FAQ: Supercharger Noise (Bad Coupler)

Hrm, didn't even think about the cat. I just replaced the wires today. The car did not hesitate on my way up to work today. But another problem arose. When leaving, I started the car up and backed up, and suddenly, I could feel the car shaking pretty badly and I only accelerated in short bursts with my foot on the gas.

I immediately pulled over into another parking space, the tach fluctuating from about 600 rpm to up to around 1500-1600 at idle, and I opened the hood and the supercharger and engine were shaking visibly. I turned the car off, then turned it on another time. Same thing happened. I turned it off and on a third time and the motor started shaking again.

I waited about 30 minutes before trying to start it again, and when I did, it started perfectly fine and though I know I probably should have called a tow truck, I drove all the way 35 miles home with absolutely no problems. It was the strangest thing. Now, I have absolutely no idea what the problem was. Anyone have a clue, or need more info?

Being that you replaced the wires only a day ago, my money is on the wires either not fully connected to a plug or coil, or you crossed a wire. If it's intermittent, they're probably not crossed. Try twisting and pushing each wire boot onto it's plug. Wear gloves and push hard. Check the coil terminals that all connections are good. Twist and push each wire to be sure.

It's also possible you have a bad coil. If you don't solve the problem, and you are sure the wires are not crossed, try checking or replacing the coil packs.

recheck that all the plugs are tight and wires are connected well

Yeah, I already messed with the wires, made sure they were fully in the plug and the coil. That's what I did right before I started it up the final time and it started running good. That was most likely the problem, because it hasn't happened again and I've started it 3 times since last posting on here.

Thanks for the help though, if it happens again, I'll replace the coils. Are OEM coils recommended?

Yes, OEM coils are just fine.

One final question before I let this thread rest. If anyone can give any more words of advice, that'd be great. Btw, I have not replaced my coils.

Went to the mechanic today because my car's still doing its hesitation thing. What it's doing is sort of a combination of things. In one instance cruising at 55-70, I put my foot on the gas about 50% and the tachometer needle started... bouncing up and down, which was reflected in the way the car moved, felt like something wasn't turning over right or something. Very strange.

Also today (I drove about 100 miles at higher speeds), putting my foot on the gas (not all the time) would yeild little response in acceleration, if any at all. I've heard this is a symptom of a clogged cat as well.

So I went to the mechanic today and ask him about it, he tells me that if my cat was clogged, the SES light would show. I'm assuming that's accurate, but if it's different or something with the Riv then that'd be great to know. He also said that it might possibly be the computer being unable to regulate fuel or something correctly to match what kind of pressure I give to the pedal. He also said the fuel pump might be going out.

Knowing very little mechanically about these vehicles, it's hard for me to say "let's do this over this" or whatever, so just wondering if anyone has any more thoughts on this problem. It's not really a question of hesitation anymore... more of just a weird lack of response type of thing.

ZEP, your description of the tach needle swinging wildly really makes me think it's a coil. I''ve read this exact same symptom from a 3800 SC that had a loose coil connection.

You can have coils tested, I believe it's easy with the right tool, shouldn't cost much to do. I would go that route rather than assume the cat is bad. It may throw a code, or it may not, depending on what the problem is. In your case, since your problem seemed to happen all-of-a-sudden, I don't think it's a clogged cat.

Coolness. Thanks.

i had almost the same problem with my GP GT, but it was very intermittent and the tach would jump, the car would hesitate, and eventually cut off at highway speeds and sometimes while coasting to a stop light. but it was my electronic throttle control.

How can you tell if your coupler is going out? The car seems fine at idle and under light accleration but when you bunch it hard you can hear a noise liker gravel and you can feel it as well. Would this be the coupler?

Placed in wrong area please move.

Read through all of this thread - should clear things up!

I read through all of that and it seems the coupler causes noise at idle? When I test drove the car in June I took it to the dealer and they looked it over and said the sc bearings and all were just fine that was less than 500 miles ago. The car does not make a noise at idle. Only when you give it a lot of throttle does it make a louder gravelly noise.

I don't think it's the coupler, but how do you know it's the supercharger? Describe the noise in more detail, and when exactly does it occur? Anything else not right with the car?

I will try to take a video tonight with my camera.

Coil. Coil. Did I say coil? Yes I meant coil.

I feel very very stupid. It is nothing to do with the SC I am pretty sure. Noise is only there when gear is in gear. But I turned the radio down and paid better attention noise is also made when at a stop and wheels get turned only softer. The car runs beatiful in my opinion.

Im assuming you mean when the brakes are applied lightly, whens the last time you checked your rotors for warpage, and or defects like gouges etc?

Also try turning off the motor and disconnecting the accessory belts one, then the other. Your noise might be the alternator (makes a racket when the bearing goes bad), the power steerng pump, the AC compressor or one of the idler pulleys.

However, noise in gear makes me think you have a crapped out motor or tranny mount.

One way to guess that without crawling under the car - get someone else to work with you on this. Open your hood, set park brake, start engine. Step on the brake (hard) and blip the throttle (that is, tap the accelerator pedal to race the engine a little). If the engine moves about in the engine compartment (it should not move much) you probably have a bum mount. I used to know how much movement indicated a bum mount but I don't any more. Maybe an inch or 2. Would any of you that know please chime in?

Albertj

In park or neutural noise is not there but in gear nosie is their. Here is a video of the cars idle. Does the supercharger sound good from what you can hear? Noise is also worse when accelerating. Maybe this is no longer the right topic for this either.