Manual Lights?

Hey everyone, got a 96 Riv here with a bad Light Control Module. This is the module that turns the lights on automatically at night( its a small black plastic box). I have had this replaced three times but it seems after about a month with the new module it begins to cut out and then fries.....

So my question is, is it possible to by-pass this module and wire the lights directly to the manual light switch? This would eliminate the automatic lights but its a much better option for me as these modules cost $600.00 up here in Canada with no used parts around... Any advice would be great.

The previous modules have been installed by GM so I don't think it's an installation issue, but they are not covered under warranty as they tell me they want to do a full wiring inspection but I don't have a million dollars to pay them.

Thanks for your time!

If you post your email address I can email you a .pdf wiring diagram for a 1998. Don't know if it's the same, but should be close if not identical. It doesn't look like there is any easy way to bypass the LCM, but you can use this diagram to find out where your short in the system is.

If you send e-mail addres , I can send wiring diagram for 1995

If you need another LCM after you figure out the reason that these keep frying, try Morad Auto Parts for a good used one. Very cheap and I think they will ship to Canada. www.moradpartscompany.com

Just a wild guess - the dash sensor is "letting the blue smoke out" of the LCM. You look at that wiring yet for splices and such?

Albertj

Albert might be on to something here. The Ambient Light Sensor in the dash has direct input to the LCM. It provides a variable 5v signal and is worth taking a look at. Also, the headlight switch itself is also wired into the LCM via the twilight delay input which is a variable 5v circuit also.
You need to look at these wiring diagrams it will help troubleshoot this problem somewhat easily.
I can email these 4 pages on the lighting system if you want.

Yeah, could be as simple as somebody pulled/replaced the dash and pinched the wires causing an intermitent short. Never really know what you will find on a used car.

You could bypass the LCM but I wouldn't.

The headlight switch is not really set up to handle the lighting current. It is a low current switch that sends a signal to the LCM, which in turn closes the lighting relays. I imagine you could get a bank of relays and mount them on the pass side front shock tower, get +12V from the terminal post nearby, and wire the headlight switch to turn on relays for the parking and headlights - and the high beams - but again, I wouldn't. I don't recall anyone else on this editboard asking about problems like you're having and I think once you find the root cause (instead of replacing LCMs) you'll be fine.

Albertj

Great advise here! I haven't had a chance to look at any of the wiring, etc. myself but those diagrams would be a great help.
Please email to skiingisbetterthansnoboarding@hotmail.com (I came up with this email years ago

Albertj, what do you mean about "Letting the blue smoke out"? I don't understand.


Thanks again!

Phoenix,
albertj just meant that the sensor may be causing the LCM units to fry.
blue smoke = cooked. That's all.
Email sent. Hope the wiring diagrams help.
Rick

Ohh ok that makes sense

Thanks for the diagrams Rick!

If/when I find the solution I'll post an update.

Thanks everyone.

Yeah, sorry about the obscure idiom.

See http://everything2.com/?node_id=70923.

Albertj