Infinity Basslink

Do you think that the Basslink would work fine in the Riviera? I am not looking for the type of bass where you can be heard blocks away. I am mainly interested in sq. I just want something to fill in the lows and give a little rumble. I am worried that it wouldn't sound good with all of the insulation. I don't really want to spend a lot of money, so that is why I am interested in the basslink.


Thanks for the help.

there nice,a buddy use to have it in his old car(99 grand am coupe)

Well my sub is similar , its a powered 200W kenwood ten and i think it has excellent bass response on rap music , and definitely fills in with rock music , though i usually turn it down when i listen to rock.

I assume the inifinty is as good if not better than mine so i think you'll be very satisfied.

I understand the basslink to be a solid product. I just have one suggestion in case you're buying at retail. Crutchfield now has the Alpine PLT-5 for $299, from $599, putting it right next to the cost of the basslink from them. For the same price, I'd go with the PLT-5 just because it's just an awesome design.

For the last time, don't buy off Crutchfield, they sell at full price. Go to amazon. They sell the same stuff, you can buy used or new, for around half the price.

turtleman wrote:

I understand the basslink to be a solid product. I just have one suggestion in case you're buying at retail. Crutchfield now has the Alpine PLT-5 for $299, from $599, putting it right next to the cost of the basslink from them. For the same price, I'd go with the PLT-5 just because it's just an awesome design.

I have never heard of that before. The reviews sound good, but I wonder if it would be any better than the basslink.

screw amazon they can suck one. but from this site

http://www.hifiaudioonline.com/home

whole sale prices

I think it's a great product. Here are my thoughts:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/audio-electronics-f7/aftermarket-speakers-t1275-135.htm

I just bought one for $151.55 on ebay after a 10% off coupon and cash back. Next question is about wiring. Where does everyone suggest getting their wiring from (the cheapest and good quality)? Our setup is a bit unique, so buying a pre-made kit doesn't make the most sense. This is how I am planning on wiring it: 4 gauge from battery to distro block, 8 guage from distro block to amps. Because of the short 4 guage run (less than 2 feet), do I need to instal a fuse on it since the distro block has a fuse for each split?

I would tap into the audio signal at the rear 6x9"s.

You really don't need the distro block if only powering the Basslink. Just run 8 gauge direct to the battery, using an inline fuse holder as close the positive terminal as possible. You want it close too eliminate the possibility of fire - even 2 ft is enough for something to happen in an accident, or if a wire should become detached and short to ground.

I will also have a 4 channel amp and active crossover that will be hooked up. So I plan on running a RCA from the crossover to the basslink. I will just tap into the existing remote turn on wires for the crossover and amp. I found this site for the wiring http://www.knukonceptz.com . Does anyone know of other sites to check out?

I use Knukonceptz 4 ga. capacitor connectors in my system. It's decent product at a good price. You'll still want to use an inline fuse holder near the + terminal of the battery, even with the fused distro block.

AA wrote:

I use Knukonceptz 4 ga. capacitor connectors in my system. It's decent product at a good price. You'll still want to use an inline fuse holder near the + terminal of the battery, even with the fused distro block.

Will do. It is only $7.00, so it is worth it.

My basslink came today. Didn't have much time to set it up, but it sounds pretty good. What should I set my crossover at? I have this for an active crossover http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=82600&i=20603KX3&tp=117.

I would play your system without the sub first. Set high-pass cut-off to the fronts at 150Hz, then play some loud music with prominent bass, and try lowering the cut-off to 120Hz, or 100Hz if you can. If the speakers start to distort, back it off a little.

Set your low-pass cut-off to the Basslink at a slightly lower value than the high-pass. If you set the fronts for 120Hz-up, try setting the Basslink at 80Hz-down. If you set the fronts 100Hz-up, try the Basslink at 60Hz-down. Then set the sub's volume to match the front mids/highs.

Of course, there will be some tweaking to get it right. The most critical area is the crossover area between mid/highs and sub. You want the filters set as low as possible without distortion. Try listening to extreme sounds, and also music you really like. Don't use the radio, only CDs or good quality MP3s. Tuning can take weeks... Good luck!

What should I set the rear speakers at? Before the sub I had the fronts set around 100Hz and the rears around 65 Hz.

The 6x9"s shouldn't be making your bass, that's the sub's job now. If you throw to much at them, they could distort, shifting the sound image to the back. Even higher midbass sounds can make the rears detract from the image.

I would set them about the same or higher as the fronts, but it may not matter that much because they should be playing at a lower level than the fronts (functioning as rear-fill). I've never filtered my rears, I just turn them down if I hear sound coming from behind me.

I don't really hear much sound coming from behind me. I mostly hear the vocals up front. You can't really tell that I have a sub. It seems to blend in pretty well. So far I haven't noticed any rattles or lights dimming with the car shut off. If I want some more midbass (I have the low bass) should I set the crossover point for the sub a little higher?

Try to lower the high-pass cutt-off to the fronts - unless it sounds distorted. Midbass is directional, so should come from the front L&R channels. If your door speakers can't handle it, the other option would be to raise the crossover frequency on the sub. You'll hear more bass coming from the rear, though.

AA wrote:

Try to lower the high-pass cutt-off to the fronts - unless it sounds distorted. Midbass is directional, so should come from the front L&R channels. If your door speakers can't handle it, the other option would be to raise the crossover frequency on the sub. You'll hear more bass coming from the rear, though.

I had the fronts lower, but the passenger side speaker kept breaking the tensil (I think that is what it is called) down where it connects with the speaker wire. I soldered it back together, so it is a tiny but shorter. I don't know if it was defective or not, but I just try to keep the bass away from them so that it doesn't happen again. They sounded great when I had them crossed a little lower. You could feel them move your pant legs a little when certain notes hit.

Oh, in that case, cut off the door speakers higher, or have the tinsel lead repaired. Not a lot of flexibility in that situation.

Do you think one of the tinsels broke because of too much bass?

Went for a drive with it today and now I have a little alternator whine. Everything is grounded at the stock grounding location. Also it seems like it is just coming from the front passenger side. I can't tell if it is coming from the back or not, but it mainly sounds like it is coming out of that speaker. Any tips to fix it?

Yes, most definitely because of too much bass. That's the only reason they brake.

The tinsel shouldn't be cause for alternator wine. It's got to be equipment, signal cables, or ground. It's hard to track down, but maybe this will help:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/audio-electronics-f7/small-bit-of-alternator-whine-t3340.htm

I had a hunch that the RCA for the sub was bad. I took it off and went for a drive and the whine seemed to go away. Where can I get a replacement cable for cheap?

I found a set of decent-looking RCA cables at Target for $20-30. Can you tell if it's the cables or the Basslink itself? Maybe try swapping cables around to see if thinks change?