Low oilpressure, Oil pickup Stalactite

I have a electric oil pressure gauge and oil temp gauge on order. It will hopefully be here soon. I ordered and extra sender so I can mount one before and after remote filter to find out how much pressure drops across it and determine if stock oil pressure switch is before or after filter. I won't worry about second sender or temp till after car is healthy.

Excellent idea, and look forward to seeing your results.

Its a car part now wrote:

I have a electric oil pressure gauge and oil temp gauge on order. It will hopefully be here soon. I ordered and extra sender so I can mount one before and after remote filter to find out how much pressure drops across it and determine if stock oil pressure switch is before or after filter. I won't worry about second sender or temp till after car is healthy.

Awesome. Hey if you don't mind, it would be great if you did a detailed writeup on installing the oil gauge. I'd love to do one on mine, but have yet to find a writeup for the series two that I'm comfortable following.

I can do that. I was going to do a quick install of the pressure gauge and then redo it later with hidden wires and an a-pillar pod when I put in the Temp Gauge.

Its a car part now wrote:

I can do that. I was going to do a quick install of the pressure gauge and then redo it later with hidden wires and an a-pillar pod when I put in the Temp Gauge.

That'd be awesome. Thanks.

I'd be happy if I could just replace the stock sender with an 8 or 10 pound switch... Anyone ever heard of an adjustable oil sender for GM/Buick?

Any adjustable pressure switch would work if normally closed, the switch grounds the connection till pressure is above 2psi. A adj. normally closed hobbs switch would work. They sell them to turn on extra injectors, water injection and similar. Stock Switch is 1/4'' npt so thread adapter would be pretty easy to find. Jegs sells a normally open 15psi switch as a nitrous fuel safety, the logic would be revered, so a normally closed relay would need to be hooked to factory wiring, and the switch would turn on the relay at 15psi. When the relay turned on the light would go off.

I would rather have the gauge so I can tell if the pressure starts to fall before it gets to low and I have to pull over immediately. So I can get off next exit on interstate for example, rather then light coming on 1/2 way between without warning.

Edelbrock makes a 3-25psi adj. logic is still reversed. I have read on water injection sites that Napa sells different ratings of Hobbs switches they may have a 10psi normally closed, I have never checked it out though. Most of the time they need normally open, normally closed may be harder to find.

Great information! Just learning the term "Hobbs switch" is helpful... I think Hobbs, I think Hobbs (hour)meter.

I wouldn't mind a gauge, either, but I'm not willing to chop up the interior to do it...

The only term Hobbs Meter that I am aware of is a Hobbs Hourmeter. Used exclusively around the world.
Generally don't have to mention anything other than a Hobbs Meter to someone and they know what you are referring to. (HourMeter)
I'm not sure what you are referring to now, or what other meters that the Hobbs co. makes.
Could you please bring me up to speed.
Thank You.

Rickw wrote:

The only term Hobbs Meter that I am aware of is a Hobbs Hourmeter. Used exclusively around the world.
Generally don't have to mention anything other than a Hobbs Meter to someone and they know what you are referring to. (HourMeter)
I'm not sure what you are referring to now, or what other meters that the Hobbs co. makes.
Could you please bring me up to speed.
Thank You.

I basically said what you did, that Hobbs usually connotes an hour meter.

But what he just taught us is that Hobbs switch is a term for the kind of pressure switch that an oil-pressure idiot-light uses... Thus, googling for a normally-closed Hobbs switch, either of a better pressure value than the ridiculous 2 PSI that the factory used, or of an adjustable version, is the way to go for someone like me who doesn't want to add a gauge to the cockpit, but wants the oil pressure light to come on to actually warn of low pressure, NOT to tell me that the motor just burned up...

Did you find anything.?????

Rickw wrote:

Did you find anything.?????

I got a lot of hits, but I haven't sifted through them yet.

I have the oil gauge on temporary. (wiring is not well routed, and gauge is clamped to dashboard by a bar clamp cushioned with old sway bar bushing.) I have 50psi @ idle, raises to 60 if I rev it a little. I'll drive it and see if the pressure starts dropping from paper restriction on pickup.

Sounds good... These gerotor-type oil pumps are evidently a lot better than the old Buick plain gear-type pumps.

50 psi at idle is very good. Better / Higher than I thought it would be.
Is that with engine cold or warm.?

It was just under 50psi when I turned it on, It went up to slightly after a few minutes( I thought pressure went down when it warmed up?) It was a faster then normal idle, I only have every other bolt in the pan, so there may be a vacuum leak.

I Drove it around town about 25mph for about 2 miles and had it on highway about 1/2mile(length of town). Pressure on highway was right at 60psi, I assume that must be relief valve setting. I spotted the gauge start dropping a few blocks later. It bounced between 35 and 45psi while I drove it about 3 blocks home. The last block it fell to 20psi, last 200feet to drive way it fell to 5psi. I had it parked and off before light came on.

I'm going to drop the pan and check the pickup again.

It takes quite a while for the oil to get hot.

I just found it odd it went up at all.

I dropped the oil pan to clean it again, found a lot of paper. I guess that 1/2 mile on highway knocked alot loose. Since the pressure dropped almost right after, and the short drive seemed to cause more paper to fall into pan then idling for an hour.

All I can say is where the hell is all this paper coming from and when is it going to end.
You must be frustrated to say the least after having the pan down countless times now.
But at least you can monitor the pressure now and see when it needs to come down for another cleaning.
I hope you don't have too much longer to go.

I'd be fed up by now and find myself a car version of a bypass machine and filter the oil that way. Just let the car run and rev it until most of the paper is filtered out in the bypass machine. I'm sure you could find a cheap one at a bankrupt hospital auction.

robotennis61 wrote:

robotennis61 wrote:

come to think of it,you can for around a $100 or so ,have your engine flushed. its hooked up to a pump that pumps engine safe solvent through the motor. my guess your engine is a prime candidate for this service. if you add all the $ your going to spend on oil changes and what not, you're better off having this service done.

Yeah, but it'd be much more fun and stick to the DIY thing if he just acquired one from the hospital.

I'd have sprung for what you're talking about long ago if I was him. I'm just not patient enough.

i guess? honestly though,from someone who makes more than his share of mistakes? take it to a pro at this point.all the $ invested and time? man i would have shot the car i think,by now! let the scumbags whe put the paper towels in the engine ITFP hook it to the machine and get all that crud out?

I thought about putting an external pump inline with the remote filter. But it would still clog at the inlet. I have had the drain plug clog a few times just draining it. There would be to much volume of fluid to just pump from external tank, a 5 gallon bucket would only last few minutes.

It seems to not make it through the pump screen, since the cut open filter and the remote mount were clean. This makes it seem to just be washing down from the lifter valley, so the valve train, bearing and oil galleries should be paper free still. I can not see there being that much more, based on amount already pulled out. Are the Lim or Uim gaskets reusable? I may have to pull the manifold off to clean the valley if this keeps up.

The paper seems to flush faster driving it then letting it idle. Since I won't let it run unless I am watching the gauges, it should be quickest to do laps around block till pressure starts to drop below 50psi. Then park it in drive way to drop pan to clean.