FAQ: Steering Column Slop, Problems & Replacement

my steering wheel bracket broke just like jacks. I used the brand quik steel to fix it. jb weld did not work for me, it is hard to get a thick layer of it. also jb weld has a lower tensile strength and is not as flexible as quik steel. I have like half an inch of quik steel all around the bracket.

Mine was fine. Thankfully. But i did Larry's mod anyway, just as a preventive measure. A little loctite on the threads and we're good to go.

https://s253.photobucket.com/user/1badriv/media/column_zpsuy1pcuq2.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

I have the 10 cent solution for those who...A) don't plan on keeping the car till both doors fall off, and B) are probably the solo driver who's not likely to ever move the steering wheel up or down again, and C) take the pledge NOT to use the wheel as an aide to swinging inside and outside of the driver side door and D) really, REALLY admire the creative genius of those who've done the correct modification and posted fantastic pictures and descriptions.  A tip of the kepi blanc to you.

It was hot, I'm dealing with the frustration of swapping a motor in a Toyota for my son, and my daily driver is falling into disrepair due to helping others.  So it was late on a Sunday, and I got the dash apart again, breaking the lower plastic housing (Buick soft trim and I don't get along well) since I wasn't aware that there were 3, not 2, 3/16" bolts that I was lucky enough to free with a nutdriver and not a socket, as it probably wouldn't fit (and thanks to the tipster who gave me that...just add that there are THREE bolts on the underside (and THREE on top)).  The last is cleverly hidden by the locking arm release knob...just have to get upside down with a flashlight to find it.  Anyway, it was late and hot, and I did indeed find the right pin dislodged.  Simply pushed it back in by adjusting the wheel.  Popped in easy peasy.  Noted the purple smudge put on by the factory and noted 3 peening marks.  But I just wasn't up for finding the metal brace and tapping a bolt hole in aluminum, and decided to do the zip tie modification.  Found my last zip tie and wrapped it around, snugged it up and cut the excess.  And noting that there was just a smidge of play, went to the coin holder and slipped in a dime.  Wish I found a 2017 Roosevelt dime to put in there to reminds the next owner or junkyard finder or anthropologist who'll probably wonder "WTF is a coin doing there"...assuming WTF survives the Webster or Oxfor dictionary.  Enclosed are, hopefully, pictures of the modification and "what not to do" to plastic lower steering column housings when it's hot and you're frustrated.

Christen wrote:

really, REALLY admire the creative genius of those who've done the correct modification and posted fantastic pictures and descriptions. A tip of the kepi blanc to you.

Likewise, and I admire your thrift. This is very clever! I hope you added a dab of epoxy or RTW to the other side of the coin, or you may find Roosevelt on your floor mat someday (hopefully not).

AA wrote:

Christen wrote:

really, REALLY admire the creative genius of those who've done the correct modification and posted fantastic pictures and descriptions.  A tip of the kepi blanc to you.

Likewise, and I admire your thrift. This is very clever! I hope you added a dab of epoxy or RTW to the other side of the coin, or you may find Roosevelt on your floor mat someday (hopefully not).

After you epoxied that thing in place, you might not have to talk to it again (ever). Were the pins supposed to be removable for some reason?

It appears they pressed the pins into sleeves in the inside bracket using a force fit, letting the pin pivot in the outside bracket hole. In theory, the pins would be held in by friction, but for whatever reason, the interference was not sufficient to keep it there. The pins loosen and fall out.

The pins were designed to be removed with a puller tool that interfaces with a threaded hole in the insert.

So, seeing as my steering wheel is only loose slightly on the left. Would I be able to Hopefully push the pin back in? I'm the only one that uses my car so, I really don't have a concern about it completely falling apart(fingers crossed), I just want it nice and tight like I felt when I was inside that '99 model year at the junkyard! It felt great!!

9ty7rivi wrote:

So, seeing as my steering wheel is only loose slightly on the left. Would I be able to Hopefully push the pin back in? I'm the only one that uses my car so, I really don't have a concern about it completely falling apart(fingers crossed), I just want it nice and tight like I felt when I was inside that '99 model year at the junkyard! It felt great!!

Ha! pull the column on the '99, you'll have a hunk of unobtainium that you can re-sell.

AA wrote:

It appears they pressed the pins into sleeves in the inside bracket using a force fit, letting the pin pivot in the outside bracket hole. In theory, the pins would be held in by friction, but for whatever reason, the interference was not sufficient to keep it there. The pins loosen and fall out.

The pins were designed to be removed with a puller tool that interfaces with a threaded hole in the insert.

...my guess is, the inside bracket is softer metal, and the hole enlarges over time for one or more reasons.

The inside bracket is sleeved, which is typically hardened steel to avoid that issue. But they did show a few thou of wear. The pins were identical, indicating they were made from harder material that did not wear.

AA wrote:

The inside bracket is sleeved, which is typically hardened steel to avoid that issue. But they did show a few thou of wear. The pins were identical, indicating they were made from harder material that did not wear.

I think I get it. Sleeves soft enough to be inserted ni that pot metal, let go after a while. Sigh...

albertj wrote:

9ty7rivi wrote:

So, seeing as my steering wheel is only loose slightly on the left. Would I be able to Hopefully push the pin back in? I'm the only one that uses my car so, I really don't have a concern about it completely falling apart(fingers crossed), I just want it nice and tight like I felt when I was inside that '99 model year at the junkyard! It felt great!!

Ha!  pull the column on the '99, you'll have a hunk of unobtainium that you can re-sell.

I need too make some of my money back! I plan on stripping the majority of these 5 rivieras in my area and posting on EBAY! If I have extra parts and their need here, Just let me know.

Do they have the stainless wheel arches? I was making a deal on some with another lister but he's kinda tied up, which I understand.

Ugh. I have forgotten how to get the dash pad and dash fascia off.

First, remove the black filler panel under the dash ledge. There are 6 or 7 retainers securing it. Use a small phillips screw driver to push up on the center button of each retainer, one click. Then pull the retainer out, repeat for the others. Remove the filler panel.

Pry off each side panel of the dash by opening both car doors. Be careful of the plastic tabs, I believe you pry from the bottom. Remember the passenger side panel is also secured by a single 7mm screw accessible by opening the glove box. Remove a single 7mm screw holding the dash fascia under each panel.

Remove 6 or 7 7mm screws at the top of the fascia towards the back of the dash. Put the wheel in full tilt down. Pull the fascia forward and disconnect the headlight switch and T/C/Odometer switch. Remove the fascia.

The knee bolster is now removable. 2 bolts up top and 2 below. You can now access all the screws holding the clam shell together.

REMEMBER, when re installing the fascia. There are tabs at the top of the fascia and tabs for the upper ledge. The tabs for the fascia go BEHIND the tabs for the upper ledge. The retainer screws go through both tabs. If you reverse this, the holes for the filler panel will not line up. To reinstall the retainers, push on the back stem of the retainer so that the center button extends above the face of the retainer. Insert the retainer and push down on the center button.

Good luck.

LARRY70GS wrote:

First, remove the black filler panel under the dash ledge.  There are 6 or 7 retainers securing it.  Use a small phillips screw driver to push up on the center button of each retainer, one click.  Then pull the retainer out, repeat for the others.  Remove the filler panel.

Pry off each side panel of the dash by opening both car doors.  Be careful of the plastic tabs, I believe you pry from the bottom.  Remember the passenger side panel is also secured by a single 7mm screw accessible by opening the glove box.  Remove a single 7mm screw holding the dash fascia under each panel.

Remove 6 or 7 7mm screws at the top of the fascia towards the back of the dash.  Put the wheel in full tilt down.  Pull the fascia forward and disconnect the headlight switch and T/C/Odometer switch.  Remove the fascia.

The knee bolster is now removable.  2 bolts up top and 2 below.  You can now access all the screws holding the clam shell together.

REMEMBER, when re installing the fascia.  There are tabs at the top of the fascia and tabs for the upper ledge.  The tabs for the fascia go BEHIND the tabs for the upper ledge.  The retainer screws go through both tabs.  If you reverse this, the holes for the filler panel will not line up.  To reinstall the retainers, push on the back stem of the retainer so that the center button extends above the face of the retainer.  Insert the retainer and push down on the center button.

Good luck.

Thank you thank you!


Albertj

You're Welcome Albert, shouldn't take you long, I've done it several times between the dash kit and fixing the wobbly column. Let us know how you make out.

LARRY70GS wrote:

You're Welcome Albert, shouldn't take you long, I've done it several times between the dash kit and fixing the wobbly column.  Let us know how you make out.

I think I'll be OK. I wanted to fix my column, radio and HVAC head but had loaned out my body manual. I remembered it was pretty straightforward but for some reason (fatigue) got partway and could not remember how to get it out so I reassembled and posted. I am much better rested today.

I may install rubber tags, cut from a scrap bike innertube, under the mount points to get rid of an intermittent dash squeak, behind those screws/nuts, while I am in there. That way I am not tempted to tighten the screws down to the point of mount failure...

Albertj

About the steering column tilt pins loosening:  there is a source of slightly oversize pins you can install. I am having these installed:

http://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/gm-buick-cadillac-chevrolet-oldsmobile-pontiac/pin06-pivot-pins.php

I *may* also apply the fix where you install a flat piece of metal over the pivot pin to hold it in place. We'll see.  I have to pull the dash off to replace the radio and fix a bulb out in the climate control.  I also have to go in the drivers' door and install a replacement keeper on the end of the lock rod.

Thing I am grumbling to myself  about is the unobtainium plastic parts are starting to embrittle.

Albertj

Albert, got a line on those keepers? Last time I had my car painted, I guess the body guys thought they were optional parts. Lit them up about that.

The lock rod ends are still available from GM or as Dorman HELP kits. Parts guy can look them up. ut the parts guy at my GM dealer sent me to (gasp) auto-zone to get Dorman HELP kit 75450.   I *think* it has the right one in there somewhere. I was told that the lock rod ends on GM cars are the same by shape and color (GM saving money by having similar hidden/hard parts, this makes sense) and the one I was missing was either white or green.  This Dorman kit has black, yellow and white ones.  

I think the GM P/N for the proper end clip might be 20567650 16627215 (comes with the lock, actually) or  16633853 on my 1998 and as far as I can tell the parts list says they are yellow.   I would go by the P/Ns.

I just recently pulled the steering wheel from a 99' rivi. Would it be a direct bolt on or will I be looking at a headache for my swap?

9ty7rivi wrote:

I just recently pulled the steering wheel from a 99' rivi. Would it be a direct bolt on or will I be looking at a headache for my swap?

I don'[t know for sure, but it should bolt on.

For the rest of you, that wheel was used in a bunch of Buicks of that era including the Skylark, however the different 'versions' had different part numbers but only really differed as to what color they were painted, whether they had leather grips sewn on, horn pads, and switch pack (radio/HVAC)

albertj wrote:

9ty7rivi wrote:

I just recently pulled the steering wheel from a 99' rivi. Would it be a direct bolt on or will I be looking at a headache for my swap?

I don'[t know for sure, but it should bolt on.

For the rest of you, that wheel was used in a bunch of Buicks of that era including the Skylark, however the different 'versions' had different part numbers but only really differed as to what color they were painted, whether they had leather grips sewn on, horn pads, and switch pack (radio/HVAC)

Thanks for the response. I'm just waiting on my mechanic for a quote or i'll be attempting this myself...

An update to my 06 Jun 17 post about a "10 cent repair" that I used by slipping a dime behind the zip tie and in front of the right side pin that tends to wobble and fall out.

Since I had to disassemble the dash yet again, this time for actuator repair on the HVAC system, I was about to put the few final screws back in the plastic fascia when I heard a small "thunk" and found a dime in the footwell. All the action of raising and lowering the steering wheel numerous times seems to have worked the dime loose, but not the zip tie. I decided to double my investment by replacing the dime with a nickle, thereby not only pocketing a cool 50% Return on Investment (or is it a 100%...no, wait, probably 50% ROI) and taking up a bit more slack in the zip tie since the nickle is the thickest common coin we use among pocket change. The cherry on the topping was the addition of a piece of duct tape to cover the nickle and perhaps serves as a belt and suspender field expedient to keep the pin in place and the car humming until I give it to my kid and...no, I'll keep the Buick. He can have the '94 BMW. More his style anyway.

Just wanted to let people know this does seem to be modestly viable, but there sure are a lot of opitions for the learned McGyver's who can also offer a more and better fix that should last a lifetime. Call this the lazyman's solution to a small problem. Time better spent on the upcoming "replace the rear valve cover/lower intake manifold gasket". Meaning Supercharger gets pulled this weekend. Always something.

Christen