Write-Up: HID Conversion

It shouldn't be a problem; halogen lights are roughly 51W and a standard HID kit uses 35W, with the heavy-duty ones being 55W. Go for 35W slim ballast kits from DDMTuning.com where you get a lifetime warranty on bulbs and ballasts, it'll run you about $70 shipped and the service is good so long as you have a spare ballast for when one goes bad(they don't do advance returns).

The only reason why I got rid of the HID's in my Riv way back when was because I got tired of buying replacement ballasts each time they would go out...I replaced them with 80W halogens from Eurolights and didn't have any problems with those either as far as heat in the headlamps goes.


One last tip, gently wipe the HID bulbs down with some rubbing alcohol before installing to make sure there's no oil from accidentally touching the bulb; they'll last longer that way!

i have installed the 6000k the dim and the bright's.
the dims are showing light like two flashlights?
I can not focuse them.
The brights are up in the trees and i or my garage man can not foucse them
when i switch from the dims to the brights it takes a full minute to change and the brights are up in the trees.
Help
firefighter
thank you.
i put them on a 1996 Riviera super charge.

#1) NOT a good idea to install them as High Beams. They take too long to get to full brightness. Then, once you turn them off, the Low beams take a few seconds to get bright again....

#2) It sounds like you have the bulbs installed wrong, or they're the wrong bulbs period. Headlamps like ours require the bulb to be centered. If the HID is bent a little, or cock-eyed in the socket, they WILL shine any which direction. I had to play with mine to get them aimed properly.

If/when you get it right, please please please aim them down, as you will be blinding everybody.

Yeah, pull them out of the high beams. I would keep them as spares in case one of your other ones die. If needed you can adjust the lights with the thing (lack of correct term) by the front of the headlight. It's red with a phillips screw hole (again, technical terms here) if I remember right.

As they've said, never put HID's in your high beams. Make sure you have 9006 bulbs in the lows and that they're fully locked in and not crooked from one tab out of the fixture. I'd recommend building a high-4 relay so your lows stay on with your highs but if you don't know what you're doing with electrical systems it's quite an endeavor.

Probably going to take my HID's out until I get nice new ballasts/bulbs. The one's on it are too flaky, don't want to get a ticket.

define flaky? i put the 12000k brillant blue in my lows and they are bright! funny thing is i offered 13.50 for the kit on ebay with the slim ballast, installed wrong (didnt figure it out till lot later) complained got new ballast and a full refund. got home a month later figured out i had a couple wires in the extension backwards tested all 4 ballast and all where good. i have 2 extra ballast now. just wish i had of went with the 6000k cause i think they show more light but the blue looks great

The drivers side light is unreliable, it flickers and sometimes doesn't come on at all. About 8/10 times it's fine, but it's those 2/10 times when there's a cop sitting over the hill. Did you get 55W or 35W? I was going to grab some 55's despite some people claiming issues with the heat.

35ws and mine did that one time but it was because i had a wire loose. no problems since

I've already checked the wiring before, it's nice and tight.

DO NOT buy the 55W HID's for your low beams. 35W are bright enough.
Which kit did you buy? If you don't install digital ballasts, and just simply plug in to the factory plug without wiring up a relay system, they will flicker like a candle. I had this problem with the very first kit I bought. I've since changed over to "digital" ballasts and haven't had an issue once.

I bought the cheap Xentec digital slim ones. I'm looking into grabbing a nice pair of ballasts, but for now I'm just going to run stock bulbs. Everything is wired correctly; exactly how it should be.

I have the Xentecs as well. They've been in for over 2 years now without an issue. It's just that originally, I ordered the non-digital versions and they flickered like mad. For an extra $10, I got the digitals and they've been great. Just make sure that in the Item Description they say "digital".

ive got the same kit matt! i offered them 13.50 and ended up gettin it free with an extra set of ballast. i also have the relay kit but have not used it. im havin no probs so do i need to use it scott?

It depends if you have the digital ballasts or not. Eventually, they might start flickering on you, or just fail to fire at all. I certainly didn't pay $13.50 though. My kit was $40 with 6000K.

It's pretty cool when they flicker though. They seriously look like a really bright candle. The light moves around and dances on the pavement lol.

I think I payed around $35 for ballasts and bulbs.

Don't know if anybody knows this but hid lights can be had for less than $50 from ddm tuning sometimes even for $30 depending on the sale.. I bought a kit from them about 5 years ago. I ran it on my monte carlo then moved it over to my Riviera once I sol the monte. It is still running strong. I love their products!

This may or may not have already been asked & or answered..
(30+ pages is a lot to go through for a simple Q&A):

Does any know if the HID bulbs are okay to use with VHT "Nite-Shades" black lens paint on the headlights?
OR
Will it melt-off or ruin the paint application?

HID's actually run cooler than a stock headlight bulb. Mine don't get nearly as warm as the stockers did. I don't see a problem with tinting the lenses.

HOWEVER......
Keep in mind that if you spray tint the headlights, they're going to get pelted by sand and road debris. In a matter of weeks, it's going to chip and look like hell IMO. I have a couple of co-workers who tinted their headlights with spray tint. They now look like shit and they wish they hadn't of done it in the first place. Now they're stuck with dealing with it, or replacing both assemblies. Just sayin....

You won't have any issues with melting, but I will say this. Buy QUALITY stuff. The cheap stuff isn't as bright, doesn't last as long, and isn't as reliable. If you want to tint your headlights I would suggest using the peel and stick film. It goes on easier, looks better, and is easier to remove than the spray on stuff. I can't comment for how long it lasts compared to the spray.

Has anyone successfully separated the plastic housing on their headlights?

charlieRobinson wrote:

Has anyone successfully separated the plastic housing on their headlights?

Just stick it in the oven and then gently pry it apart while it's still hot. I assume you're thinking about projectors?

Page 9.

my sky window will not open when i push the opener?

firefighter wrote:

my sky window will not open when i push the opener?

Moderator: please move this to the right thread or create a new thread.

Firefighter: You're really 87?

Your electric sky window won't open. I need more info to help you. The problem could be mechanical or electrical. So tell me:

- How long have you owned the car, what year is it, what model is it, can you post a picture?
- is there any evidence of water intrusion on the headliner inside the car near the "sky window" opening
- is there any corrosion visible on the roof outside the car near the "sky window" opening
- have you ever modified or repaired the wiring, and is there any evidence of that haveing been done previously
- while you have owned the car has the "sky window" ever operated, and when did it stop

AlbertJ