FAQ: Steering Column Slop, Problems & Replacement

ahh, ok i have to replace body isolator pads from time to time on a school bus, working on cars is no longer hard lmao. i assume they are the same on the aurora? i use to be a good CNC machinist lol wish i had access to all that stuff still... i bored out T/Bs 75mm to 82-84mm and drilled my own rotors

It looks like my update from this morning didn't take...

- FYI, the Permatex Bearing Mount for Worn Parts that I used on the right-hand tilt-pin 2 years ago, on page 9, failed about a month ago. After pulling everything apart again, there was literally nothing left of the material that I had coated the pin with...

- After my careful considerations last time, this time I decided the hell with it: I just smeared a nice blob of JB Weld across the lower side of the ear and over about 1/3 of the end of the pin... There is very little sideways force on that pin, compared to the up & down force that eats away at the metal and the Permatex, and if I need to get back in there for any reason I can still chip the JB away.

(Also, this time I left out the lower 2 screws from the column covers so I can get back in without removing the dash panel...)

So I'm kinda fuzzy can I pull the knuckle and upper column from a 97 aurora to replace a broken knuckle on my 97 riviera?

No surprise, but I've got this same minor play in my 95 and then found this thread

Great and very helpful into... so I'll add this to the "list" of things to look into over the coming weeks/months as I work out the minor bugs.

Thanks for the great write up!

Al

Just purchased a very nice "63 Riv. Has a Goodwrench 350 w/ th400 trans. Also got the 401 Nailhead if anyone is interested. The tilt is FUBAR'ed , wheel goes in all directions (should'a seen me dirve it home, lol). After a day of just trying to disengage it from steering rod, I'm at a loss. Is there a schematic out there on this beast ? Is it similar to other Riv's I see discussed here ? Also, is there a way to repair drivers door switches, drivers window switch doesnt make contact inside of plastic box.
Thanks to everyone for any info on these problems.

Wow....a 63 Riv?post pics immediately.

Post them in the Showroom, please.

laddieboy1 wrote:

Just purchased a very nice "63 Riv. Has a Goodwrench 350 w/ th400 trans. Also got the 401 Nailhead if anyone is interested. The tilt is FUBAR'ed , wheel goes in all directions (should'a seen me dirve it home, lol). After a day of just trying to disengage it from steering rod, I'm at a loss. Is there a schematic out there on this beast ? Is it similar to other Riv's I see discussed here ? Also, is there a way to repair drivers door switches, drivers window switch doesnt make contact inside of plastic box.
Thanks to everyone for any info on these problems.

There isn't a whole lot of 60's Riviera discussion here, we are mainly 90's and some 80's Riv owners. Not trying to send you away, but you should try the ROA (Riviera Owners Assoc) forums on the AACA website. TONS of 60's Riv owners there to help you out. Although they won't think highly of that GM 350 under the hood... Plus you will likely find a buyer for the 401 is you really don't want to keep the orig engine (if it is).

Somewhere back in this thread someone had asked/wondered if any other make/model had the same steering column setup as the Riviera. Well, while I was at a salvage yard, I saw a late 90s Park Avenue and it had a similar setup as ours with the rectangular alloy "box" and side pins. The Park Avenue setup was a bit smaller than ours overall, but definitely of the same general design.

Al

al_roethlisberger wrote:

Somewhere back in this thread someone had asked/wondered if any other make/model had the same steering column setup as the Riviera. Well, while I was at a salvage yard, I saw a late 90s Park Avenue and it had a similar setup as ours with the rectangular alloy "box" and side pins. The Park Avenue setup was a bit smaller than ours overall, but definitely of the same general design.

Al

Thx for the input, but it's definitely not the same. I did a P/N cross reference a while ago (further back in this thread). The Aurora is the ONLY vehicle that shares the upper housing with ours.

al_roethlisberger wrote:

No surprise, but I've got this same minor play in my 95 and then found this thread  

Great and very helpful into... so I'll add this to the "list" of things to look into over the coming weeks/months as I work out the minor bugs.

Thanks for the great write up!

Al

Checked mine out while I was replacing the turn-signal multi-switch today. My slop is on the left side, but very minor. Some people who aren't really sensitive to these sorts of things might not even notice.

However, my pins seemed quite tight and the slop seemed to be on the inside, where the pin seats in the inner bracket. Since the pins weren't backed out, there wasn't really much I could do unless I pulled them apart like AA did and machined a new part. Given mine is pretty minor and the pins seem tight, I'll just leave it alone for the foreseeable future. If it gets worse, I can look into a solution like AA did I guess.

Al

I think you're probably right to let well enough alone - If it ain't broke...

My own column, since I use the tilt every time I get in or out of the car, had the pins walking out of the outer ears as well as wearing out the inner races.

If it doesn't bother you, I'd leave it alone. Inspecting it was a good idea. After fixing mine, I almost never change the wheel position out of fear it will wear the pin holes again!

Yeah, I rarely adjust mine..... which I'm sure helps.

I doubt that simply adjusting the tilt position has caused all the problems we've had. If it's done properly, with one hand on the wheel at 12 or 6 to hold it from smacking against the stop, I don't see why it would wear much at all. Poor design to have it spring loaded so heavily, if you ask me.

BTW, I had to have my whole column replaced a couple years ago, as the aluminum framework itself was all broken up. I got lucky, the dealership quoted a couple hundred bucks to FIX the wheel slop. Once they took it apart and things FELL apart in their hands, they sourced a good used column and ate the cost difference. At 6'4" I need to move the wheel up and down.

I agree, Dave, that adjusting wheel tilt won't cause the problems to the extent that you've seen. I think adjusting the tilt angle does encourage loosening of the pins just enough so that one falls out - further damage is caused from daily use - steering while driving with just one pin in place. The wheel will then tilt up/down even without engaging the release button, wearing out the receiving hole in the casting.

1998 Riv wrote:

I doubt that simply adjusting the tilt position has caused all the problems we've had.  If it's done properly, with one hand on the wheel at 12 or 6 to hold it from smacking against the stop, I don't see why it would wear much at all.  Poor design to have it spring loaded so heavily, if you ask me. 

I certainly agree about poor design, though I think the problem is mainly in the materials they chose - MORONS!  

The spring is the least of the problems.  As I've said elsewhere, it's almost unbelievable that these rectangular columns (which are about TWICE as big as the original round tilt columns from '65 or '66) can be so damned delicate...  Between my Grand Am & Eldorado I've put over a quarter-million miles on 2 'regular' round tilt-columns without anything wearing out or breaking!!

I just want to add that in my own Rivi - with the pins reinstalled and "glued over" with epoxy - my column seems to like me to hold the wheel at about 1:30 and pull down lightly before I pull the tilt lever...

I am currently in the middle of this tear down/repair. I have everything apart but found out that one of my pivot pins is missing. The upper and lower housing are both in good shape. I just need a replacement pin but have been unable to locate a part number or retailer that offers them for my '97 riviera.

Your pin is missing because the holes are enlarged from wear and the pin fell out. It's probably under your dash or seat. A new pin would also be loose and will fall out. I had a machinist measure the holes with gauge cylinders and turn a new set of pins for a tight friction fit. Still good now after a few years. See earlier pages in this thread for the write-up. Good luck.

Thank you for the reply. I did see your post earlier w/ custom pins. Unfortunately the pin is not in the car anywhere. I do not have access to a machinist and I am not to concerned with the pin coming out again as I plan to get rid of the car once drivable. Are stock pin replacements not available, is that my problem?

I'm pretty sure it's sold as a steering column assembly, and likely only used ones now exist. Problem is, replacing the entire assembly is a pretty big job. I may still have my old pins in the garage. I'll check. But the empty hole is enlarged, so the pin will likely fall right out.

thanks again for getting back to me. If you find those pins and are willing to sell them to me that would be awesome! In the mean time i will be actively looking for a machinist that can cut me a replacement pin. just in case

Of course, a self-serve wrecking yard would also be a source...  
But I just can't see that original pin getting out of the car!     

Mine found its way onto the floor mat. Then it's only up to a human with a vacuum hose.

AA wrote:

Mine found its way onto the floor mat. Then it's only up to a human with a vacuum hose.

Those damnable HUmans!!