battery for the key fob??

I just uninstalled the viper system that was put into my car before I got it finally and so I am back to using my factory key fob (1997). What size battery is supposed to be in there?

you mean the remote?

thread jack:
I lost my only remote I had awhile back and I need another, how much at the stealership and can they program?

[quote="vendetta"]you mean the remote?quote]

yes

AutoZone or the like has the battery.

Stealership on the key fob is correct. I have heard it is in the hundreds of $

DL2032.

Had to crack it open.

TonySmooth89 wrote:

DL2032.

Had to crack it open.

Thanks and did you happen to notice the voltage? is it 3v or no? Mine has 2016 in it for some reason and they seemed a little too thin.

No , but i'm not cracking it open again. lol.

A google search shows its a 3v after all.

I think the remote is like $70-85 and programming is like $50 or so. I don't think it was that terribly pricey. Too much money for us to have two remotes to the Riv though, I have the only one we have.

vendetta wrote:

you mean the remote?

thread jack:
I lost my only remote I had awhile back and I need another, how much at the stealership and can they program?

You can get a remote at the junkyard. I paid $10.00.
Use the search function to locate the thread that shows which vehicles use the same remote. The FCC ID# on the back of the remote identifies which one you will need...


Bert

I bought a remote from originalkeyless.com for like 35 bucks and it was 40 to program it , but i dont think the remote was new , just refurbished. ( just new buttons probably). My brother got one from the dealer for his park ave and it was 100 bucks for everything. every dealer is different of course.

you can program it yourself. i dont remember which pins on the OBD connector to jump, but there is (or was) a write up for it. dont pay someone else to program it for you.

the remotes are a lot cheaper on ebay or via gmpartsdirect.com (one of the things they actually sell pretty reasonable)

You may (actually, if nothing else is wrong you WILL) be able to get it to work w/o dealership/TechII as follows:

0) (meaning before you begin) make a jumper by buying a single-fuse fuseholder with wires coming out at an auto parts store. Basically you put a 2, 3, or 5 amp fuse in it and tin (coat with solder) the ends of the wires to about 1 cm. long. Before you tin the wires, you have to twist 'em so they make points small enough to go into any terminal in the DLC. The DLC is the Data Link Connector, it is the plug under the dash to the left of the steering column. If there's a hole there and no DLC it just means some genius shoved it into the cavity and you ned to remove the panel (screws) to find it.
1) After you make/buy that jumper, get ALL the remotes together, (and optionally put a little paper tag on each one, and grab a pen or pencil) and go to the car. You need all of them because when you program, the car only remembers the ones that were there that session.
2) make sure you have good batteries in the remotes. Hint - the Panic button usually works even if the remote's programmed but maybe out of sync, like if you change the battery and take too long. Transmitter will also get out of sync if you mash the button too much while away from the car. So you can chekc the remotes you already had, usually, by hitting the panic button and see if the horn and lights go off.
3) When you are done messing with the panic buttons, with keys OUT of ignition, using the fused jumper you made, connect terminal 8 to terminal 4 in the DLC... that is, the DLC is trapezoidal, the widest side of the zoid is by terminals 1-8. You may be able to see little numbers molded into the sicker by terminals 1, 8, 9 and 16. ANYWAY - Terminal 8 is the top right as you're looking at it and Terminal 4 is 4 terminals to the left of that (5th from the right or 4th from the left).
4) check again to see you have all the remotes you want to program (up to 4) and then Close The Doors. (the door was open when you did step 3. If not, do it again... )
5) Put the ignition key in the ignition and turn to the ON position. The door locks will cycle.
6) Press and hold, simultaneously, the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter you want to be #1. You have to hold them at least 30 seconds (seems like a $*#@&$ eternity) - after the 30 second delay the doors will lock and unlock. Wha-de-la you are done programming the first fob. Don't touch anything else yet. And whatever you do, DON'T turn off the ignition yet. And if you tagged the remotes and brought along a writing utensil, you may want to write #1 on that little paper tag.
7) to program the second and subsequent fobs, repeat step #6. And leave the ignition on, if you turn it off now the transmitters will become inoperative.
8) when you are done programming transmitters, remove the jumper.
9) NOW if you are all done, turn off the ignition switch.

Hope this helps you mugs.

Albertj

The website in my sig also has the instructions. Here is the link http://rivfaq.bravehost.com/program_remote.htm. You can just use a piece of electrical wire for the jumper.

Got a new FOB on Ebay for like $30, comes with programming instructions. Easy to do, really.