BFS tables set after ported blower install?

Well when installed to ported blower , i noticed it didn't seem much quicker , in fact it seemed to be almost as slow as stock... so i did some scans and noticed my timing was way low , in single digits sometimes and at wot between 12-13...weak! It didn't make sense as that wasn't what i had it set at when i last tuned it. So i reflashed the stock tables back in , and voila! car pulls very strong. Did some scans and i have some light knock (1-3 degreees through second , none in first ) but the humidity was very high today ( not sure if that helps or hurts ) and i have a plog ready to go on which hopefully will deal with that knock ( along with a fresh fuel filter and AL104 coppers ( well i already did the front , not the back yet). I noticed my plugs were rust colored and slightly corroded...not sure what that means but i'll post more on that later... point is, i thought ported blowers were supposed to reduce kr? And what could i have done that would have made the BFS tables activate?

For your plug analysis

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And what could i have done that would have made the BFS tables activate?

From what I know, the bad fuel spark tables activate after periods of sustained, substantial KR. I've never had the timing table switch on me, so don't know for sure. In your case, it could be from low octane, SC pulley too small... or maybe a bad port job? Who did the work?

Its a zzp ported blower , i doubt the quality of their work was poor. And it happened immediately after the ported blower install , i mean as soon as i started it up again...
However i did use some cheap gas( premium but cheapest in town) before and maybe i just happened to notice it at the same time i got the ported blower on.

Regardless its mostly fine now.

I'm thinking the plugs look like high speed glazing , possibly a result of me using platinum 104s instead of the copper ones. I have the coppers in now , and in a few months we'll see how they hold up , if they do the same i may switch to 103s.

If something like that would happen to my Riv, being a '96, with limited tuning capabilities, I could just remove the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes or so and that should reset the PCM to stock, right?

Chicken wrote:

If something like that would happen to my Riv, being a '96, with limited tuning capabilities, I could just remove the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes or so and that should reset the PCM to stock, right?

Assuming you have not reflashed your pcm , then yeah , but i think its more like 20-30 minutes.

So just an update , i think my problem lied in the guy who "helped" me tune my car a month or two back. I reset the MAF to where it was before as well as my timing tables and it eliminated all knock , my LTFTs are no longer way rich and i think i can probably add some timing too ( i had GTP timing tables with a few degrees taken off here and there before he "tuned "{more like runed} my car) and after the plog install should definitely be able to add a few more degrees ( maybe even pulley down too , but we'll see).
Oh in case you guys were wondering that was the day the pulley came off on me and took out my belts , so i had no idea how it was really running because my car was out of commission for most of the following weeks.

Now i really see why people say its all in the tune with these engines.