car system advice...........loud.... crisp...sound.. .wanted

How should i go about doing my car system? i want a new radio with ipod cord outlet and front and rear speakers with an amplifier. and i don't want to spend more than 700$ (hopefully). but dont keep that in mind when giving advice, just need fresh ideas.

I also want to be able to use my volume control on my steering wheel after the installation has been made. will this be a problem?

any advice or ideas on what i should do?

The system I pieced together in this thread meets all your requirements, makes me very very happy, and was about $700.

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/audio-electronics-f7/help-me-pick-a-new-head-unit-and-speakers-please-t3812.htm

did your system interfere with the steering wheel controls?

Keep the stock head, invest in a quality 50wrms x 2 class AB amp and spend the rest on a pair of high-end coaxials for the doors. You might be surprised at how that sounds compared to your existing set-up. It won't win competitions, but for daily driving/listening...

If you want iPod capability, you can wire a preamp (EQ or signal processor) that has aux inputs. This will also help tweak your sound a bit. This is what I've done to my car. There's an A/B switch to change from stock head to iPod.

That's my advice: spend most of your money on front speakers, and a little on a small amp. The EQ preamp can be had for $100-200 depending.

AA wrote:

Keep the stock head, invest in a quality 50wrms x 2 class AB amp and spend the rest on a pair of high-end coaxials for the doors. You might be surprised at how that sounds compared to your existing set-up. It won't win competitions, but for daily driving/listening...

I would go ahead and replace the deck to gain ipod controls and outputs for an amp. I also absolutely agree with the advice on the quality amp and speakers as well.

The OEM head has an excellent radio and CD and you do not have to worry about steering wheel controls. I not know how to wire an iPod to it though. The radio type interfaces are not very good. The cassette adapters do not want to come out.

Keep the rears for fill.

Upgrade the doors to high quality components and a small amp that is matched to your component set.

A Basslink is not a bad idea.

This would be a good first step on your budget.

Next steps could be in the order that you want to improve.

Add a 5 channel amp with speaker level inputs and a sub in a box.

Add a head unit with steering wheel interface kit and iPod cable.

The system in my signature was put together in about 4 stages. It would be about $2,000 installed as it is now and it sounds great. I have been considering a 2 DIN head unit with nav.

You can get adapters to retain the steering wheel controls, providing your new head unit is capable. Its an added luxury thats about $60 or more.

I would replace the HU. Its an aged unit. Its nothing special... So why not? If you retain the stock unit you will need a Rockford 360, JL Clean Sweep or a Massive one... Right there your looking at a hefty price, when you could have a good replacement...

For speakers, sky is the limit. I got a thread going on a hot buy, I would start there if your on a budget. If you have more money to burn the Rainbow SLC NG's sound like a winner. They use the famed CAL 25 tweet with some updates...

As for subs... How much bass do you need and what do you listen to?

In any occurance, subs should be the last thing considered. Truth be told most of us will have enough sub fill with a single 10" sub. Much more than that your just going bass heavy- which is the norm...

If you are thinking off something like the Bass Link consider the Cadence ZRS W8. Its a sub, amp and box all in one package measuring 3" tall, 9 1/2" x 14 1/2" It houses an 8" sub and a 200 WRMS amp. Price is comparable to the bass link, but this is smaller. Could fit under a seat possibly

He says he didn't want to spend more than $700. That's why I suggested he keep the stock head. It's one way to have pretty good sound for not so much. It can be used to feed high level inputs, or use a high-to-low converter to feed RCAs. This is the path I took, no complaints. Not sonic perfection, but neither is the cabin of a moving vehicle.

My sub is a single 10" driven by a 300 watt channel of a 5 channel amp. It is plenty of bass. Any more and I would just be taking up trunk space.

millerje18 wrote:

did your system interfere with the steering wheel controls?

not at all. The steering wheel adapter i Mentioned... Did you read that link?

I found that head unit for $250. I highly recommend it. It has USB/iPod, aux input, dedicated sub outs, Bluetooth, great sound, mp3 CDs, etc etc

you may want to check out kijiji, ebay or forums for deals on used components. A used Alpine cda-9835 (or 9833, 9815 or 9813) goes for less than $200 would do provide you with what you want, especially if you don't want a sub. They are rated at 4x26W RMS (4x60). If you do want a small sub, you could keep the rear 6x9s and spend the money you were planning on using for your amp and headunit for a small sub and amp, a PAC controller so you can use your steering wheel controls, and the auxiliary input module for the headunit (ebay).

What are you getting for the $400 in installation charges? Are you getting the steering wheel interface? That sounds high for a deck, one pair of speakers, amp, and parts for the install.

Seriously, Worst Buy shouldnt be considered.

If you have general tools and a desire to learn, I would sign up on an Audio based forum, like mine - www.caraudiocentral.net

Read some posts, take a load off. Then ask questions!

$400 for installation? Tell them to get bent. The radio install is a bit of a SOB in this car but its not terrible. Door speakers shouldnt be hard AT ALL. Running wires to the back should be a breeze. The batts under the seat... lol

Best buy will charge you:
$20 for fit kit
$20 for wiring Harness
$20 for antenna adapater

And god knows what for a mega overpriced wiring kit for the amp. Then all equipment purchased there is at MSRP. Yes you pay full price.

If you want to do it yourself and want a deal on equipment shoot me a PM. BTW I have a multiple slim mount subs available!!!

Door speakers are easy. It's the head unit that's a PITA in this.

sqrivi wrote:

What are you getting for the $400 in installation charges? Are you getting the steering wheel interface? That sounds high for a deck, one pair of speakers, amp, and parts for the install.

yes the intallation included sterring wheel interface and everything. including a 1 year malfunction gaurentee.

I can get the Metra universal steering wheel adapters for $63. If you pick a JCV, Alpine,Sony, Panasonic, pioneer, Calrion or Kenwood deck its $55.

millerje18 wrote:

sqrivi wrote:

What are you getting for the $400 in installation charges? Are you getting the steering wheel interface? That sounds high for a deck, one pair of speakers, amp, and parts for the install.

yes the intallation included sterring wheel interface and everything. including a 1 year malfunction gaurentee.

The $400 seems high, it might be worth checking around to compare prices. In the end if they are qualified and you are comfortable with them doing the work then go for it. There is nothing particularly complicated about the install so I would think they could handle the job. The one year labor warranty scares me though. Every place I have ever worked has had a lifetime warranty on labor.

Here is a compilation of good installation pics:

https://rivperformance.editboard.com/audio-electronics-f7/write-up-installing-double-din-head-unit-in-96-99-riviera-t125.htm

As someone who did not do any of my installs, this does seem high if it is for labor only. If it includes all of the cables (amp, steering wheel control and iPod) it is not a bad deal. Getting the steering wheel controls progammed is very time consuming and some people do not get it right. That is when it is nice to be able to take it back and chill in Best Buys Magnolia room while they get it right.

yea i heard that is the hardest part.

Programming the PAC-SWI-PS is easy, and if they can't get that part right they shouldn't be there. It's taking the dash apart without busting any clips that's the hard part, and don't let anybody touch it if they've never had a Riv's dash apart before, or have a FSM to guide them.

Or our dash removal write up.

What is easy is defined by what you know how to do. Many people do not know how so it ends up not being right. My advice is to check out all of theeh SW controls before you pay. For that matter, check everything out. I had one installer screw up the fade and balance.

thats true.

ill make sure i check everything.

thanks for advice.

btw, i decided to go with a simple pioneer head unit, a 200$ amp, and 2 subs in the trunk. with installtion fees it only comes up to 800$ bucks.

Please post pics when its done.