehicle's fuse
box or another unused power source which provides (+)12V
only when the ignition is turned on or in the accessory
position.
7 Battery Lead (Yellow)
Connect this lead to the positive (+) post of the vehicle's
battery.
8 Ground Lead (Black)
Connect this lead to a good chassis ground on the vehicle.
Make sure the connection is made to bare metal and is
securely fastened using the sheet metal screw provided.

Our stock wiring uses yellow for ignition voltage, so you'll need to turn the key on to see +12 volts there.

Maybe you have red (constant power) and yellow (ignition power) mixed up?

its the way they were before i pulled it apart. i lose power to red once the key is out btw
i've had the unit un pluged a bunch of times before and never had a problem with it powering back on. maybe i'll swap the red and yellow and see what happens.

Check your fuses, too,

are there more than one fuse? the one in the door fuse box, that says radio, is good.

No that's it. There are some under the rear seat, but I don't think they'd affect the head.

thanks for your help so far Aaron, i'm still working on it. i went out and got new fuses just to make sure there wasn't a break i couldn't see. and i found that i have to have power to the red AND yellow wires. i swaped red and yellow and the unit powered on! but that is not how it was wired up before.
so...can anyone with a wiring diagram look to see where the ORANGE wire that goes to the GM harness gets its power from? it goes from orange to the harness which it then come out of as yellow.
thank you

baisicly where does this orange top-right wire come from?

and since im only missing the positive lead from the bat. can i just tap into another 12V lead? or even split off the red 12V? could that put too much draw on the red wire?

hmmmm when my freind installed his own head unit and he broke something internally!!!! so i just kept mine stock for now and he has a P.O.S. ford escort!!

I thought the orange wire constant +12v from the battery.

it is suposed to be, but im getting nothing from it! does it go to a relay, fuse or strait to the bat?

It has to be fused somewhere. That's got to be your problem. I'd use a multi-tester to trace the orange wire back to the fuse or wherever the break is.

Yah put in new fuses where ever u can (that goes bak to the head unit) thats how we actually solved his problem MAYBE we returnde the broken head unit and then they tested it there and said it was fine but still gave us a new one !!!!! LOL but then we edventually got it to work !!!! so GET TO THE FUSES or is there a possibility that u had power and when the 12v had power did it accidently touch the ground????? thats how i blew my sub fuse hahahaha oops

how can i find where the orange goes? it runs way back behind the dash and down into oblivion!
the head unit is fine, all speakers are fine, ground is good, 10A fuse for the positive power line is good im just not getting any power from the bat to the wire and i dont know how to find where its broke or burnt.
how can i find where the orange wire goes? it runs way back behind the dash and down into oblivion! does it go to the small fuse on the door panel? i replaced that fuse too! and checked to make sure it was getting power there. (it says radio, does that mean head unit power or something else?)
thanx again guys, i really dont have the money to take it somewhere..i just bought a 3" DP from ZZP

IDK man but if i were u id get the power from somewhere else maybe !!!!!!! idk kno if that makes sense but its worth a try

like i said earlier, can i pull it from the red 12V suply (ie run 2 things on that?) or would it pull too much?

i dont kno much bout that aspect but idk how much money u have but i bet u could have circuit city or best buy look at it on a Non peak hour for 20 bucks tops

ok..day 2 doesnt anyone have a manual with diagrams showing where the orange comes from? the gm harness has 2 positive leads afaik, green and orange, the green works fine but its powering the pac swix controler and i dont think it wise to run the head unit and the pac with that one wire. so i either need to lay a new wire from the head to the bat or find the break in the orange. there must be a relay or a in-wire fuse b/c i have ohm tested every fuse i could find!
please help!

Ok, I didn't think it'd be that hard, but if you can't trace it, use a power source you know will have enough current to power the head. The first thing that comes to mind is the cigarette lighter. Tap into that and call it a day (if it even works, lol!).

ok i found out that there is a fuse under the rear seat that has nothing to do with the radio but since it is a constant lead the orange wire runs from it. so its fixed! kinda...
i have power to the head unit now but the rear speakers are still cuting out! even with the new wire harness. so im thinking it is something loose inside the alpine head unit. im about to pull it apart to try and fix it

thanx again for all the help, im no good with electrical systems :roll:

Have you tested the rear speakers? Maybe they're blown, shorting out the Alpine's amp. That would explain the blown fuse. I'd disconnect the rears until you figure out what's going on.

the rears work and i can get them to play fine if i wiggle the conector in the rear of the deck. but as soon as i put the deck in and put any pressure on the plug they cut out.
and for future reference the fuse that runs to orange is labled IP2 under the rear seat