catalytic converter delete?

2nd O2 lets the PCM know the cat isn't functioning, or isn't there. By "deceiving the PCM", all you're doing is making it think the cat is still installed and working.

AA wrote:

2nd O2 lets the PCM know the cat isn't functioning, or isn't there. By "deceiving the PCM", all you're doing is making it think the cat is still installed and working.

Ok. Just wanted to know what it did before I neutralize it. Sounds harmless.

After attaching the emulator to the sensor, where does one stash away the module? Do you just zip tie it to the bottom of the car? Do you protect it with anything? Got pics?!

You would just wire tie it in a convenient place away from the exhaust system. I'm not familiar with series 2 rivs so I don't know where the o2 wire harness runs on your car, but it shouldn't be hard.

when installing headers and the cat delete "race pipe" will it trigger any codes? and if yes how do i prevent/correct this?

yes it will, you will need to plug a o2 emulator into the o2 plug to fool the computer:
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/468-O2-Emulator.aspx

Or have the code turned off via DHP tuner. There is another way to fool the PCM using 2 Spark Plug Non-foulers stacked in the O2 bung, and the O2 installed on top of those.

I know this is an old thread but I figured I'd offer my 2 cents. On the 95 riviera deleting the cat and resonator will not make it louder per say but if the baffles are rotten or loose in the mufflers you'll get a razz when you punch it. Similar to the way the gtp sounds but not spot on. On a 96 to 99 you need to use a cat simulator so that the mil eliminators will work, or just weld a bung into a stright pipe. When using a mil eliminator you need to use a working o2 sensor so that the resistor will make the computer think all is well. It wont effect the performance with the rear o2 defeated but do not mess with the upstream sensor or you'll be doomed to detonation. The popping some people refer to wont be heard unless you are just revving like crazy. The cat does not remove unburnt fuel only converts nox and h2 to water and less harmful levels of co2. The upstream sensor is what deals with extra fuel entering the system thus dealing with the rich condition caused when too much fuel has exited the combustion chamber. Port, polish, larger headers, dual collector for true duals and some flow masters will give you the ultimate in rich powerful exhaust note. This motor is been round for a very long time which is why its so good, they have had lots of time to perfect it. Grand nationals use it and sounds almost like a v8 when done right. Enjoy the info  

Question. After installing my new SP/Cat I went to the recycling place to sell off my old useless cat (split down the side). Apparently it's MD law that you need to be a certified mechanic to recycle them. Anyone know a better option? It's perfectly legal to sell them here just as long as it's not with the recycling centers unless you're a mechanic. The guy said if I had a friend who was one that he could bring it in and sell it without issue. Problem is I don't have such a friend.

matt270avian wrote:

Question. After installing my new SP/Cat I went to the recycling place to sell off my old useless cat (split down the side). Apparently it's MD law that you need to be a certified mechanic to recycle them. Anyone know a better option? It's perfectly legal to sell them here just as long as it's not with the recycling centers unless you're a mechanic. The guy said if I had a friend who was one that he could bring it in and sell it without issue. Problem is I don't have such a friend.

Its not that you have to be a mechanic you just need a license in that field. Mechanic will work, but any automotively oriented like people who scrap cars, car dealers, autoshops, and so on. alternatively you can sell to someone who collects scrap auto parts like cores and wheel and the like. If you find and honest person you will get more money. Best to shop around. Look for the "we buy junk cars" slogan and you cant loose.