Write-Up: PAC steering wheel control interface

here is a write up on how to install and program the PAC SWI-X interface. remember, you must have a reciever with a remote control for this to work. I put the LED above the cd player where the dash comes out and its almost out of sight. most people never know its there.
this info is from pac-audio.com (i just condensed it.)

1992-2002 Buick - All models with air bag, with heater controls. 32 pin connector

The INTERFACE's wire color we are going to use is Green. This is the Green wire on the INTERFACE, not the vehicle!
The other wires on the INTERFACE, white, yellow, orange wires are not used for your Buick. The blue wire is for GM vehicles with HVAC controls with a 32 pin connector. There are some exceptions of Buicks that may have a separate 7 pin connector and 21 pin connector.
This leaves you with a Red, Black and two loop wires. These wires will be discussed down below.

note: SWC = steering wheel control

2.

3. Connecting the INTERFACE's SWC input wire to vehicle plug.


Connect the INTERFACE's Green wire to Pin E5 or E6 (Dk. Blue or Lt. Green) of the above connector
Connect INTERFACE's Blue wire to pin E1 (Dk. Green)

4. Connecting power and ground wires.


Black wire: Connect the INTERFACE's black wire to chassis ground. This is usually a black wire on the aftermarket wire harness.
Red wire: Connect the INTERFACE's red wire to a switched +12volt wire. This is usually a red wire on the aftermarket wire harness.

Using an aftermarket wire harness (http://bestkits.com/) will reduce any potential problems. Wire harnesses can be purchased from local stereo shops. Please note that aftermarket wire harnesses do not have a wire in the SWC pin location we mention above. You still have to connect the INTERFACE's Green wire to the wire on the factory side of plug.


5. Instructions for cutting or not cutting loop wires.


Step A: The purple loop wire does not need to be cut.
Step B: The brown loop wire does not need to be cut.


6. Programming the INTERFACE with a version number and 'IR' Mode.

The INTERFACE has to be programmed for version # 4 and set for 'Standard IR' Mode.

1. Press and hold the 'Mode' button on the INTERFACE while turning on the vehicle to the accessory position. Both LED's will turn on.
2. Release the 'Mode' button and both LED's will turn off and then they will turn on for 3 seconds. Wait for 3 seconds and both LED's will turn off.
3. Press the 'Mode' button 4 times. Each time you press and release the 'Mode' button, both LED's will turn on and off. Once you press the "Mode" button 4 times, wait for 3 seconds. The right LED will flash 4 times indicating it is programmed for version 4. If it flashes the wrong version number, you will have to start all over at step 1 above in this section. Turn the key off.
4. Once you have programmed the correct version number, you will not have to do these steps again. If you need to reprogram the SWC and wireless remote functions, you can go directly to the next section.


7. Programming the INTERFACE to learn SWC and wireless remote functions.


1. Turn the key to the accessory position (you do not need to hold the 'Mode' button at this time). The right LED will flash 4 times. This indicates it is programmed for version 4.
2. Press the 'Mode' button until the LEFT LED turns on, then release the button (This will erase all previous learned SWC and wireless remote functions). The INTERFACE is now ready to learn a command from the steering wheel.
3. A. Press the Temp up button on the steering wheel and hold the button. Wait until the LEFT LED turns off before you release the button. When you release the button the LED will turn back on. Repeat for Temp down button.

B. If you have Fan buttons, repeat step A for Fan up and Fan down. Go to step 4.

C. If you do not have Fan buttons, press and release the programming/mode button. The LEFT LED will blink once and stay on. Go to step 4.

4. Press the Volume UP button on the steering wheel and hold the button. Wait until the LEFT LED turns off before you release the button. Note: Please do not press and release the steering wheel button quickly! If you do not press any buttons on the steering wheel, the INTERFACE will time out after 7 seconds, which will turn off the LEFT LED and end programming. If you missed some buttons, you will have to start all over and program from the first button. If the LEFT LED turns off and goes to the right LED without pressing the steering wheel buttons, then there is a wiring issue.
5. The right LED will turn on at this time, waiting to learn from the wireless remote. Note: You do not have a timeout period when the RIGHT LED is on. You can take your time here. However, make sure there is no fluorescent lights or sunlight in sight of the INTERFACE other wise the RIGHT LED will turn off and go to the LEFT LED.
6. Press and hold the wireless remote Volume UP button while pointing the remote towards the INTERFACE's IR input. Wait until the RIGHT LED turns off before you release the button.
7. The LEFT LED will turn on.
8. From here you will do steps 3 through 6 again for each additional button to be programmed. So the next steering wheel button should be Volume DOWN and the wireless remote Volume DOWN. Note: The steering wheel buttons can be assigned any wireless remote function. So if you have for example a 'Mode' button on the steering wheel, you can program it a 'Mute' function from the wireless remote.
9. Once you finish programming the SWC buttons and wireless remote functions, the LEFT LED should be on. Wait for 7 seconds and both LEDS will flash 3 times. This indicates that the INTERFACE has exited programming. The INTERFACE's RIGHT LED will flash 4 times and will be in 'Run Mode'.


8. Testing the INTERFACE.

1. Hold or tape the Infrared LED (blue LED on black wire) to a surface so it is facing towards the aftermarket stereo. It must have a clear line of sight to the stereo. Try to minimize the angle as much as possible.

The best place to mount the LED: In the center console or overhead console (extending the LED wire may be required) and as far back as possible. Behind the domelight cover.
Bad places to mount the infrared LED: Do not mount the LED in stereo installation kit. Do not place LED where cups or other articles will block it. If at all possible, try not to mount where sunlight may shine on LED.

2. With the vehicle on, press a steering wheel button to control the stereo. The INTERFACE should control the aftermarket stereo with what ever function you taught it. Test all other buttons.
3. If you have on or two buttons that do not work but the others do work, then there was a programming error. Please reprogram the INTERFACE (STep 7 in previous section) until all buttons work.
4. Once all the buttons work correctly, you may permanently install the LED.

Where is the 32 pin connector?

EatDirtFartDust wrote:

Where is the 32 pin connector?

behind the head unit there is a wire harness. you tap into those wires to run the PAC adapter.

So it will be very noticeable once I remove the old radio?

The wires are in the factory harness to the factory radio. The aftermarket radio harness plugs into the factory connector, so I found it easier to connect to the strg wheel signal and hvac output wires by cutting and splicing into the wire a few inches back in the factory plug. Noticable? not really, they are just there in the factory harness. You may have to unwrap a little tape to get to them, but they are all color coded.

I've got a pac SWI-PS interface connected to my stereo system. I've got an odd problem though. The interface works great when the key is only in the accessory position. When I turn the car on and try to use it, the temp control and volume control only work intermittenly. The seek and scan buttons function properly all the time. Anyone ever run into this issue?

My volume up/down works _most_ of the time, but sometimes I have to hold the button for a few seconds, sometimes just push it again and it works. Everything else works on the first touch.

mine is the same way. i have concluded that the frequency of that button is close to that of low level thermal radiation. So if the car is in direct sunlight for awhile or the reader gets hot, the freq doesnt register due to the frequency given off by the heat blocks that wavelength.

Mr.Riviera wrote:

i have concluded that the frequency of that button is close to that of low level thermal radiation.

Wow!

I found my solution to the issue. The programming instructions say to program the interface with the ignition set to the accessory position. Well in reality you should do it with the engine running AND your foot on the accelerator enough to get the RPMs up so the alternator is outputting the 14.4 volts average. If you do it this way, the interface programs correctly. I emailed PAC tech support about this and they replied stating that they are aware of this situation. The interface essentially looks for a voltage difference on the line, and if the voltage when it was programmed in accessory mode is more than .5 to 1 volt different then the interface sometimes won't recognize the button push when the vehicle is running and receiving a charge from the alternator.

I discovered this whole thing when I would come to a stop light have my brakes on and be able to use the steering wheel controls, but when driving it wouldn't work. I hooked up my voltmeter and noticed that the voltage while stopped with the brake lights on or regular headlights with brake lights on would make the voltage drop into the 13 volt range briefly before ramping back up. When the vehicle was in the 12-13 volt range is when the interface would work correctly. So long story short, program the interface with the car running and it should fix the problem.

I want to put the resistor in the alternator wire to fake it out and make 14.4+ volts at idle all the time.
I've got to rebuild this alternator soon and am going to add the resistor.
All this will do is probably reduce the life of the rectifier some but so be it.

Someone should get pictures of this. Also, isn't the SWI-X a universal connector? If I have the SWI-JACK(JVC/Alpine/Clarion/Kenwood), will it be more straightforward?

GMFreak8 wrote:

I found my solution to the issue. The programming instructions say to program the interface with the ignition set to the accessory position. Well in reality you should do it with the engine running AND your foot on the accelerator enough to get the RPMs up so the alternator is outputting the 14.4 volts average. If you do it this way, the interface programs correctly. I emailed PAC tech support about this and they replied stating that they are aware of this situation. The interface essentially looks for a voltage difference on the line, and if the voltage when it was programmed in accessory mode is more than .5 to 1 volt different then the interface sometimes won't recognize the button push when the vehicle is running and receiving a charge from the alternator.

I discovered this whole thing when I would come to a stop light have my brakes on and be able to use the steering wheel controls, but when driving it wouldn't work. I hooked up my voltmeter and noticed that the voltage while stopped with the brake lights on or regular headlights with brake lights on would make the voltage drop into the 13 volt range briefly before ramping back up. When the vehicle was in the 12-13 volt range is when the interface would work correctly. So long story short, program the interface with the car running and it should fix the problem.

WOW! This post is something I REALLY needed today! Yesterday I installed Pioneer AVH-3200BT head unit and PAC SWI-PS adapter in 1997 Riviera. I stumbled on this poroblem, that when I programmed PAC -adapter while car wasn't running, it worked fine. All steering wheel controls were functional, BUT when car was running, my SW controls went completely nuts. I mean VOLUME button controlled TEMP functions etc etc... So I might try your seemingly good advice and I post on my progress later. THANKS!

And yes, programmed that thing this evening, while revving engine at 1500rpm, so voltage was right at 14.something. Now it work as it shoud. Thank you very much again!

Programming them is definitely tricky. When I hadd my stereo done, they spent less than a day replacing the head unit, wiring a 5-channel amp, installing rear speakers, building a custom sub box to my specs and then transferring the sub to it, installing an iPod cable and then all the other wiring. On day Two, they spent all day programming the SWC. Really.


On my head unit, the PAC unit plugs directly in.

arttu80 wrote:

GMFreak8 wrote:

I found my solution to the issue. The programming instructions say to program the interface with the ignition set to the accessory position. Well in reality you should do it with the engine running AND your foot on the accelerator enough to get the RPMs up so the alternator is outputting the 14.4 volts average. If you do it this way, the interface programs correctly. I emailed PAC tech support about this and they replied stating that they are aware of this situation. The interface essentially looks for a voltage difference on the line, and if the voltage when it was programmed in accessory mode is more than .5 to 1 volt different then the interface sometimes won't recognize the button push when the vehicle is running and receiving a charge from the alternator.

I discovered this whole thing when I would come to a stop light have my brakes on and be able to use the steering wheel controls, but when driving it wouldn't work. I hooked up my voltmeter and noticed that the voltage while stopped with the brake lights on or regular headlights with brake lights on would make the voltage drop into the 13 volt range briefly before ramping back up. When the vehicle was in the 12-13 volt range is when the interface would work correctly. So long story short, program the interface with the car running and it should fix the problem.

WOW! This post is something I REALLY needed today! Yesterday I installed Pioneer AVH-3200BT head unit and PAC SWI-PS adapter in 1997 Riviera. I stumbled on this poroblem, that when I programmed PAC -adapter while car wasn't running, it worked fine. All steering wheel controls were functional, BUT when car was running, my SW controls went completely nuts. I mean VOLUME button controlled TEMP functions etc etc... So I might try your seemingly good advice and I post on my progress later. THANKS!

And yes, programmed that thing this evening, while revving engine at 1500rpm, so voltage was right at 14.something. Now it work as it shoud. Thank you very much again!

Glad I could help.

Mine worked amazing for awhile. My signal stalk died on me and I had that replaced, and since then it does absolutely nothing. I kinda miss it, but I don't miss it enough to have to take the dash back apart. Maybe next summer. I'm hoping it's just a lose wire somewhere and not a defective unit.

I know this is an old thread, but I have not seen an answer to the following problem:

I had my local stereo installer, Best Buy, put in an Alpine IVE-W535HD head unit along with an Axxess ASWC (steering wheel control interface). All steering wheel buttons work as planned, but the TEMP is randomly increasing without my input. The annoying BEEP and foot-roasting increase in temp is driving me MAD!

I've taken it back to Best Buy twice without satisfaction. Does anyone have a constructive solution?

On the riv the SW controls "signal" by puttying different resistances across the control circuit. I'd look at the PAC interface install to find a bad splice. I would also consider the possibility of a PAC interface that was defective new.

Perhaps if you go back to BB they will swap in another interface to try to fix this. They charge good money for the installs after all.

It sure was good money! Thanks for the suggestion. I have a feeling it was a bad splice. I'll report back.

You may also find the following useful:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-uGJcS2hNOkx/learn/steering-wheel-control-adapters.html

You may want to suggest to the BB installer that they contact the manufacturer's tech support.

FYI: you can program any button to perform any function. The order they are listed in the instructions is the order the buttons will be programmed. I never use my SCAN-AM/FM button so I programmed it to control the heater/AC fan. Now I can control the temp and the fan from the steering wheel.