FAQ: Smaller SC pulley? What Size?

DUDE..haha yeah i gapped them per Intense racings website for autolite104s. i figure if there was too much oil on the filter it wouldve started acting up already. my roomate actually said what you said about the MAF and stock tune. it doesnt bother me too much i was just wondering if that happens sometimes. Never dealt with a forced induction engine before haha. pulls very well though, i was surprised, cant imagine what an actual tune would feel like.

ps i just read your post on this thread about not buying a pretuned pcm, and looking at your mods list, tells me know what youre talking about so....time to find a good tuner around VA. thanks once again

Scott just rebuilt his transmission blindfolded. I would heed to his advice any day.

Exactly charlie lol

highwaywarrior wrote:

ps i just read your post on this thread about not buying a pretuned pcm, and looking at your mods list, tells me know what youre talking about so....time to find a good tuner around VA. thanks once again

Aside from finding yourself a good tuner - it's worth a couple of troubleshooting steps. When you say it runs 'rough' what do you mean - when exactly is it rough? You could have a dirty injector, bad spark plug wire, a number of things. It's also worth disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes forcing the PCM to 'relearn' the engine's operating parameters.

Most critically important - get a good scanner. You NEED to know what's going on if you are toying around with forcing more air through the supercharger. Without scanning you have no idea what it's doing - if it's on the edge of self destruction, or what. I can almost guarantee you that it's running lean as crap right now. (you'll probably see LTFT and STFT parameters at least 15%)

With regular scanning and a solid tune you'll have an engine that can do amazing things.

What I was referring to was the idle in park, it seems more sporatic than before I put on the pulley and new plugs, ive gapped the plugs according to what intense racing, made sure all the boots were connected on the plugs and wires. I just unplugged the battery as well.

It's very possible you damaged a wire when you changed plugs. The 3800 is pretty touchy about having good wires. Sometimes the wires can be a bastard to pull off and they damage in the removal.

Changing the pulley shouldn't really affect the idle. I think you should try this -

at night, with the engine idling, spray (mist) water around on the plug wires. Look for blue lights and/or increased roughness.

Hi guys my riv has 160k miles and the only upgrade it has is an intake. But I want to get a 3" down pipe for it soon. After that sense it's a 96 sc I want to put a 3.2" pulley on it and have a shop help me tune it sense they don't make a tuner for me to tune it for myselft. What are your opinions? Could my car handle it for another 50k miles? What would you guys do to improve performance without spending a bunch of money.

104's, 180 thermo, headers, and other supporting mods before you even think of droppin pulleys

Really? Headers? I heard headers went a big thing for that but I'll take your word for it because headers are my favorite upgrade on a car, so should I just get zzp ones will a Grand Prix headers fit on my car or do I have to mod some things? I have 180, thermostat and 104 spark plugs so headers and downpipes is next

Thanks for the link this is awesome!

You don't absolutely need headers for a 3.4" (3" downpipe can work), but it depends on what your other mods are. 3.2" is a big drop, and headers are probably a good idea if going that small, along with a few other things. Tip: get a scanner before you swap so you can see how much KR you have.

I am running a 3.4" right now with my current mods in my sig and I only see spikes of KR up and around 2.5. Goes there for a second then I can throttle up to WOT and I have 0 KR.

I plan on utilizing the PLOG + Downpipe until it becomes a choke point. Right now, I think my choke is in the intake/exhaust in the engine. Nothing bolt on mods can do to help it anymore. Gotta get that cam!

Quote :

Right now, I think my choke is in the intake/exhaust in the engine. Nothing bolt on mods can do to help it anymore.

Rockers would help here.

AA wrote:

Quote :

Right now, I think my choke is in the intake/exhaust in the engine. Nothing bolt on mods can do to help it anymore.

Rockers would help here.

Going cam for sure. Right now I'm 55% XP and 45% VS

Can't make up my dang mind yet. Probably going XP tho.

Probably move forward with it late spring early summer.

But I've been moving slow with modding the Riv, so who knows.

Right, just saying rockers are a bolt-on that would help intake/exhaust breathing.

Gotcha, I guess I didnt consider rockers as a bolt on mod!

!

hey guys with the mods listed in my sig is it safe to run a 3.4 pulley?, only running 93 octane, my scanner cannot scan for spark knock but supposedly i can read kr using spark advance parameter?

You should be fine. Just find a good scanner first before you drop the pulley size.

I have a nice autel maxi scanner that reads everything besides Kr, is there any way to use the spark advance parameter to measure the spark knock

h20man wrote:

I have a nice autel maxi scanner that reads everything besides Kr, is there any way to use the spark advance parameter to measure the spark knock

It depends if the scanner reads negative for Spark Advance as well. I doubt it does. I suppose that if you see a negative reading, that could be considered Knock Retard? I think that the reading will just go to zero....

You can't accurately calculate KR from spark advance, because your commanded timing is always changing as you drive - per your timing table, not from KR. It's impossible to know for sure when KR is retarding timing, and it's impossible to know how much.

Example - when you are way advanced under load in 4th gear (30º BTDC or more), KR can at most retard 15º of that advance, so you could be cruising up a hill knocking like an SOB and see 20-30º BTDC and think everything's fine. Example #2 - WOT in 1st gear you might see 12º BTDC with no KR at all. This is a programmed value under certain conditions.

During normal driving, you will see anywhere from 10-40º timing advance with or without KR, and unless you memorize the hundred or so values of your timing table, have a wideband 02, and watch RPM at the same time, you won't know if KR is affecting your advance. Or you could get a KR meter.

I couldn't run a 3.4 "safely" until I increased valve lift. If you don't know whether or not you have KR on your 3.6, get a scanner that can tell you before proceeding.

Any cheaper methods of scanning for Kr besides an interceptor gauge? Like a handheld scanner that has this parameter