source of a squeak? (update)

i first noticed this noise the other day when i was backing up into my parking space. it was a metal/metal scraping noise from the front driver side when the wheel was fully cocked to the right. i thought nothing of it, since it was really humid and i spilled some coolant down that side earlier in the day doing a coolant flush. (spilled at the resov)

so i drove home the next day, all fine and dandy the ride home doing up to 105mph, and pulling through some hard turns at 80+ on the highway. there was no noise, no grinding, or unusual feeling in the steering wheel.

i pull into my complex at low speed (10mph) and the first LEFT turn i hear the scraping noise again :/
my first thought was my LF wheel bearing is going out...but why would the driver front side make noise when turning left? shouldnt it be the opposite side going bad?

i put my car into R to back into my parking space (cuz thats how i roll ) and the noise presents itself again but this time it doesnt matter where the wheel is turned, as long as im moving it scrapes/grinds. even just rolling really slow in R it makes horrible noise!

it seems like it is doing it worse when hot, it stops as soon as i apply the brake, and doesnt do it at speed. it always happens in R, and sometimes happens taking left turns at low speed (more the harder the wheel is turned). it never happens when taking rights or going straight. it doesnt seem to get faster/louder with speed, but road noise and engine sounds make it very hard to hear.

sorry for the long rant, but if anyone has any advice to my riddle, please speak up! i dont want to replace my hub bearing if i dont need to.

when was the last time you replaced struts/strut bearings?

Albertj

struts are new KYB GR-2s, bearings and mounts are original but the scraping is from the well area, not up top. thanks for the reply. i will listen more closely just to make sure though

My riv made that noise when the strut bearings were put in updise down. Sounds like metal to metal because ofhte 'engineering' plastic that is used in the parts, amplified by the cone shape of the upper spring seat.

Albertj

albertj wrote:

My riv made that noise when the strut bearings were put in updise down. Sounds like metal to metal because ofhte 'engineering' plastic that is used in the parts, amplified by the cone shape of the upper spring seat.

Albertj

I had upside down strut bearings this past summer. I didn't want to deal with the coil springs, so I had a local shop do the install and they messed it up. But no odd noise symptoms while driving/turning. Discovered the mistake when the car pulled to the right, and an alignment couldn't be done accurately the next morning. Inspection, and help from members here, revealed the upside down KYB bearings. Shop corrected it, fortunately the bearings were not damaged, and did a free alignment. Next time, I'll do the struts myself.

i did mime myself about 6 months ago, no pulling, alignment is perfect, and it hasnt made a peep until this week.

Mine made a noise at fully turned position (can't remember which way) after I put on the FireHawk WO tires. Turns out they rub a very little bit. I just never turn the wheel all the way anymore. Might check the fender wells for rubbing at full turn.

ok... its not doing it at all now :/
maybe b/c it was really cold out today and the bearings never warmed up, or maybe it fixed itself?? (sure hope so )
i'll keep an ear out for it.

how are your brake pads/rotors? This can occasionally be caused by rust/scale on the rotors.

like i said i first noticed it after a trip home, so they should have been pretty clean and hot.
but the pads and rotors are less than a year old.
it sounds like pad/rotor contact, but it only happens when i'm not touching the brakes, and it does it more in reverse. maybe i have something stuck on the inner pad and it makes more noise going backward

Maybe the slide pins on the caliper need lubed? Or a brake hose/line is clogged?

my pads are dead! and the metal tab on the pad back was scratching the rotor.
glad its not hub bearings or strut mounts.
thanks for everyones help
btw i no longer recommend Bendix pads they only lasted a little over 2 yrs and 20k miles. i do drive hard, but those were the last thing i thought would be worn out.

Are these the Hawk ceramic pads? See my thread:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/suspension-handling-f6/hawk-ceramic-pads--t1054.htm?highlight=hawk+pads

no i had a set of Bendix CT3 ceramic pads. i just got a set of Morse ceramic b/c i'm broke and they were on sale
Aaron, i think our fast wear issue comes from driving style, but i would still like to find a set that stops well and lasts longer than 20 or 30k miles.
4000lbs is a lot of car to stop from 105mph
btw the Bendix wore very evenly and bother side were almost the same. driver side had more wear maybe b/c i brake into left hand turns harder?

I'm very happy with my high-end raybestos pads. They were $85 but worth it.