FAQ: Shocks & Struts Options

Found these listed on Rock Auto and Shockwarehouse. I think this is the way I'm going to go on the 95 we're working on.

http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/product.cfm/id/869197/name/90007-Monroe-Cadillac-GM-Conversion-Kit

That's the same kit Rick just posted 2 days ago, no? $4 less than Rock Auto. I'd look at these for sure if I had a compressor failure.

Only thing I don't like about those is the lack of height adjustment for towing duties. I'm happy with the MaxAir shocks with a manual fill/release valve. And as it turns out, the air shocks actually deliver decent handling performance.

Adjustment wouldn't concern me, I never put much of anything of any weight in my trunk.

BTW, those little air tube couplers you sent me a while back worked awesomely for installing the manual air set-up. Thanks again for the parts, much appreciated!

I ordered the 90007 setup from O'Reilly today. It came out to 128 plus tax. I'll post up when they're installed and let everyone know how they work out.

Shockwarehouse was $122 and free freight. ?

AA wrote:

BTW, those little air tube couplers you sent me a while back worked awesomely for installing the manual air set-up. Thanks again for the parts, much appreciated!

I already purchased a pair of 1981 Camaro shocks from O'Reilly, they'll work but they're upside down and they won't last this way. Saving 6 bucks wasn't really worth it to me for the ease of warranty service, and not having to fight with them on the refund ")

O'Reilly's are a bunch of idiots and ordered the 90007 shock kit for me. It shows up in their system, they can place the order for it, but they "don't carry it" and it will never arrive. Don't waste your time with these idiots. I ordered them from Shockwarehouse who claimed they were in stock and hasn't returned my phone calls, but when I track my order it says they're back ordered until 6/24. It's getting to be more hassle than it's worth! I would pay 50 bucks more for these if someone would actually be able to get them instead of giving me the run around and tying up my money! Even RockAuto doesn't stock them, so I'm not sure that they're even on the market yet.

brian10962001 wrote:

O'Reilly's are a bunch of idiots and ordered the 90007 shock kit for me. It shows up in their system, they can place the order for it, but they "don't carry it" and it will never arrive. Don't waste your time with these idiots. I ordered them from Shockwarehouse who claimed they were in stock and hasn't returned my phone calls, but when I track my order it says they're back ordered until 6/24. It's getting to be more hassle than it's worth! I would pay 50 bucks more for these if someone would actually be able to get them instead of giving me the run around and tying up my money! Even RockAuto doesn't stock them, so I'm not sure that they're even on the market yet.

if your air compressor/level switch are working, the air ride is not bad at all. And it's not like a Lincoln or Ford with air ride that when it breaks the *parts* are over $500 a side (unless you are mad clever). Wanna cry (or laugh uncontrollably)? Look 'em up on a Ford parts site for say a 2002 Town Car or 1995 Continental.

The Riv's air ride is darn near free, in comparison.

Albertj

Are ACDelco struts any good?? Looks like I can get a pretty good price on those.

depends on what you mean by 'good'

in order of "stiffness" I think the shocks stack up this way, softest to stiffest:

OE GM (no longer available new)
AC Delco
Monroe, Boge (call these "FE2 touring")
KYB, Gabriel (call these "FE3 Sport")

Albertj

That is good to know.

How about ranking as far as durability?

VJD2 wrote:

That is good to know.

How about ranking as far as durability?

Hard to say, I will comment on my experience.

Monroe: I have never driven Monroe-matics or Sensa-Tracs long enough to find out when (how many years/miles) they die.

OE: Same as Monroe, I replaced them 'cause I did not like the ride. My recent experience with high mileage cars is OE shocks run around 100K miles before problems crop up.

Gabriel: I got excellent service from them and would likely still be running them except the casings rusted and started seeping oill, so I put on KYBs. Except for Bilsteins I like the Gabriel ride best.

Boge: Had these on a Volvo 740 and an Audi A6 Qvant Quattro. On the Volvo, I think I replaced 'em at around 130K (had the car to 192K), put KYB GR-2 (Front) and Gas-a-Just (rear) on. On the Audi, I replaced 'em at around 125 K I think, becasue I did not like the ride anymore, put Euro-spec (NOT USA spec, both are available) Bilsteins on.

KYB: So far so good on my Riv, no failure-point estimate.

ACDelco - Don't know, except the one set I had (fronts) were just like the OE struts. I am very happy with the ACDelco rear air shocks. So on the fronts I'd ask an installer.



Albertj

I installed KYB GR2 struts ~100k miles ago. They are still dampening very well (firm ride. no bounce). However, the strut bearings are starting to go. I have a new set of KYB struts & bearings, ready to install soon.

AA wrote:

I installed KYB GR2 struts ~100k miles ago. They are still dampening very well (firm ride. no bounce). However, the strut bearings are starting to go. I have a new set of KYB struts & bearings, ready to install soon.

Consider just replacing the mounts. And maybe the springs.

Albertj

I have the new struts already. And why the springs?

AA wrote:

I have the new struts already. And why the springs?

"Why" is why i said "maybe' - if your ride height is down, new springs will restore it. They will also lessen wear on the strut mounts by bearing more of the load.

So - m a y b e - just maybe you want new springs. Not a done deal.

Albertj

The Gabriels for the '98 Riv are actually Bonneville struts.

Albertj

from: https://rivperformance.editboard.com/brakes-suspension-f6/sway-bar-end-link-broken-in-half-help-t3746.htm

bullseye-shawn wrote:

New shocks are next on my list for the rear. Im going with GR-2's

Wondering how you're going to do GR-2s for the rear.

Theoretically if the GR-2s have metal dust covers you could take air fittings off the stock ones, install them in the metal dust covers, then fit rubber boots on the bottom part (to seal under the dust cover0 and basically *make* air shocks for the back. Is that what you are planning?

If not consider getting OE or Monroe air shocks for the rear from rockAuto.com the price is not bad.

Albertj

Albert thanks for posting. I was not aware of needing to fabricate them to make them work. I want to get away from the factory air ride because it is not working.

And yes i would be selling the extras to you guys on the forums. When that time comes pics will be posted as well as price.

Unless I'm mistaken you'll have to modify anything you use other than the monroe or delco's. Some members have used ford rancho shocks (there's a write-up on it) but that requires modification as well. I wasn't aware they even made gr-2's for the rear... Btw I'm calling dibs on the first set of extras you have. Lol.

bullseye-shawn wrote:

Albert thanks for posting. I was not aware of needing to fabricate them to make them work. I want to get away from the factory air ride because it is not working.

And yes i would be selling the extras to you guys on the forums. When that time comes pics will be posted as well as price.

Hmmm... not so fast.

The RIv's air ride is very simple, really. The car does not depend on the air as much as say a Lincoln. In the Lincoln the air pressure is in the springs (air bags). The Riv uses the air for an assist to the conventional springs to level out the car when you load it. Basically, the air puffs up the shocks.

If you look at earlier discussions about it you'll see people saying that if you primarily drive the Riv for fun and don't carry passengers, you don't really need the air ride and you can put in a pair of regular shocks. I remember someone posting that shox for I think the F-350 of some past year would fit if you rigged the bottom mount. given GM's penchant for re-use, I kinda wonder if there's not a full size GM car shock of one sort or another from the past that would work.

However, if you do carry loads off and on then repairing the air ride is a very good idea, and not expensive if you do it yourself.

Recalling what I've read over the years, what generally happens is the shocks develop leaks, then the compressor runs too much and burns out, then whenever the car has more load in it than just the driver it drags butt. Sometimes it is that people notice the compressor running way way too much and pull the fuse because the sound is annoying.

However, the air lines only leak, to the best of my knowledge, if they get damaged and if you get under the car you can inspect all the lines. If the lines are good, look at the fittings on the shocks. If they are not damaged or missing, you can get the air ride back working with a pair of new shocks and a used compressor. IIRC the compressor comes with level switch if you ask, when buying it used. Lots of GM cars use these compressors (the mountings and switch locations varied somewhat model to model), you can usually get a good used one from Ed Morad (moradpartscompany.com) or another recycler without too much $$ or hassle.

Then about the shocks - the Monroe MA-822s bolt in and fit the OE air lines. A lot of list members are happy with them. I am on my 3rd set of OE air shocks. The first ones I replaced for no good reason, they probably had another 50K miles in them. The second lasted about 100K miles (my car has over 220,000 miles). My third set is going strong. I bought the replacements from Rockauto.com each time, they had the best price on the Delcos and the Delcos came with new mounts (saving $50 at least on the pair). The Monroes run about $60.00 **the pair** and if you are limber you can bolt them on the car without even putting it on a lift or jacking it up (it's a laugh how simple it is). The Delcos run about $100 the pair but the ones listed now are not the ones I bought... ones I bought must have been NOS.

Good luck with your decision, for my money I'd keep the air ride. Once you get it fixed you should get at least 100K out of it if your experience is like mine. However, there also is a kit (also Monroe, p/n 90007) to convert to passive self-adjusting shocks for about $130. If your compressor is shot, maybe that conversion would be the best option.

Albertj

Well the last owner had the air ride disconnected for some reason. He was a dumb a$$. After I rewired it all in cuz while disconnected the connector also dragged the pavement and wore through. Now the air ride does kick in and run just fine but the shocks do not more or pump up at all. I feel the pump is working but the shocks are just about all rusted through. So replacements are deffinatly in order soon. Hopefully the new ones will pump up great for me and the lines arent shot.

If you want to bypass the existing auto leveling control, you can buy a cheap bypass kit and manually control the rear level using a standard air pump. See link: ALC bypass kit